[lektrix]

2000 Coupe EX V6

I bought the car used 2 years ago @ 184,000 kms and have only driven the car roughly for 30,000 kms since (drive often but not long distances). Around 20 months ago the CEL came on and I was told the EGR ports were clogged. Paid $140 for a local mechanic to have it cleaned out. Just last week after an oil change, the CEL came on again with the same issue. Instead of cleaning the ports for $140, I could just buy the part for $55 here @ http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=933377&cc=1366691&jnid=506&jpid=2, labour $40. Would this not be a more effective solution (and I also get to save a bit of $$?) ???

Please advise.

(I know some people (even my mech) recommend cleaning out the ports myself but I just don't have the tools or expertise to do so)

 

[01V6sedan]

Yes, this would save you some money, but some carb cleaner, a set of wrenches, and a weekend afternoon will save you the most.

Watch this and make up your mind: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GvS6In_Yav8

 

[01V6sedan]

Reread your post and realized... cleaning the ports and cleaning the valve are two totally different projects. First clean the valve and see where that gets you. If the CEL does not clear then it's either clogged ports again or a faulty egr valve.

 

[lektrix]

Well, that video makes it look easy. But the one I saw required the engine to be taken apart to clean the "intake manifold"??

 

[CDsDontBurn]

More often than not, it's the EGR port that is clogged up rather than the EGR valve that has failed. I've been trying to find my thread on this from several years ago but I'm having difficulty finding it. Instead, I'm providing you a DIY video from ETCG for you to watch. The one thing I did different when cleaning out the port is that I used a (I think) 5/8" drill bit to clean out the carbon whereas he used a flat head screw driver. Afterwards, I continued cleaning it with a pipe cleaner (a kit can be bought at NAPA for like $7) and sprayed copious amounts of brake cleaner down the port between brushes with the pipe cleaner until I felt comfortable that it was clean. Installation is the reverse of removal.

http://youtu.be/HRp6RWZ1egM

 

[lektrix]

I haven't looked at the video yet because I am at work but if it's a matter of just a few screws and unplugging something out to clean, I can do it. Once you get into 10, 15, 20 steps with 3-5 different tools I may not be as comfortable.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Yea, there are several steps involved in doing this procedure to get to the EGR port. If you are good at following directions and have patience at learning something new, you can handle this. Believe me, the first time I did this myself I was extremely nervous.

The video is just a visual process of Honda's instructions. HERE is Honda's direction on cleaning out the port. It says you need a tapping tool and a new pipe to insert into the EGR port, but really you don't. All what that part of the direction is for is to prevent this from happening again in 75k miles or however long it takes for the crud to build up again. Cleaning it out is sufficient, and once you've done it once, you can do it again.

Tools you'll need (from memory): 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets / wrenches, needle nose pliers, vise grip pliers, phillips head screw driver, flat head screw driver.

Speaking of learning something new, on my other car, I've taken the engine apart down to the cams / valves, and removed all the timing components. It's a learning process and I'm extremely nervous about it all, but I'm confident in my work because I'm following the directions. If I need to do any work as deep as I am doing now again in the future, I'll be able to do it more quickly and have a better idea of what all is involved.

4.6L v8 '97 Ford Thunderbird

All the parts going in. I have purchased more parts since this picture was taken.

Like I said, I've never been this far involved with my Ford other than oil changes and the alternator that failed me prior to this. I've just been following directions and being patient with my lack of knowledge on this engine. All you have to do is do the same, and you'll be able to tackle this EGR job yourself on your car .

 

[Sonya in TX]

I got the P0401 CEL on my 98 V6 Accord at 180,000 miles. I cleaned out the upper EGR passageway in the upper manifold. I put the engine back together and with 4 miles of driving the P0401 code came back. :dunno:

What was wrong? After doing more research...I didn't clear the other (bottom) side of the EGR passageway that ends at the EGR valve. This is the step that took me an hour to clean. Not that taking the engine apart was hard (I got help from my husband). Carb cleaner needs to be flooded into the lower passageway to clear out the built up carbon sludge. Take your time with this step. I used two cans of carb cleaner and it took an hour to dissolve all o f the gunk. I then cleaned the EGR with carb cleaner a second time (can't hurt). Cleaned the EGR connector with electrical cleaner. Did a check to make sure the EGR was working by having the hubby connect the EGR valve to the battery and the valve worked fine. (Eric The Car Guy says EGR's rarely fail in Honda/Acura vehicles).

