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2Monkeys_Ox_Snake_Dog

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just installed a set of Advanced Wheel Locks on my 2024 Accord Hyrid. The dealer gave me a free set of the McGard wheel locks when I bought the car back in April.

When I removed the McGard lugs, I found out that they were torqued to 220-230 ft-lb an unknown amount, but was above 80 ft-lb. The other regular lugs were torqued to 80 ft-lb (I presume from the factory).

EDIT: LARRY70GS brought to my attention that breakaway torque isn't a good way to determine the original amount that the wheel locks were tightened to.
 
#4 ·
2Monkeys_Ox_Snake_Dog said:
Donut Media test:

Advanced Wheel Locks' rebuttal:
Image
Click to expand...
Some head scratching here...

donut media says the one they tested isn't for a Miata because the kit they got was for 5x120. They go on to NOT tell us viewers which kit they got, what vehicle they were using, and what wheels/lug nuts were using as well. The video shows what looks to be a BMW center cap but BMW Wheel Lock /4-pack only lists a kit for "BMW with bolt pattern 5x112" (not 5x120). The drilling/unscrewing they did looked effective but the prying looked like it damaged the wheel.

OTOH, the rimgard website Products does NOT list Mazda as a supported manufacturer at all and the lowest price (as of today) of any of the kits is $295.00. I also checked a few of the kits and I don't see any that include lug nuts and as far as I can tell, the rimgard covers don't ever make contact with the bottom of the wheel lug nut holes (so I don't see how ball seat vs conical seat is even relevant to the discussion).
 
#5 ·
2Monkeys_Ox_Snake_Dog said:
I just installed a set of Advanced Wheel Locks on my 2024 Accord Hyrid. The dealer gave me a free set of the McGard wheel locks when I bought the car back in April.

When I removed the McGard lugs, I found out that they were torqued to 220-230 ft-lb! The other regular lugs were torqued to 80 ft-lb (I presume from the factory).
Click to expand...
220-230 ft-lbs? Yikes! I hope that didn’t damage the rotors/hub flange.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I had my torque wrench set to CCW at 75 ft-lb at first then tried to loosen the factory lugs. Then I upped it by 1 ft-lb at a time until I got to 80 ft-lb. That's when I was able to loosen the factory lugs on each wheel at 80 ft-lb (without a click) and re-tighten them to 80 ft-lb (with a click), confirming that Honda did mount them to spec.

Then I moved onto the McGard lugs. I upped the torque by 5 ft-lb each time until I was able to loosen the wheel lock lugs without getting a click on the torque wrench . I think 1 was 220 ft-lb, 2 were 230 ft-lb and the last one may have been higher. When loosening, if you get a click, it means the fastener is on tighter than what the torque wrench is set to, so you have to gradually up the torque setting until you can loosen without getting a click.

I apologize if I'm not explaining it properly.
 
#9 ·
Breakaway torque is not a good indication of what the fastener was originally torqued to. While I am sure they were over torqued, I am pretty sure that 220 ft. lbs. would have sheared the lug right off. Mine were too tight as well, but I corrected it as you did. I used my impact wrench to loosen them, and I could tell by the amount of time that it took to loosen that they were on too tight. Apparently the factory isn't very careful with them. They probably zip them on with an air gun.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
LARRY70GS said:
Breakaway torque is not a good indication of what the fastener was originally torqued to. While I am sure they were over torqued, I am pretty sure that 220 ft. lbs. would have sheared the lug right off. Mine were too tight as well, but I corrected it as you did. I used my impact wrench to loosen them, and I could tell by the amount of time that it took to loosen that they were on too tight. Apparently the factory isn't very careful with them. They probably zip them on with an air gun.
Click to expand...
Perhaps because most of the torque went into overcoming the friction and not the actual original torque amount then? However, I used the same method on the factory lugs. After loosening them using 80 ft-lb set on the torque wrench, I just flipped it CW from CCW to re-tighten to 80 ft-lb.
 
#11 ·
2Monkeys_Ox_Snake_Dog said:
Perhaps because most of the torque went into overcoming the friction and not the actual original torque amount then?
Click to expand...
Exactly. And it wasn't the factory that put them on (my mistake). It was the Dealer, and I'm sure they don't use a torque wrench:)
 
#12 ·
I just ordered a set of these but have never owned a torque wrench. Any advice for what specs of torque wrench to buy? It will be used sparingly.

Also, per a youtube video the inside of the key can get stripped if you're not careful. So I'll be swapping them out before any tire work in case the tire shop is sloppy.
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
LARRY70GS said:
Breakaway torque is not a good indication of what the fastener was originally torqued to. While I am sure they were over torqued, I am pretty sure that 220 ft. lbs. would have sheared the lug right off. Mine were too tight as well, but I corrected it as you did. I used my impact wrench to loosen them, and I could tell by the amount of time that it took to loosen that they were on too tight. Apparently the factory isn't very careful with them. They probably zip them on with an air gun.
Click to expand...
BUT Breakaway torque is always LOWER than the tightening torque. So if it took 230 ft lbs to LOOSEN, then holy crap they were on there tight. Breakaway torque is generally 15-30% LOWER than tightening torque. Too bad the OP wasn't using a digital torque gauge to find out what the loosening torque was.
 
#15 ·
i see lug nuts are 19mm. the 19 mm socket i have feels slightly loose (old craftsman), is there a recommended brand which is better for lug nuts? (i already have a universal lug nut wrench for getting them off, but will use torque wrench to tighten)

Image



also, can anyone tell is this socket wrench is 3/8" or 1/2"? seems to be in between

Image
 
#16 ·
greg_atlanta said:
i see lug nuts are 19mm. the 19 mm socket i have feels slightly loose (old craftsman), is there a recommended brand which is better for lug nuts? (i already have a universal lug nut wrench for getting them off, but will use torque wrench to tighten)

View attachment 564802


also, can anyone tell is this socket wrench is 3/8" or 1/2"? seems to be in between

View attachment 564801
Click to expand...
That's gotta be 1/2 inch, I mean look at the picture, it's way past 3/8 and is like 1/64th away from 1/2
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
greg_atlanta said:
a friend suggested harbor freight on the lower end for a torque wrench (store near me but never been). anything wrong with this one?

Click to expand...
Honestly, I'd buy a "beam type" torque wrench for doing lugnuts. Something like this one (this isn't an endorsement, just showing the style of wrench):

www.amazon.com

Neiko 03727A 1/4-Inch-Drive Beam Torque Wrench, SAE and MM Bicycle and Automotive Wrench, Reads in 0–80 Inches/Pounds and 0–9 Newton/Meter Increments - Amazon.com

Neiko 03727A 1/4-Inch-Drive Beam Torque Wrench, SAE and MM Bicycle and Automotive Wrench, Reads in 0–80 Inches/Pounds and 0–9 Newton/Meter Increments - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

The click type wrenches can and do go out of calibration. Since you are presumably using this every once in a while, I'd stick with one that you can store without worrying about it going out of cal.
 
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