[joerockt]

Well, here it is, the moment you've all been waiting for , the Fujita Cold Air Intake DIY for the 7th gen Accord. Specifically, this is an 06 but it should apply to all 7th gens.

Level of difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10 would be about a 4 or 5 here. If you know your way around an engine compartment and can do basic maintenance (oil changes, brake pad replacement, etc.) this install shouldnt be a problem for you, BUT:

DISCLAMIER - I take NO responsibility for any damage you may cause to your car. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Tool/Supply requirements:

Phillips and flat head screwdrivers. 10 and 11mm sockets. Ratchet with a long or short extension. Adjustable wrench, medium to small size. Pliers. Foam tape.

Prep Work:

Unpack everything (except for the filter, leave in box for now) and place in an accessible area. I found everything to be completely bolt-on, so no modifications to parts in the kit or on the car were necessary.

Place the driver's side of the car on a jackstand and remove the front wheel. Pop the hood, secure it and lets begin.

Installation:

Pictured below is what you will see when you first open the hood. That long tube is what we want to remove at this stage:

Begin by removing the MAF sensor. Its on the left side of the intake tube. Just unscrew and pull it straight out. This may not apply for 03-05's, not sure if they have MAF's or not. Sorry for the blurry pic:

With the MAF sensor out, now we need to loosen the two clamps on both ends of the tube and remove several hoses. One of the hoses is clamped on, just slide the clamp out of the way and pull the hose off.

With the clamps loose and the hoses removed, pull the tube off the throttle body and remove. Again, sorry for the blurry pic.

If you refer to the very first pic, all the way to the right were the tube was connected is the Airbox. This will need to be removed next. Remove the bolt shown here. You will need to use the 10mm socket with the extension:

Now, move to the far right of the airbox and remove the bolt shown. Again, refer to the very first pic for a larger view.

The bracket that holds the battery in place will need to be removed. Loosen the two nuts (may need adjustable wrench for this). Remove and set aside, you will need to replace it later.

Their is a tube with a clip attached to the left side of the airbox. Its somewhat difficult to remove so if you happen to break it, no worries. You wont need it, and it can be replaced if you ever decide to convert back.

Notice the tube in the next pic. It will need to be disconnected as you pull out the airbox.

Airbox removed:

Now, we need to move to the drivers side wheel well and remove part of the fender lining. Sorry this pic isnt more detailed. Basically what you need to do is remove several clips with the flat head screwdriver and two 11mm bolts. It will be very apparent which clips to remove. Once complete, pull back the lining.

Inside the fender well, you will find the resonator box. Their are two bolts that hold this box in place. One is very easy to get to, as you can see below, the other is a bit more difficult. Start by removing this first bolt:

Now, here is where I ran into an issue, and during my problem solving on how to get to this bolt, I forgot to take pics. Basically, on the TSX, all I needed to do to remove this other bolt was to remove the fog light guard to get to it. This wouldnt work on the Accord, so I ended up partially removing the bumper. The Fujita instructions say to remove the entire bumper, but this isnt necessary. Just remove half of the clips and bolts on the drivers side of the bumper (there is also a screw to remove in the fender well). Then the top portion of the bumper needs to be popped out of place were it meets the headlight. Once popped out, you should have enough room to get your ratchet in there and remove the other bolt. You can now pull out the resonator. Pop the bumper back in place and replace the clips, bolts and screw.

Now, go back to the engine compartment and right in front of the battery is a cover with 2 clips on it. Remove these clips with the pliers, but dont break them.

Remove the cover and disconnect the tube underneath. Replace the cover and reconnect the clips:

Replace the bracket to the battery:

Now, go to the Fujita kit and find the large tube and the 2 large clamps. Place the tube on the throttle body and place both clamps. Tighten the clamp closest to the TB, but leave the other loose.

Place the rubber mount just underneath the fuse box. Thread by hand:

Now, grab the intake and place inside the TB clamp. Also, line up the arm on the rubber mount, with the washer on top of the arm. Tighten the clamp and the rubber mount.

