Honda Accord Forums - The DriveAccord community is where Honda Accord 2003+ owners can discuss reviews, service, parts, and share mods. banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

Bruce Hawkins

· AC6DN
Joined
·
1,752 Posts
Reaction score
72
Location
Bay Area (Santa Cruz), Ca
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
DIY, 2012 (Gen8), V6 transmission oil (ATF) cooler and in-line filter install...

This weekend, I installed an in-line ATF (Magnefine) filter and transmission oil cooler, to my V6 Accord.
My transmission, now runs 10-15 degrees cooler and so does the coolant fuel tempature, according to the OBD-2 live data.

To do the install you will need the clips to reinstall the lower splash shield, a Magnefine filter and cooler of your choice (Tru-Cool, 703-4452P6, #4452, kit. The kit comes with the 11/32 hose and installation hardware. 11/32 is one 32 short of 3/8th of an inch). You will need an extra 3 feet of 3/8ths transmission oil cooler hose (not power steering or fuel line hose). Atleast 4 extra, 3/8th narrow hose clamps. And some, dish soap to add in installation of some tight hose connections. Flush wire cutters - Common wire cutters won't work.
And very good diy mechanic skills. If any of this doesn't make sense - Please don't attempt this installation...

Why I'm doing this. When I commute over the mountain pass, my ATF gets to no less than 225F and usually 235F is typical on a hot summer day. Even just getting groceries and driving home, I get to 208 to almost 220F (I live on top of a hill).
220F is too hot for ATF to get regularly...

There are two ways to install the cooler... According to the coolers directions and "my way." For the common way - follow the external coolers supplied directions.
I chose to do it differently (my way), than following the external coolers instructions, knowing that ATF temperatures below the minimum ideal of ~120F is also bad. My way, uses the factory radiator cooler to regulate the ATF temperature. So I installed mine before the factory built-in ATF cooler, found in the bottom the radiator. I also added an in-line filter, since there is not one accessable (changeable) externally to the transmission.

There are two ATF lines coming out of the transmission. One with a red stripe and the other one with a blue stripe. Red is the (hot) output ATF line and blue is the input back into the transmission.

My directions...
1. Remove the lower splash shield, front bumper, and drain and remove the radiator (and all that this in tales). And also the battery and the heat shield box. Leave the blue striped line in place (for doing it, my way).

2. With just the AC condenser still in place, prepare to install the new external cooler. Follow the external coolers directions for this part. Place the external ATF cooler, where the fan will move the most air past it (on the drivers side of the car). With the output barbs pointing towards driver's side) and the top parb, just above the receiver dryer.
The pins that go through the condenser, are hard to install. The teeth go towards the outsides. Make sure to miss the lines inside the condenser. Make sure to install the next pin in the same condenser row. Install all 4 pins. Make sure to cut the pins flush after installing per the external coolers instructions, as there not a lot of extra space between the condenser and radiator.

3. Using the 3/8 line, install the filter to the red striped line. Either add the filter near the transmission or the external cooler. The filter needs to be changed whenever the ATF is changed.
Make sure the filters flow direction arrow, on the filter, is pointing away from the transmission line, that had the red stripe.

4. Add the supplied 11/32 hose, using some dish soap as the 11/32 is smaller than the 3/8 nipple, on the filter. Use enough hose, that you can roote the hose safely and without any tight bends, through to the upper barb, of the external cooler that your adding.

5. Add the 11/32 hose, to the lower cooler barb, enough so that you can roote it back to the factory cooler line in the radiator, that originally was connected to the red striped line. Use enough hose, that you can roote the hose safely and without any tight bends, through to the factory radiator cooler line in the lower radiator. Dish soap will be needed here. The factory barb is 3/8 line

6. Make sure the rooting avoided any sharp edges, anything that moves, or spins and use enough hose, that you can roote the hose safely and without any tight bends. Recheck all hoses and their hose clamps. You will need about 1/2 quort of ATF (Honda type) for what's in the filter, hoses and the new cooler.

I recommend finding a good competent mechanic to do this. It was a pain in the butt...

Bruce
 
My neighbor who's a mechanic, bought an 8th gen accord coupe few months ago. He had an issue where the rad crapped out on him and trans fluid and coolant mixed and now his transmission is acting up. Story aside. That means the car already has a transmission cooler on it. From what he told me, they can mess up and thus have happen what he experienced. But I'd imagine Replacing the rad on that car proactively may in fact be the easier/wiser decision. If his car's rad literally broke internally and had that kind of damage done. I would change it out if I owned that setup on my vehicle and for all you know it may very well really help the cooling simultaneously.
 
My neighbor who's a mechanic, bought an 8th gen accord coupe few months ago. He had an issue where the rad crapped out on him and trans fluid and coolant mixed and now his transmission is acting up. Story aside. That means the car already has a transmission cooler on it. From what he told me, they can mess up and thus have happen what he experienced. But I'd imagine Replacing the rad on that car proactively may in fact be the easier/wiser decision. If his car's rad literally broke internally and had that kind of damage done. I would change it out if I owned that setup on my vehicle and for all you know it may very well really help the cooling simultaneously.
Agreed. This is a weak point for 8th gen Accords especially in the snow/rust belt

My 8th gen had the same issue a few years back with failed rad connections. New rad, trans fluid flush, new coolant and all seemed okay until the torque converter lockup clutch began slipping 6 months later.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: 0dyfamily
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
An update.
I got to drive the steep highway mountain pass resently. This is the pass were I normally get up into the 220's degrees Fahrenheit - at least (the ATF). I only got up to just 205F, for around a minute or less. The rest of the time, I was around 195F or so. This is about a 20F degree temperature drop. It was around 95F that day.
So this is an improvement...
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts