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Nosteezechris

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So I have a 2015 Honda Accord Ex, and I bought the popular aftermarket tail lights.
Recently they started giving me an issue.
When I have my lights on AUTO , and I hit my brakes ..my trunk lights don’t come on. But when I have my lighting on ON then they come on
But when I hit the brakes they don’t illuminate more to signal my braking , only my inside brake light located inside the car.
If anyone has had any similar issues they could be helpful
Thanks !
 
I agree! Put the OEM lights.


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Aftermarket lights are garbage. As you've found out. I have yet to come across ant that actually meet requisite standards. Get your $ back and reinstall OEM.
 
Did you switch from incandescent to LEDs? LEDs consume a lot less energy = they are a lot smaller resistance in the electrical circuit, which throws off many things and generally confuse and upset the car computer and cause weird things like that. If the wiring checks out, next thing you can try is to make up for the difference in resistance. That's something LED aftermarket manufacturers conveniently forget to tell the customers.
 
So I have a 2015 Honda Accord Ex, and I bought the popular aftermarket tail lights.
Recently they started giving me an issue.
When I have my lights on AUTO , and I hit my brakes ..my trunk lights don’t come on. But when I have my lighting on ON then they come on
But when I hit the brakes they don’t illuminate more to signal my braking , only my inside brake light located inside the car.
If anyone has had any similar issues they could be helpful
Thanks !
I have same issue. Did you fix yet?
 
I've been researching this issue with LED's causing tail light and brake light issues.
The lights will operate differently when headlights are on than when they are off.
As mentioned by the ONLY ONE person that was nice enough to at least attempt to answer the question.
The issue falls under the category of the fact that LED bulbs do not require nearly as much voltage as a normal filament bulb to operate..
The electronics of these vehicles contain sensors and modules that are sensitive to voltage.
There is a way to remedy the issue by grounding the proper wire or splicing in a component that some LED upgrade kits will come with.
I do not have all the details at this time, I am still researching the exact proper fix for the issue with my 6th gen Accord coupe that I am currently rebuilding for my youngest.
There is some, (but very little) info on the subject. I am finding that I have to dig a little to find the proper answer and just haven't touched base with the right person or technician as of yet.

THAT BEING SAID.
I WOULD LIKE TO SAY TO THE OTHERS THAT 'BOTHERED' TO COMMENT ON THIS SUBJECT......

Half of you jokers call yourself "enthusiasts". What a JOKE!!
Someone comes on and has a legitimate issue and all most can say is, change back to OEM.😥😭
in other words, you're all saying "just give up".
Are there no problem solvers left in the world anymore!!??
Bunch of MORONS!!!!
If you don't have any other input, than your boo hoo type, "just give up" strategy.
Then you are not true car people.
So just make your lease payments and keep your worthless "give and go back to stock" opinions to yourselves!!!
I just had to say this due to the fact world seems to be over come with a bunch of dumba** quitters now a days and it is TRULY SAD!!!

RANT OVER!!
 
I've been researching this issue with LED's causing tail light and brake light issues.
The lights will operate differently when headlights are on than when they are off.
As mentioned by the ONLY ONE person that was nice enough to at least attempt to answer the question.
The issue falls under the category of the fact that LED bulbs do not require nearly as much voltage as a normal filament bulb to operate..
The electronics of these vehicles contain sensors and modules that are sensitive to voltage.
There is a way to remedy the issue by grounding the proper wire or splicing in a component that some LED upgrade kits will come with.
I do not have all the details at this time, I am still researching the exact proper fix for the issue with my 6th gen Accord coupe that I am currently rebuilding for my youngest.
There is some, (but very little) info on the subject. I am finding that I have to dig a little to find the proper answer and just haven't touched base with the right person or technician as of yet.

THAT BEING SAID.
I WOULD LIKE TO SAY TO THE OTHERS THAT 'BOTHERED' TO COMMENT ON THIS SUBJECT......

Half of you jokers call yourself "enthusiasts". What a JOKE!!
Someone comes on and has a legitimate issue and all most can say is, change back to OEM.😥😭
in other words, you're all saying "just give up".
Are there no problem solvers left in the world anymore!!??
Bunch of MORONS!!!!
If you don't have any other input, than your boo hoo type, "just give up" strategy.
Then you are not true car people.
So just make your lease payments and keep your worthless "give and go back to stock" opinions to yourselves!!!
I just had to say this due to the fact world seems to be over come with a bunch of dumba** quitters now a days and it is TRULY SAD!!!

RANT OVER!!
Well, someone's bum is on fire....

Did you even read the thread?
There are many aftermarket products that are built of poor quality because consumers want something cool, flashy and cheap. Thus leading to low overall quality of the product. It may look great, but made of cheap materials and be functioning well for the first month and then it would start randomly malfunctioning. There are lots of things that can go wrong: starting with low quality of the product to piss poor installation by the end user or the shop they hire for the job, and that piss poor installation part is almost never talked about, rather people just come here and fire off their complaint cannon and demanding answer and fixes to their problems without describing the problem properly nor telling the whole story. This also goes for time wasters that come here ask a question providing minimum details expect a proper diagnosis and then just say, I already have a dealer appt scheduled to diagnose the issue, what's the point of coming down here and asking for help ? To diagnose issues one must have physical access to the vehicle, unless asked questions asked are provided with derails and the op is engaged in the conversation, not just making a one time post and disappears for five months or years then comes back firing off that no one tried to help them.
 
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