Connect both hoses to the intake. Use the provided adapter to connect the larger tube.

Replace the MAF sensor (if equipped) using the supplied machined screws and Allen key:

Grab your filter:

Attach the filter to the end of the intake in the wheel well, secure with the provided clamp.

Now, here I noticed that the tube comes a little too close to the metal shown below, so I used a piece of foam tape to prevent any rattles.

Complete!

Replace the fender lining, put the wheel back on, lower the car and take her for a test drive.

Gains were noticeable with this intake. Mostly in mid-range and upper end RPM's. Vtec is distinct and sound is a nice growl when you get on the throttle. But it sounds stock when cruising. :thmsup:

Hope this helps someone. Good luck and if you have any questions or corrections, please let me know!

 

[anysia]

i think it might be best to post pics in multiple posts in a thread... it took forever for my pc at work to load these! it seems to go quicker when there's tons of posts with individual pics in it....

 

[joerockt]

i think it might be best to post pics in multiple posts in a thread... it took forever for my pc at work to load these! it seems to go quicker when there's tons of posts with individual pics in it....

It shouldnt make any difference.

 

[stevel]

it's most likely slower than normal because the pictures aren't actually attatched here, you linked to them on another site....

 

[satanzrejekt]

Wow. Thanks!
I might get it installed tomorrow then!!

vroom?

 

[joerockt]

it's most likely slower than normal because the pictures aren't actually attatched here, you linked to them on another site....

Yea, their linked to imageshack. Didnt know I could attach pics here. Most forums dont let you do that...

I'd rather have them saved in Imageshack anyway...

 

[BenjiBoy650]

Thanks for the awesome writeup Joe, it would be awesome if everyone did this for every mod :thmsup: The pictures are bigger than normal but that's understandable and appreciated, given that they help a lot in most cases. How the pictures are arranged in posts do not matter, and they loaded quickly for me. I set my scroll size at 6 lines per click on the scroll wheel, and I scrolled through as fast as I could...only 2 pictures were not loaded when I passed them and I'd say that's pretty good speed.

 

[Wardsweb]

I have moved the pictures to one of my servers and resized them. It's faster now.

 

[RTexasF]

As of 3-11-06 I only get the red X's!!?? No pics.

 

[Inspector1]

? They were there at 6 AM this morning ??? Now the red x's

I1 :dunno:

 

[samsonskeg]

too much bandwith?

 

[Wardsweb]

Glitch at the server company, they were offline for about 2 hours this morning. My appologies.

 

[joerockt]

Thanks for the resize. I wanted to keep them large to show detail, but I forget that I'm running 1600x1200

I think everyone will get the idea...

 

[BenjiBoy650]

I forget that I'm running 1600x1200

Same here

 

[ThEvil0nE]

Very nice :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

Do you get less rain or more where you're at?

 

[SSMV6]

I forget that I'm running 1600x1200

Me three!

BTW, nice writeup, joe. :yes:

 

[joerockt]

Very nice :thmsup: :thmsup: :thmsup:

Do you get less rain or more where you're at?

Compaired to where? :dunno: We hardly get much rain, in fact this past weekend was the most we've had in a year.

 

[SSMV6]

I wouldn't worry about hydrolocking the engine much unless you like to drive through lakes... I had a CAI in my old Civic Si for 4 years and i've never ran into a problem with puddles. I've gone through puddles that are about a foot deep without any problems and my car was lowered! You just got to make sure you're not accelerating when you're going through the deeper puddles to minimize the chances of it sucking up water.

 

[joerockt]

^^^ :yes: I've had mine for 1.5 years and no issues even driving through an inch or so of water. In fact, if you look at the pic of where the filter is, its almost above the wheel. So, if you drive into water that deep, hydrolocking will be the least of your worries aranoid:

 

[SiClone]

Excellent write up!!! :thumbsup: