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Camel_89Si

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Working with a local stereo shop to do an install on my ex-l coupe. Without going into too much detail, I plan to do a five channel amp, components for the doors, replace the rears, remove factory sub and then add a sub in an enclosure in the trunk. Shop seems pretty competent on how to do the install on the Accord, bypassing the factory amp, disconnecting the ANC, etc..... Factory head unit will stay. Is there anything else I need to make sure of before I proceed?

Also, they want about an extra $250 to add sound deadening to the doors and rear deck.. I am sure it's worth it, right? Any thoughts?

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The sound deadening is absolutely worth it. I don't have much regard for the HU. I know it's hard to replace b/c of the iMid, but all of the HUs on all generations are so mid-range EQ'ed, "premium" or not. I've read posts from people who have replaced the HU without losing iMid. Do a search.
 
Just make sure that they bypass the OEM amp and tap onto the OEM signal wires for the signal since its a solid 3.0v of clean unfiltered signal. All the installer needs to do is solder the RCA's onto the OEM signal wires coming from between the H/U and the OEM amp. No LOC or other adapter is needed.
 
Sound deadening is an absolute MUST to do. Your front doors will have much clearer sound and the rear deck will rattle immediately. Check some of the threads to ensure you minimize/eliminate rattle from the rear deck. You'll need to deaden then use dampening material because I've had the most rattle come from the deck hitting the rear window.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Excellent points. Thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure since I know these cars are a lot more complex than older ones (my last car was a 98 Prelude, easy breezy install..) and that's pretty much how they explained the install to me. And I'll definitely go with the sound deadening material while they're in there!

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
The sound deadening is absolutely worth it. I don't have much regard for the HU. I know it's hard to replace b/c of the iMid, but all of the HUs on all generations are so mid-range EQ'ed, "premium" or not. I've read posts from people who have replaced the HU without losing iMid. Do a search.
This is something I may consider down the road, but the cost of the speakers, amp, and install is already so high, I definitely can't do it all at once! Unless I take out a second mortgage perhaps.. Hmm.... Lol jk!!

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
So I talked with the stereo shop and now the guy says that since I'm retaining the factory HU, I need to get a JL Audio Fix 86 sound processor. Anyone have any experience using one of these? Worth the extra cost?

Never mind, went back and saw that Lashlee already answered thus question.... My bad!
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Just make sure that they bypass the OEM amp and tap onto the OEM signal wires for the signal since its a solid 3.0v of clean unfiltered signal. All the installer needs to do is solder the RCA's onto the OEM signal wires coming from between the H/U and the OEM amp. No LOC or other adapter is needed.
This is what the installer replied with when I told him I didn't think the Fix86 was necessary.... Any thoughts?

"Tommy

* * * *my concert or how many output come from the OEM dec because most new car sound system have a digital signal that come from the OEM dec and if there *is a signal that we can use *it's only two channels *we need to know. what type car *you have? *year make model style type of Deck it has *


thanks"



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I can agree that in some cases, there is a digital signal that goes from the H/U to the OEM amp (Audi, BMW, Bose, etc...) but the Accord does not. It has all five channels of low level signal in the harness from the H/U to the OEM amp. I've used that signal as well as many others without any issues. If you use all five channels you'll keep front/rear fade as well as the OEM sub level control from the radio.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I can agree that in some cases, there is a digital signal that goes from the H/U to the OEM amp (Audi, BMW, Bose, etc...) but the Accord does not. It has all five channels of low level signal in the harness from the H/U to the OEM amp. I've used that signal as well as many others without any issues. If you use all five channels you'll keep front/rear fade as well as the OEM sub level control from the radio.
Thanks man, you've been very helpful! I haven't installed a stereo since my 98 Prelude, and needless to say these new cars are a bit different. I'm spending quite a bit of coin on this stereo so obviously I don't want any headaches! But I am working with two different installers, the same company but different locations. One had made mention of the Fix86 and it threw me off.. The other guy did not, he seems to be more knowledgeable of our specific vehicle and I'll bring this up and see what he says. I'll probably go with him.. Thanks again for your info!

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You're welcome. As a past installer I can tell you that sometimes you can get caught off guard by the OEM integration pieces. If either installer has any questions feel free to contact me and I'll give them the info I have from completing my install.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
You're welcome. As a past installer I can tell you that sometimes you can get caught off guard by the OEM integration pieces. If either installer has any questions feel free to contact me and I'll give them the info I have from completing my install.
Thanks man, I am off today so I'm about to head down there now to clarify everything that they're doing. I aim to get everything installed first week of January, can't wait lol

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
I can agree that in some cases, there is a digital signal that goes from the H/U to the OEM amp (Audi, BMW, Bose, etc...) but the Accord does not. It has all five channels of low level signal in the harness from the H/U to the OEM amp. I've used that signal as well as many others without any issues. If you use all five channels you'll keep front/rear fade as well as the OEM sub level control from the radio.
Alright man, I think I just have two more questions and I should be done, lol.

So I have a 2015 v6 manual coupe Ex-L with navigation..

All of the car's features will work if I pull the signal before the amp, correct? Turn by turn navigation, handsfree link, Bluetooth, etc?? If I'm not mistaken I'm pretty sure all of that is done in the head unit...

Also, not sure if you know for my specific year, but I've searched and I'm seeing some conflicting reports on unhooking the ANC module. All the shop needs to do to disable the ANC is to unhook the ANC module that's up under the dash, right?? The shop thinks they have to snip the wires to the microphones in the headliner, but I told them I was pretty sure they just had to unplug the module itself and they don't have to snip the wiring.. I've read that this affects the Bluetooth on some cars, but if I recall correctly on the 2015 the Bluetooth is in the head unit...

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Yes, just have them disconnect the cable and everything works as expected, hands-free and all. Once the amp is out of the equation it's irrelevant if the ANC is still connected.

I recently just disconnected it and it made no difference because it was already no longer feeding the amp.

You can always do that on your own prior to any other work. It really is very simple to do. Remove the center console trims to reveal the 2 Phillips screws to remove the storage compartment and it's right there.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Yes, just have them disconnect the cable and everything works as expected, hands-free and all. Once the amp is out of the equation it's irrelevant if the ANC is still connected.

I recently just disconnected it and it made no difference because it was already no longer feeding the amp.

You can always do that on your own prior to any other work. It really is very simple to do. Remove the center console trims to reveal the 2 Phillips screws to remove the storage compartment and it's right there.
Awesome, so it sounds like all the navigation controls and everything else is done in the head unit. That's awesome. I'll let them know about the ANC as well. Thanks man

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Yes, you're correct, all of the OEM functions will work. I still use the OEM BT for phone and HFL. All of that is in the H/U..

I would recommend unhooking the ANC at the brain under the radio, just like you've researched. It's the easiest to do and easiest to return to normal if you ever desired.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
That's great to know, thanks! Speaking with the manager at the other shop, (not the guy with that ridiculous reply from before), he said they would test everything out before they tried to sell me anything like the Fix86. I like the sound of that other than basically him saying "you have to have it". It is good to have input from here as well, so I don't put too much trust into them and end up purchasing something I don't need. I may have all this installed this coming Monday, if time allows, and I'm beyond excited to get rid of this stock stereo!

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