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CV axle, new, used or aftermarket?

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
RH aftermarket cv axle gave out after 5 months on my sons car. TBH I don't know if its a faulty part or bad driving on his part. He is about to go out of state where I will no longer do the repairs. He needs a RH cv axle and I guess he wants another 5 years out of the car

Would you go new, used or aftermarket?
 
#3 ·
Used: no.
Aftermarket: maybe, depends on price and brand
New: if the owner is okay with the cost, this is the way to go

Aftermarket axles are one of the biggest crapshoots there is. Both axles on my Odyssey are aftermarket (one from NAPA, one unknown brand) and they work great, and at the same time, I have seen people chase steering wheel vibration issues for months only to come back and find out it was their brand new aftermarket axle causing it.
 
#6 ·
OEM is cool, but I think it's like $450 for my LX. So I went with a NAPA axle (2 years ago), which was $100. I did go with OEM on the left, because that was $150 when I bought it in 2018. The NAPA right and OEM left has both been fine for me. This might sound braggy, but if it's fine for me, it's probably be fine for a stock car.

I did go with a Cardone on the right before the NAPA, the first one I got was faulty on arrival, the second one lasted two years, but can probably go longer (that was a premature replacement, don't think anything was actually wrong with it).
 
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#7 ·
I would say that it seems smaller cars like the Civic seem to be less problematic with aftermarket. The Honda Pilot forum has not settled on a quality aftermarket replacement and recommends OEM because of vibration issues. Often aftermarket are not built as heavy as OEM.
 
#8 ·
NailGrease said:
I would say that it seems smaller cars like the Civic seem to be less problematic with aftermarket. The Honda Pilot forum has not settled on a quality aftermarket replacement and recommends OEM because of vibration issues. Often aftermarket are not built as heavy as OEM.
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I agree. I hear fewer issues with them on the Accord as well, but the Odyssey is similar to the Pilot, at least the 3rd gen. 4th gen Odysseys seem to have a couple aftermarket options (Trakmotive is one of them IIRC) that work fairly consistently.
 
owns 2012 Honda Accord EX-L V6
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#9 ·
Hudouc said:
OEM is cool, but I think it's like $450 for my LX. So I went with a NAPA axle (2 years ago), which was $100.
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NAPA has higher quality auto parts than most other auto parts stores. This is especially true if you buy the better part, for many parts they'll have good-better-best options. The time/mileage warranties on many parts is the same or higher than OEM.

For example, I bought rear hub assemblies for a 2008 Accord LXP back in Sept 2020 and they have worked perfectly - no ABS sensor issues, the bearings were exactly the same as the OEM hubs I replaced, and the warranty was 3 year, 45,000 miles. The hubs have about 57,000 miles on them now.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
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#13 · (Edited)
Is the Cardone new or reman? I would stay away from any reman or used axles, simply because the wear incurred is irreversible, no matter what they do.
Axles are not rocket science, which have stayed pretty much the same for ages. My car has Trakmotive from RockAuto and it's been a few years with no issues. $50 shipped vs OEM $400~$500, can't get more drastic than that, and it's easy to change.
 
#15 ·
I've had pretty decent luck with new Cardone axles (not reman.) I replaced both axles on the 2010 a few years ago. Got them for about $60 each before shipping at Rockauto. It's been 10's' of thousands of miles sense then, I did have to warranty the drivers side due to a pinhole leak in the outer cv boot but other than that no issues to report. They do have a lifetime warranty. The car did have a slight shimmy when accelerating from 20 ish mph. It did that before installing the Cardones, strangely when we got the car (110k miles) both axles were already replaced with remans. The shimmy felt exactly the same as it did when the new Cardone axles were installed so I just assumed whoever replaced the axles before put in an aftermarket intermediate shaft. Never bothered me since the shimmy only lasted a second and it would only pop up when the trans was under a lot of load.

When I did the engine swap I pulled the trans with it, and in the process accidentally hyperextended both axles nearly to the point of separating the cv boots. I can't explain why but the shimmy is completely gone now. The rubber damper is on the oem axles to prevent driveline vibrations but if you're in the rust belt its no good having them. If you don't want to spend a fortune Cardone new is a good choice. You can expect at least 5 years 60k+ miles out of them. If I got 100k miles I would be pretty happy, for 60 bucks you got your moneys worth. Oem would be ideal but imo hard to justify spending 500 dollars for one part on a decade old car. You can also check ebay, I've had good success with used oem parts
 
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