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dcarste1

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So I don't know too much about brakes, but does this seem right? :

Both of the rear brake pads when I look through the alloy wheel have absolutely zero clearance on the disc/rotor. I walked around my apartment complex looking at other new accords and hondas, Seemed most of them had the same thing if they were Accords, the CRV's and Oddessy's had clearance.

The rear rotors have lots of brown rust looking material, and the front rotors do not.

Has anyone heard of this?

Can fellow 9th gen Accord owners go out to their car and see if the rear brake pad it touching the rotor on both or either side? I don't understand how this could be right.

I do sometimes at only certain speeds get that high pitched sound some find hard to hear but I thought that was the CVT. I took it in to shop a year ago about the high pitch, they said something about the breaks and clearance but that they were 'in spec' and normal.

Both of my rear pads are touching, so were other 9th gen accords when I looked through the alloy wheel to see if there was any clearance.

I am suspecting something is off because of the brownish material (dont think it is rust) forming all over the brake assembly. It isn't really bad, but putting two and two together makes me think Honda is again keeping their mouth shut - just like they did on the 8th gen accord rear break pad premature wear class action lawsuit.

Anyone heard of premature wear on rear brake pads of the 9th gen Accords, possibly due to this clearance issue?

I would love to hear feedback from all the 9th gen owners on their clearance, and if they have none or they can tell there is at least a very small space.

It could be normal, but I am skeptical and wanted to check with people more knowledgable about the brake system on the Accord.

Thanks!
 
brake: The things that slow your car down
break: The thing Fiats do, and the thing Steven Seagal does to your arm if you try to take over his Naval ship.

I have no idea what you mean by "clearance"? There are no 9th Gen brake issues that I am aware of, other than that slight squeal some 2013 owners had.

Pictures please....
 
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Nope.

I looked at two other 9th gen accords and there is no space between the brake pads and the rotors. I was looking online and that is correct - or less than a third of a MM. It isn't pressing hard on it is the point that it is OK - and it isn't scratching.

I did a test on how hot the rotors got after driving and braking for 5 minutes.

The front brake rotors were hotter! So I was concerned about the rear brakes - but it looks like honda did something to rectify the break pad premature wear issue.

I guess we have all new part no.'s for 2015 and newer accords for all brake components at least in the rear - from what I've read. I just thought it was odd, but then after seeing 2 other accords the same way I guess it isn't. I think if you compare your car, it would need to be a 2015 or newer for apples to apples because of the new part numbers (hoping that means different parts were engineered).

But no, I didn't and do not have the E brake on for sure. I even put it into neutral to see if the pads would release a little. They aren't pushing hard at all though....so all good.


RickBlaine- I was referring to where the rear break pads contact the rotors to slow the car down. On my 2015 the break pads are touching the rotors when the car is off, and on.

My front's have some clearance (a few millimeters space between the break pad and the rotor). It seems they engineered something new as I heard they are all new part numbers for calipers/pads/etc. for rear.

I'm not complaining, it just seemed odd they touch. I guess it is just how hard they touch without the break pedal compressed. It just must ever so lightly touch on the rotor.

Wish someone knew what's up. I don't really know anything much about breaks/callipers/rotors - which is why I was asking.
 
Fronts will always be hotter than rears. Your front to back braking ratio is probably 70/30.

Clearance between a pad and a rotor is minimal if it is a couple thousands of an inch that is probably a lot. If you are getting material on your break calipers it sounds like you might have a pad that is hung up.

What I would do is, pull everything apart and get a new set of pads. Is there a big difference between the material on the inside to outside pad, that would be a sure sign of a hung up pad. Check the little silver guides that the pad tabs sit in, are they full of gunk, if so spray them down with some brake cleaner and clean them with a wire brush, sometimes new pads come with new guides. Put the new pads into the guides does the pad move "free" it shouldn't rattle in the guide but it should move free and not get hung up. If they don't move "free" you can always grind a little material off the tab on the pad using a bench grinder, don't go crazy take a little off at a time, I usually flatten the edge of the tab take a couple thousands of an inch off at a time and keep checking them in the guide. If they move free don't take any more material off. When I put them back together I will put a tiny I mean tiny bit of high temp grease in that guide then install the pad again and put it back together.
 
It's normal for brake pads to touch rotors even if you're not using the brakes. Just look out for uneven wear on your pads. If both pads look normal then don't worry about it.
 
Wish someone knew what's up. I don't really know anything much about breaks/callipers/rotors - which is why I was asking.
Unfortunately it appears you know so little about the equipment that you can't even be bothered to spell it correctly. Dealership service departments were made for people like you.

The brake pads are pressed against the rotors by the hydraulic assisted pressure of the brake pedal/booster. This increases pressure on fluid that is already in the brake lines and calipers, and it causes the calipers to squeeze the pads against the rotor. When the vehicle is rolling down the road, the pad can be kissing the surface of the rotor but not cause a noticeable amount of drag because there is no pressure being applied to the brake pads. This is by design, especially on a new car with a fresh set of pads/rotors that don't have much wear on them yet.

As the pads begin to wear, an extremely minute gap can start to show between the surface of the rotor and the surface of the brake pad. This would primarily be noticeable on front pads/rotors.

