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Alan Maija

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 600Watt Amp/Sub system in my accord running with the stock Alternator + Battery however instead of doing the Big 3 or upgrading to a higher Amp Alternator, i'm looking forward into upgrading just the battery. With the stock Alternator i know that i can not go to high with the Battery upgrade but is there any better Battery upgrade option than the current stock Battery in my Accord EX CVT that can paired along with the stock Alternator and wouldn't overload it?

This battery is what i'm planning to get: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88292_Kinetik-HC800-BLU.html
 
I would get an AGM battery made by EnerSys under the Odyssey brand or some of the Sears Diehard Platinum AGM batteries are relabeled Odyssey batteries. A bigger or more amp capacity battery is not going to overload the alternator. The thing that will overload it is amp draw. I don't think your system is going to be much of a problem for it to handle.
 
Out of curiosity this afternoon, I went outside and popped the hood on my '14 EX and, to my surprise, I found a wimpy 51 battery in there. Ever since I bought the car last year, I've experienced dimming simply by turning the wheel when parking the car or switching gears when I'm parking or preparing to leave.

So, I went to advanced auto parts this evening and was looking at their AGM batteries and the Optima yellow (35), which outputs 900 cca or 1100ca. One thing the gentleman at the store said to ask around was whether or not outfitting such a battery would have any adverse effects (aside from the odd larger physical size) in terms of causing any damage to the electrical system by having too much power? Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
Out of curiosity this afternoon, I went outside and popped the hood on my '14 EX and, to my surprise, I found a wimpy 51 battery in there. Ever since I bought the car last year, I've experienced dimming simply by turning the wheel when parking the car or switching gears when I'm parking or preparing to leave.

So, I went to advanced auto parts this evening and was looking at their AGM batteries and the Optima yellow (35), which outputs 900 cca or 1100ca. One thing the gentleman at the store said to ask around was whether or not outfitting such a battery would have any adverse effects (aside from the odd larger physical size) in terms of causing any damage to the electrical system by having too much power? Anyone have any thoughts on this?
It's not a problem, as long as it's an automotive 12V battery. Avoid Optima batteries. Crappy quality control and overpriced. There's no need for AGM battery for your car. Simply upgrading the battery to 24F size should fix most of your problem. Get the V6 hardware from the link I posted above. If you insist on AGM, get this instead of Optima: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/....com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-24f-710-cca-24f-agm/10310750-P

What i would do first is taking your car to the dealership and have them test the battery. You have 3 years warranty on the battery, use it. If the battery checks out fine, upgrade to 24F with V6 hardware as described above. If you still have issue after that, upgrade your Big 3 (battery ground to chassis, chassis to engine block, and alternator plus to battery plus)
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Can't I just get a Kinetic dry cell battery? They are cheaper and smaller in physical size which can be fit in without buying the V6 hardware mount and I read some really good reviews about them, has anyone actually try one of those yet in their accord?
 
Thanks ice. How hard is it to replace the big 3 with 0 gauge cable and no crimping tools for the connectors?
It's a complete pain in the butt. Get yourself a kit like this to save you the frustration and agony http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74886_XS-Power-BIG3XP.html

If you want to DIY, you will need tools. This works for me http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Ton-Hydra...tery-Cable-Lug-Crimping-Tool-w-Dies-/311304929632?&_trksid=p2056016.m2516.l5255. You will also need to get 0-ga lugs at your local hardware and they're not cheap, between 2-5 dollars. Between the cost of materials and the tools, just buy the kit :lmao:. Only good upside for DIY route is you can customize the length and color of the wires.

Can't I just get a Kinetic dry cell battery? They are cheaper and smaller in physical size which can be fit in without buying the V6 hardware mount and I read some really good reviews about them, has anyone actually try one of those yet in their accord?
It's good battery brand. AGM battery of the same size weighs much more than conventional lead acid, and they are much more expensive. Kinetik HC1400R should be a direct fit for the 51R in the 4-cyl Accord. Although you're better off spending that money on a 24F and upgrade your big 3.
 
So I guess I'll chime in. I'm a Director for the largest deep cycle battery manufacturer in the world. While we don't make anything in a Group 51 size, I can tell you that if you're running a 600 Watt system over and above the rest of the electronics in the car, I wouldn't consider anything BUT an AGM.

I will tell you that I replaced the stock battery in my V6 Coupe EX-L Navi with a Trojan Group 24 AGM. It is thick plate, deep cycle, but still retains greater than the minimum CCA's required for our cars.

Regards Kinetik; I wouldn't waste a single minute looking at this one.

Also, all AGM required the used of pure lead. Don't let marketing terms such as "99.99% pure lead plates" fool you. The 99.99% is a purity rating NOT an indication of the percentage of content of the lead used. Most AGM's use ~60-65% lead content and the lead has to be pure in AGM technology. Most manufacturers use 99.99% pure.

Hope this helps. If you want any more technical details or ammo, feel free to ask on here or PM me.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
getting a 24F upgrade for the CVT seems to be the best option however the installation process and getting the extra hardware mounting parts is a hassle... is there any other alternative beside the 24f?
 
So Pep Boys has 30% off 100.00 or more spent to I went crazy.

Bought a Bosh 24F AGM and some new RainX blades, some Royal Purple Syncromesh for the 6M and other misc. stuff.

Battery came out to 117.00 from 189.00 and that includes giving the old battery for core charge.

Have all the V6 Hardware for Battery Tray so just waiting to hear it has been gathered and gonna fetch it.

Looking at the "Big 3" next and then that will be done.

Will post up if any issues but this has been done a million times before so I expect none.
 
I have a 2014 honda accorf sport that i purchased in september of 2013. Iv been recently having problems with starting my car, i got the battery checked and its fine. Iv had 2 12s with a 1600watt amp but iv had it for over a year and it hasnt given any problems. Last week i tried to start the car but the battery didnt have enough juice, but with a one second jump it starts up. I took out my amp but i still have this problem sometimes the car will start up fine and sometimes it struggles to start.
 
First and foremost, check the physical connections of the battery cables both at the battery and at the opposite ends. Make sure they are clean, tight and solid electrical connections.
 
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