I put it all back together, cleared the code with my Actron code reader, then did a Seafoam treatment to the intake line. Don't know if it helped, but I sure did smoke the neighborhood up with a huge mushroom cloud out of the two mufflers. Then it took another 20 minutes of highway driving to stop the heavy smoke. That was yesterday. 120 miles later, no CEL light. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my saga with the dreaded P0401 code is over. :nuts:

What I notice so far is my engine is no longer drinking gas or having a rough idle. I was down to 17 MPG before. I'll post again as to the average MPG now the EGR passageways are clear and the Seafoam in the gas tank is used up.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I got the P0401 CEL on my 98 V6 Accord at 180,000 miles. I cleaned out the upper EGR passageway in the upper manifold. I put the engine back together and with 4 miles of driving the P0401 code came back. :dunno:

What was wrong? After doing more research...I didn't clear the other (bottom) side of the EGR passageway that ends at the EGR valve. This is the step that took me an hour to clean. Not that taking the engine apart was hard (I got help from my husband). Carb cleaner needs to be flooded into the lower passageway to clear out the built up carbon sludge. Take your time with this step. I used two cans of carb cleaner and it took an hour to dissolve all o f the gunk. I then cleaned the EGR with carb cleaner a second time (can't hurt). Cleaned the EGR connector with electrical cleaner. Did a check to make sure the EGR was working by having the hubby connect the EGR valve to the battery and the valve worked fine. (Eric The Car Guy says EGR's rarely fail in Honda/Acura vehicles).

I put it all back together, cleared the code with my Actron code reader, then did a Seafoam treatment to the intake line. Don't know if it helped, but I sure did smoke the neighborhood up with a huge mushroom cloud out of the two mufflers. Then it took another 20 minutes of highway driving to stop the heavy smoke. That was yesterday. 120 miles later, no CEL light. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my saga with the dreaded P0401 code is over. :nuts:

What I notice so far is my engine is no longer drinking gas or having a rough idle. I was down to 17 MPG before. I'll post again as to the average MPG now the EGR passageways are clear and the Seafoam in the gas tank is used up.

Great work!

The next time this happens though - because it will happen again - is that you use a pipe cleaner and an air compressor in addition to the loads of carb cleaner for the lower EGR passage way. That way you can clean it out much faster the second like 20min doing the whole cleaning thing for the lower EGR passage instead of spending like 2hrs like you did.

Basically, use the carb cleaner to shoot it down there to dissolve the carbon buildup, use the pipe cleaner to break it all apart, and then use the air compressor to blow it all away! Do that, and repeat like 2 or 3 times to ensure it's all gone. Be sure to wear safety glasses when doing the air compressor part!!!

 

[Sonya in TX]

Great work!

The next time this happens though - because it will happen again - is that you use a pipe cleaner and an air compressor in addition to the loads of carb cleaner for the lower EGR passage way. That way you can clean it out much faster the second like 20min doing the whole cleaning thing for the lower EGR passage instead of spending like 2hrs like you did.

Basically, use the carb cleaner to shoot it down there to dissolve the carbon buildup, use the pipe cleaner to break it all apart, and then use the air compressor to blow it all away! Do that, and repeat like 2 or 3 times to ensure it's all gone. Be sure to wear safety glasses when doing the air compressor part!!!

Pipe cleaner is a great idea the next time it happens.

I also did an oil change and used synthetic oil. I read that it build carbon at a slower rate than regular oil. Don't know if it's true, but I guess it can't hurt.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

You also get like ~1/2MPG better with synthetic oil; so I've heard.

 

[Sonya in TX]

Success.

I did open up the manifold and used a pipe cleaner brush to attempt to scrub any remaining carbon buildup out of the EGR passageways. The only thing I did was shred the brushes. :dunno:

But after 450 plus miles, the CEL never returned and I consider this problem fixed. I'm so glad I did my research to avoid having to needlessly replace my EGR valve. :banana:

I checked my oil and I'm amazed at how clean synthetic oil runs. It looks as clear as the week I put it in.

Anyone else using full synthetic in their 6th generation cars?

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Awesome! Glad you've got it fixed on your own and saved some serious coin in doing so

As for what oil I use, I use synthetic blend. I don't use full Dino oil, and I don't love my car enough to warrant it using full synthetic, haha.