[KayGeeP]

Yeah, my carbon comments or questions are regarding the combustion chamber, not the valves. The valves are relatively clean by what I can only assume is an effective PCV/EGR system. I’ve never seen a combustion chamber that free of carbon. Maybe it is top tier fuel, maybe it is my tune, but most likely is the design of the engine. Although I don’t specifically know what engineering feats would result in such a clean, carbon free combustion chamber.

Noted, My bad

 

[Sapphir8]

Did you have a catch can?

 

[Kaminski54]

No catch can. Surprising, isn’t it?

 

[Kaminski54]

Another thing of note may (or may not) be a factor. I’ve only used 5w-30 for the vehicle’s life. Thinking maybe the higher HTHS is sealing the piston rings more completely resulting in less blow by that gets recycled via the PCV system. Less blow by through the crankcase, less through the PCV system, less blow by/carbon on the valves. I also have not had fuel dilution issues which may have been improved by the same theory… higher HTHS oil leads to less fuel being able to get past the rings and into the crankcase oil.

 

[KayGeeP]

Interesting, has anyone tried 0w30? ... Not that I 3xpect much difference

 

[Kaminski54]

I would think 0w-30 would be similar, but you’d have to check that oil’s HTHS.

 

[dr.zed]

Top tier fuel wont help in any way alleviate the carbon fouling issues plaguing GDI motors.

Fuel gets sprayed directly into the cylinders, none of it makes contact with the valves or intake. Better quality oil, sooner oil changes (not waiting until the maintenance minder tells you to change it) have a bigger impact on slowing carbon fouling, it's inevitable..... And of course we have the elephant in the room..... Aftermarket Oil catch can. (Soma car makers, like Mazda, have a factory catch can installed by no way for it to be emptied...

... same with the GM LT5 supercharged engine (C7 Z06 and Camaro ZL1). Cannot empty the device...

 

[LunarGod]

Old thread but would be cool to see where the owner is now with his Accord (did it still hold up). I am also on Stage 2 running exclusively 93 fuel. I follow the maintenance minder for doing servicing religiously and no issues so far but the car is still young at about 33k miles and tuned for about 22k of those. But it's nice to see an opposing point to all the people swearing a tune will destroy the car.

 

[Samurai1225]

Nice to see. There is a YouTube channel out there somewhere that I have seen with pics Civic intake values that bascially looked the same way. No major carbon build-up.

 

[Kaminski54]

Old thread but would be cool to see where the owner is now with his Accord (did it still hold up). I am also on Stage 2 running exclusively 93 fuel. I follow the maintenance minder for doing servicing religiously and no issues so far but the car is still young at about 33k miles and tuned for about 22k of those. But it's nice to see an opposing point to all the people swearing a tune will destroy the car.

Still going strong without problems. At 99k.

 

[Kaminski54]

Mechanic was shocked at how clean the pistons/cylinders were at my mileage. Just had my condenser replaced under warranty after AC issues arose. Engine still going strong!

 

[Dan-O]

It may Look Clean but the Build up on Stems might lead to Early Seat Wear - Only Time will tell - of Tuned Honda's that been Raced @ Drag Strip with High Boost and Large Turbo's
Just Blew Valve Seals on 1 Cly showing a little Smoke - they are Going to Larger Turbo - but First have to have Head Opened up for New Seals - they will Most Likely
do Valve Spring Kit & Keepers so they able to Safely Spin 7700 Rpm's . .

ps: Pit Marks or Little Pock Marks are from I Believe someone
Tuned or On POOR Fuel then Switched it up - to - Use More Ethanol Mix to Try & Clear Up = ( pre Ignition Detonation ) ./.

Here some Examples of ( pre Ignition Detonation )

1. First one Guys Motor had Condition and Wasn't Paying Attention then Lugged Motor - Don't Want to do Both ..

2. Piston : Looks to Me more Like Ate a Valve - even thou they said ( pre Ignition Detonation ) Just Cast Pistons then :

3. Very High - ( pre Ignition Detonation ) on Hot Turbo - Temperatures @ Working Compression Goes
through Roof in " Seconds ~ Sure Seems Owner " would have Noticed Earlier . .
Little Lighter on some Edges so it could have been Lean Injector - or Semi Stuck . .

Poor Tune - or - Wrong Fuel and someone Tried to Load up on Higher Ethanol but didn't have Tune or Senor

" Not a Tight Pattern " as NOT DIRECT INJECTION with Newer
Super Speed Master ECU Timings to Match DI ..

May want to Switch to Cooler Plug just for Starts

 

[Dan-O]

Only Other Thing I'm able to Summarize by First Photo - is Our Intake systems Need small Small Mesh Screens ..
😇
as NOT all of those Marks are little Bits of Carbon . . ( Like did You Run through Sands Storm ) about 20%

As Far as Dark Redish Looking Sludge Type stuff - I'd say Oil Changes were too Extended .. to Turbo Coking
Is getting in Oil then Burning Off on Hottest of Spots .. ( Slight Wearing just Below It )
I'm Wondering If High Ethanol Mixes are doing something to ( Mild Maybe ) as Not Clear on Gasket . .
Gasket .. ( Either Way If Your Planning on ) Going to Bigger Power - I'd have Head Pulled - Clean all New Valve Seals
One of New Performance Head Gaskets & Spring Kit - so able to Spin to 7600 Rpms . . , But I'm Being Overly Safe as Motor ( Full Motors ) & Labor are like Mega Bucks . . 8K or more ~ .. ~ But Looks like You have Caught it Early !

Makes Me want to Scope My Motor Now . . 🙏 as Fuel around here Sucks

Very Least would be 150 Mile Marvel Wash Out on warm weather No Stopping Until You Stop to Drop OIL !

