[t-rd]

YES! Chris can answer this!!

For those that have replaced the front anti-sway bar or the front anti-sway bushings (NOT end links), did you:
- drop the rear side of the front sub frame to get working space? or
- did you loosen just the front bolt of the bracket and bend it out of the way then squeezed the new bushing in?

My front ones are finally squeaking. I crawled under the car tonight and could not even fit a wrench onto the rear bracket's bolt. And if I do fit a wrench on there and manage to start loosening it, the wrench will get stuck. The rear bolt is nearly kissing the chassis with just 5mm of space.

Please exercise your front anti-sway bar wisdom.

thanks!

 

[chris918]

You could bend them, but it's literally 4 (maybe 6?) extra bolts. And a jack to let it down. Use a wrench from the inside of the sub frame and it's easy.

Oh, and disconnect the passenger side motor mount while you're at it. Also easy.

Put a TLS sway bar in there while you're at it.

 

[t-rd]

According to some references I found out there, you need to unbolt the rear engine mount, sub frame mid mounts. Does that sound right to you?

Or did you just unbolt the side engine mount, 2 mid frame mounts?

 

[demonics12]

I was going to try this on the weekend, but got hauled into work.

Curious to see how you guys do this... I figured it wouldn't be hard to do.

 

[chris918]

Didn't have to mess with rear mount. Just back and mid frame mount underneath.

 

[t-rd]

unbolt:
side mount
2 mid frame mount
2 rear underside large bolts for the front sub frame
support rear of front sub frame with a hydraulic jack then lower slowly

YES?

 

[chris918]

Support with a jack before any unbolting

 

[forindooruse]

I'm lazy. I got a pry bar and bent the brackets. It wasn't hard and didn't take much time. All you have to do is pry it up enough to get the old out and stuff the new in, then bend it back enough to get the bolt started well enough to torque it back into shape. It worked fine.

 

[t-rd]

I'm lazy. I got a pry bar and bent the brackets. It wasn't hard and didn't take much time. All you have to do is pry it up enough to get the old out and stuff the new in, then bend it back enough to get the bolt started well enough to torque it back into shape. It worked fine.

That's the confirmation I'm looking for. I figured it's rubber so you can just squeeze it out then a new one in. I will do it this way, thanks! I have heard that dropping the rear of the sub frame can skew the alignment.

 

[chris918]

My car handles as good as it ever has. Won't hurt the alignment one bit.