***This information only applies to the '03-'07 K24 5AT models***
I thought I'd share this info for the maintenance-minded. Some (or all) of this information is duplicated elsewhere on the site, but I couldn't find a step-by-step process for doing this, so I thought I'd post mine. The ATF filter on the K24 ATs sits on top of the transmission's bell housing, just to the left (passenger side) and aft (toward the firewall) of the air box.
I'd change the filter after the car has been sitting for a few hours. There will be less fluid in it that way, which makes the job less messy. This job also involves a bit of leaning over the fender, so you might want to drape the fender with something so you don't accidentally scratch it. I was able to complete the job with almost no mess and no marred fenders by following this advice.
The basics of how I changed it:
* ('03-'05 only) Remove the 10mm bolt from throttle cable bracket; move cables as necessary
* Remove the 10mm bolt from the right (driver's) side of the filter retention bracket
* Remove the filter retention bracket
* Lift up the filter and place a shop rag under it to absorb ATF
* Compress the hose clamp tabs and move the clamp aside (do this on the input/output sides--you only need to move it a few inches).
* Grasp the filter and one of the hoses with your hands; wiggle the hose and pull outward a bit to remove the hose. Do this for both sides. Don't use tools to hold the hose while pulling, you might damage it.
* Connect the new filter to the input/output hoses, move the clamps back into place, replace the bracket and its bolt, and replace the throttle cable bracket and its bolt.
* Installation is the reverse of removal. The filter is directional; be sure to reinstall it in the same orientation you see in the photos in my next post. Also be sure to pay attention to the tab on the left (passenger's) side of the filter retention bracket when reinstalling it. Make sure it's seated properly before bolting it in.
The '06-'07 K24s have DBW, so there are no throttle cables to get in the way.
Overall, it was a pretty easy procedure. It took about half an hour, and most of that was spent trying to move the clamps. I ended up using a pair of lockable needle-nose pliers for the back (firewall side) one and a wide-jaw pair of channel locks for the front (radiator side) one. It's easier to get at the front one from the top, while I moved the back one from the back side. The dealer wanted $75 to do it, so it's definitely worth your time to do it yourself.
I used part number 25430-PLR-003. After being told by one dealership that it was a bad part number and being quoted $39 for it from a second, I ordered it from Majestic Honda (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com), where it's known as item number 374500. If you can't find it that way, find the "AT ATF PIPE" group under Majestic Honda's parts lookup and it's part 004. Their price was $14.04 plus shipping and $4.95 handling. Order a couple of them if you can to spread the shipping/handling costs over more parts. Please post here if you know of someone with a better price. I know some of this information is in the FAQ, but I added it here in case you missed it there.
I hope some of this information helps. If you have any questions, please ask. I'll check this thread for a couple of days.
Anyway, a few pictures:
One is the part in the bag, with the part number label. Show this to the Honda parts guys when they tell you it doesn't exist or that it's not available in the U.S. Another is the filter canister cut open with the top removed, another is a shot of the bypass valve, and another is a section of the filter media that I cut apart out of curiosity. This isn't even listed by Honda as a maintenance item, but it can't hurt to change it every 20,000-30,000 miles or so, especially because it's such an inexpensive and easy job.
I thought I'd share this info for the maintenance-minded. Some (or all) of this information is duplicated elsewhere on the site, but I couldn't find a step-by-step process for doing this, so I thought I'd post mine. The ATF filter on the K24 ATs sits on top of the transmission's bell housing, just to the left (passenger side) and aft (toward the firewall) of the air box.
I'd change the filter after the car has been sitting for a few hours. There will be less fluid in it that way, which makes the job less messy. This job also involves a bit of leaning over the fender, so you might want to drape the fender with something so you don't accidentally scratch it. I was able to complete the job with almost no mess and no marred fenders by following this advice.
The basics of how I changed it:
* ('03-'05 only) Remove the 10mm bolt from throttle cable bracket; move cables as necessary
* Remove the 10mm bolt from the right (driver's) side of the filter retention bracket
* Remove the filter retention bracket
* Lift up the filter and place a shop rag under it to absorb ATF
* Compress the hose clamp tabs and move the clamp aside (do this on the input/output sides--you only need to move it a few inches).
* Grasp the filter and one of the hoses with your hands; wiggle the hose and pull outward a bit to remove the hose. Do this for both sides. Don't use tools to hold the hose while pulling, you might damage it.
* Connect the new filter to the input/output hoses, move the clamps back into place, replace the bracket and its bolt, and replace the throttle cable bracket and its bolt.
* Installation is the reverse of removal. The filter is directional; be sure to reinstall it in the same orientation you see in the photos in my next post. Also be sure to pay attention to the tab on the left (passenger's) side of the filter retention bracket when reinstalling it. Make sure it's seated properly before bolting it in.
The '06-'07 K24s have DBW, so there are no throttle cables to get in the way.
Overall, it was a pretty easy procedure. It took about half an hour, and most of that was spent trying to move the clamps. I ended up using a pair of lockable needle-nose pliers for the back (firewall side) one and a wide-jaw pair of channel locks for the front (radiator side) one. It's easier to get at the front one from the top, while I moved the back one from the back side. The dealer wanted $75 to do it, so it's definitely worth your time to do it yourself.
I used part number 25430-PLR-003. After being told by one dealership that it was a bad part number and being quoted $39 for it from a second, I ordered it from Majestic Honda (www.hondaautomotiveparts.com), where it's known as item number 374500. If you can't find it that way, find the "AT ATF PIPE" group under Majestic Honda's parts lookup and it's part 004. Their price was $14.04 plus shipping and $4.95 handling. Order a couple of them if you can to spread the shipping/handling costs over more parts. Please post here if you know of someone with a better price. I know some of this information is in the FAQ, but I added it here in case you missed it there.
I hope some of this information helps. If you have any questions, please ask. I'll check this thread for a couple of days.
Anyway, a few pictures:
One is the part in the bag, with the part number label. Show this to the Honda parts guys when they tell you it doesn't exist or that it's not available in the U.S. Another is the filter canister cut open with the top removed, another is a shot of the bypass valve, and another is a section of the filter media that I cut apart out of curiosity. This isn't even listed by Honda as a maintenance item, but it can't hurt to change it every 20,000-30,000 miles or so, especially because it's such an inexpensive and easy job.