Just adding 1 more thing on that Sludge someone Way have Over Filled Crank Case like -3/4qt - 1qt . .

 

[Dan-O]

Close Up Plug Gap If Your Running Extra Boost & 1 Step Cooler on Plugs . .

 

[Sazuka P1]

I know this is a very old thread, but I was impressed enough I'd like to contribute to why I think it looks so nice and clean in there:
1. very few short trips, 20 minute drives you said, you burn off extra fuel and moisture by completely warming the engine 2. You are using one of the best oil's on the planet for cleanliness, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, a mid SAPS oil and your using 5W30, this is exactly what I use as it is (I live in the desert) just about the best you can get and 5W30 is recommended in other countries, has a bit more protection with a higher HTHS (look it up). 0W20 is recommended in the USA for fuel mileage gains, not protection. 0W20 Honda Oil btw is damn good. PUP is just added insurance. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil has an API SP rating. What the SP rating has is chemistry for addressing LSPI (look it up) and timing chain wear issues. 3. You change it frequently. 4. You use high octane Top Tier (look it up) gasoline. Top Tier has more detergent. Perfect Engine because you've taken excellent car of it. Congratulations. Do a used oil analysis, I bet it comes back perfect. The only thing I was going to add to your maintenance schedule was a once or twice a year a bottle of Techron Total Fuel System Cleaner in the gas, but by the looks of things, that's not necessary. The exact name of the cleaner is important as it is one of the few fuel system cleaners that contains Polyetheramine (PEA), the same exact same detergent in Top Tier gas. All other fuel system cleaners are MUCH less effective. You don't appear to need it though, lol!

 

[Dan-O]

OK Good Old Thread : Like Everything in Life there are Variations

Everyone should be taking Time to Fully Understand Their Ride , By that I Mean Really Beyond Skin , Beyond Normal Tweaks ~ U Must Understand What Your ~ Drive Train ~ Desires . . or . . Needs

Honda is Best Engine Manufacture in World , VW , Yamaha , Ford etc.
that said at Beginning of Every Shift or When Tools are Re-Zero'd or Touched Off - Changed
Tolerances will Vary .. Pistons , Rings , Bores , Special Honing , Way Motor & Drive _Line was Broken In.

For those that have Slightly Looser Motor - with some Fuel Dilution or Slight Oil Use . .
Yes ~ Tweaking Oil is Good . . this should be Tested & Black Stone Readings done ..

Just Smelling Fuel after 7800 Miles in Your Oil - & - many short Mileage Runs - might be on You !
or in Deep Cold , You should have Changed Oil - Early @ 5000 Miles .. & Run That Drive_line Fully HOT.
You may have been using Poor Fuel in Hot Weather - Not Good - these Motors Run Hot
For a Reason . .

Here's a Study done by Red_Line from Bob's Oil Guy's Site ,well it came from RED LINE - OIL !

Be Careful 1 Oil might be Good for some , NOT Good for Many . .

If Your Running More HP that's Different Story as many here Know .

This Test doesn't have 5W-20 which I Run & Test Bed Should have been HONDA 2.0 T
It is Not . . Our Motor are Running in 218F to 224F Range Once Fully Hot . . in Hot Summer Time.
In Canada in Winter even at 25F Not -10F or -15F - all Aluminum is Pulling BTU's Fast !
Motor needs to be Working Harder & Longer to Hold Stat Open a Crack , Little Alone Fully Open ..

0W-20 - ( I switch to 5W-20 ) in first 1145 miles Dropped that Filter .

Oil Pressure Swing is Less then Other Oils
~ If anyone Please Find Test ~ 5W-20 Please Post it Up . .
Those of Us in Hot South or Harder Driving in Mountains or Tuned
Oil Pressure & Condition of Oil - could be Greatly Met with Simple OIL FILTER - RE_Location Kit . .
Keep Oil Temps in Check , Keeps Oil Pressure Up - Run Larger Oil Filter -Increasing Amount of Oil
Equal 6000 miles Changes on Tuned Cars , 7000 Miles Plus on Commuters etc.
Winter coming Oil - wouldn't need to Go Back to 5W20 as You'd already be there . .

I Looked at Many Oil Cooler & Lines etc. there is always an Oil Pressure Drop Involved . . of some sort
Larger Oil Filter & Big Lines = More Oil & Cooler Temps - for Tuners & Hot Rod Guy Running through Mountains . .

 

[onepointfive]

Top tier fuel wont help in any way alleviate the carbon fouling issues plaguing GDI motors.

Incorrect. Exhaust gas recirculation is a major culprit in fouled valves. While you're right about Direct Injection bypassing valves in the first go, you're not factoring in that the partially burned fuel will return again with metered air and re-burned after passing over the valves. Secondly, cleaner injectors meaning better combustion, meaning yet cleaner exhaust gas.

You should definitely use Top Tier gas to at least help keep valves cleaner for longer.

 

[Dan-O]

Here's another Aspect of Oil Temperatures & Effects of certain Oils
Oil Break Down do to Temperatures is 1st Thing , Lower Oil Pressure Second Item ..

Starts Adding Up to Less Protection - then They Tune Motor with Extra 110Hp & Spin it to 7000 Rpm's
Best have all Your Items Tweaked - to get Longevity . .

Oils Starts Loosing There ability to Protect Early On . .

 

[Dan-O]

To Prevent High Oil Temp - Break Down , Too Help Keep You Oil Pressure Up
You Require and Oil that has Number of Special Packages !

But those Packages have to all Play Well with One Another . .

That's where H.T.H.S come In . .

see Spec's

 

[Dan-O]

Comparisons of some Favorite Oil on Market