However, on the rear pads installed in most imports (Accords included), the rear caliper piston is self adjusting and will always keep the pads in tight contact with the rotor. This is so that the e-brake will function, it relies on a cable to pinch the calipers closed. It does not rely on the hydraulic pressure in the lines. This is why the rear pads need to be very close to the surface of the rotor, a larger gap of even just a few thousandths may not allow enough clamping pressure for the e-brake to perform its intended function. This is also why the rear caliper piston needs to be screwed back in to the body of the caliper when replacing rear pads, this resets the self adjusting piston back to zero so that the newer, thicker pads will not drag on the rotors.

TLDR, if you notice a gap between the rear pad and rotor surface, you've probably got a problem, likely a seized rear caliper or a failing brake line. The fact that you see no gap whatsoever is a good thing.
 
Also it may be possible that the last thing someone does before turning the car off is hit the brake. I've always thought the pads retract from the rotor as the rotor wobbles and pushes them away. If you have a gap and close it while the car is stationary, the pads will remain in contact with the rotor. This is why you are instructed not to come to a complete stop when bedding pads, you don't want pads resting on rotor surface while hot
 
So I don't know too much about brakes, but does this seem right? :

Both of the rear brake pads when I look through the alloy wheel have absolutely zero clearance on the disc/rotor. I walked around my apartment complex looking at other new accords and hondas, Seemed most of them had the same thing if they were Accords, the CRV's and Oddessy's had clearance.

The rear rotors have lots of brown rust looking material, and the front rotors do not.

Has anyone heard of this?

Can fellow 9th gen Accord owners go out to their car and see if the rear brake pad it touching the rotor on both or either side? I don't understand how this could be right.

I do sometimes at only certain speeds get that high pitched sound some find hard to hear but I thought that was the CVT. I took it in to shop a year ago about the high pitch, they said something about the breaks and clearance but that they were 'in spec' and normal.

Both of my rear pads are touching, so were other 9th gen accords when I looked through the alloy wheel to see if there was any clearance.

I am suspecting something is off because of the brownish material (dont think it is rust) forming all over the brake assembly. It isn't really bad, but putting two and two together makes me think Honda is again keeping their mouth shut - just like they did on the 8th gen accord rear break pad premature wear class action lawsuit.

Anyone heard of premature wear on rear brake pads of the 9th gen Accords, possibly due to this clearance issue?

I would love to hear feedback from all the 9th gen owners on their clearance, and if they have none or they can tell there is at least a very small space.

It could be normal, but I am skeptical and wanted to check with people more knowledgable about the brake system on the Accord.

Thanks!
These are the types of tools that one would use to measure the clearance from pad to rotor.

Image

Image


As you can see these feeler gauges are very thin.

What you are noticing is actually a good thing.

Now if you go for a nice little drive with some minimal breaking then pull over somewhere and run out and touch your breaks/rotors and they burn your finger as if a hot pan would, there is an issue.

This is why when you hear people say they have bad rotors (warped) they can hear the pads and they screech. It is because the clearance is so tight that the minimal amount of imperfection on a rotor face will now cause rubbing.
 
Don't listen to these other people. Your Breaks are going to cause you to have premature engine and CVT failure and you mpg will drop precipitously due to the added stress of having to accelerate under pressure. Cars are not made for this. A Break line and/or bleeder valve may burst from the heat build up as well. Go To A Dealer ASAP! Tell them you have the dreaded Break Drag and they'll know just what to do. Be sure to check if your warranty covers Breaks because the dealer will try to get you to pay. Just say NO!
 
Don't listen to these other people. Your Breaks are going to cause you to have premature engine and CVT failure and you mpg will drop precipitously due to the added stress of having to accelerate under pressure. Cars are not made for this. A Break line and/or bleeder valve may burst from the heat build up as well. Go To A Dealer ASAP! Tell them you have the dreaded Break Drag and they'll know just what to do. Be sure to check if your warranty covers Breaks because the dealer will try to get you to pay. Just say NO!
lol:grin
 
In general, visually, you will not see any clearance/gap between the rotor surface and the pads. One way to check, if the pads are seized to the rotor or not, is to jack up the car and spin the wheel. Some owners had reported that they didn't see the 2 V-Springs installed on the pads when doing brake works. If you are concern of the pads could be dragging on the rotors, assuming your calipers are not seized, you can add the 2 V-Springs on the pads for each wheel, and that would help un-sticking the pads on the rotor surface. I had made the v-springs out of the hanger wire before, and it worked fine.

This is the Brake Drag Reduction Clips/Springs sample:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-raybestos&gclid=CILIk_bZh84CFQotaQod-HMBvA
 
How much drag is normal for rear wheel bearings and brakes?

I noticed measurable drug when I was servicing the read brakes on my 2013 accord (EXL V6). Some of it was caused by stuck inside calipers. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner fluid and a wire brush. I used a file to remove rust from the calipers where they touch the retainer clips. I used M77 to lubricate the caliper-to-retainer contact points. The drag became smaller but it is still quite noticeable. It is the same for both rear wheels. The parking brake is not engaged (there is no tension in the cords). Rear bearings in my honda civic 09 appear to have much less friction than in the accord.
 
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