[Cls1989]

- looking at purchasing a 2024 Honda Accord with the 1.5L turbo engine

- looking for feedback with respect to reliability on these engines. What common problems should I be aware of?

- I’ve heard about problems with blown head gaskets and oil dilution. I’m not sure how frequent or common these problems are. Were these problems addressed for the 2024MY?

- curious to hear how many miles some people have have reached on their 1.5l turbo and if they experienced any expensive problems such as a blown head gaskets

 

[Xmechanic]

- looking at purchasing a 2024 Honda Accord with the 1.5L turbo engine

- looking for feedback with respect to reliability on these engines. What common problems should I be aware of?

- I’ve heard about problems with blown head gaskets and oil dilution. I’m not sure how frequent or common these problems are. Were these problems addressed for the 2024MY?

- curious to hear how many miles some people have have reached on their 1.5l turbo and if they experienced any expensive problems such as a blown head gaskets

I read a lot of post about head gasket failures on the 1.5 and on u tube post from shops . None of my business what some one buys. Does the new car come with a extended warranty from Honda .. I like turbocharged engines i just dont want to deal with head gasket problems.. May be a 2.l T is ok

 

[LARRY70GS]

- looking at purchasing a 2024 Honda Accord with the 1.5L turbo engine

- looking for feedback with respect to reliability on these engines. What common problems should I be aware of?

- I’ve heard about problems with blown head gaskets and oil dilution. I’m not sure how frequent or common these problems are. Were these problems addressed for the 2024MY?

- curious to hear how many miles some people have have reached on their 1.5l turbo and if they experienced any expensive problems such as a blown head gaskets

I have a Hybrid, but if I opted for the Turbo 1.5, I would run the highest octane fuel I could find, not 87. The biggest cause of head gasket failure is detonation/abnormal combustion. It stretches the head bolts, and lifts the head resulting in gasket blow out.

 

[slimm1469]

I have a Hybrid, but if I opted for the Turbo 1.5, I would run the highest octane fuel I could find, not 87. The biggest cause of head gasket failure is detonation/abnormal combustion. It stretches the head bolts, and lifts the head resulting in gasket blow out.

Interesting. I'm aware of head gasket failures here on DA. This is the first I've heard about the octane level, it makes a lot of sense.

 

[Ash051]

Oil dilution supposedly was remedied by Honda long ago.

It's too early to tell whether or not the 2024, or any 11th gen with the 1.5T, will have head gasket issues.

Personally I'd play it safer by opting for the 2.0 in the hybrid, but that's me.

 

[Accord_Mike]

I wouldn’t necessarily base your conclusions by what you read on these forums. In the 10th gen forum, there was a huge thread about 1.5T head gasket problems by members who had just registered. Not saying there are absolutely no issues, but it seems very suspect that you had all these people come in (all at once) complaining about the issue at that time. After the thread died down, Poof! they were mostly gone. Hmmm.

If maintained properly….regular oil changes, using full synthetic and running top tier fuel of at least midgrade or higher, not driving it like a maniac all the time, the 1.5T should last you a long time. At least as long as the 2.0 hybrid. The head gasket issue seems to be the most prevalent for those that mod their cars heavily (Civic owners) and/or on the early cars that first had that engine.

For me, I didn’t like the drivability of the hybrid or the possible future battery pack replacement expense (when it comes time in the future) so I went with the turbo. I felt the turbo was a lot more responsive at mid to higher speeds. Also, I liked the fact that you can gain a little more power with it (up to 250hp or so) by getting a tune (K-tune/JB4/Phearable). Generally speaking, those tunes are pretty safe if you run the required octane fuel for the tune that you have. With the hybrid, you‘re pretty much stuck at the stock 204hp power level with no option of ever increasing performance. There are a lot 1.5T’s out there on the road right now with no problems (head gaskets issues, etc.) so I feel like I made a good decision for my needs.

 

[PHCH]

To add- Honda made some changes to the 1.5 in 23 for its use in Accord and Civic applications. Turbo has been revised, some internal changes have been made but Japan is quiet about them. Proper oil changes , coolant quality and tier 1 fuel go along way in engine longevity . These are simple and cheap items to take care of

 

[SEIC01]

My 21 LX has just over 99,000 and I’ve had zero engine issues. But 90% of my driving is highway so maybe that helps since I’m not in the stop & go traffic much? Been a great car. Currently running 88 octane and getting 38 mpg.

 

[PHCH]

Acura just put into the new ADX so they seem confident

 

[GoLowDrew]

Learning about the 1.5T also. I understand and yet don't understand the idea of using premium on turbo engines. If an engine is tuned to run on 87, then there shouldn't be any concerns about detonation, correct?

In GM's 2.7L turbo (truck engine), it specifically said that it's tuned to use 87. Not that it's ok to use 87. The same engine on a Cadillac CT5, it would say recommend 93 and ok with 87, if 93 is not available. Even with that, doesn't the computer adjust automatically?

 

[LARRY70GS]

Learning about the 1.5T also. I understand and yet don't understand the idea of using premium on turbo engines. If an engine is tuned to run on 87, then there shouldn't be any concerns about detonation, correct?

In GM's 2.7L turbo (truck engine), it specifically said that it's tuned to use 87. Not that it's ok to use 87. The same engine on a Cadillac CT5, it would say recommend 93 and ok with 87, if 93 is not available. Even with that, doesn't the computer adjust automatically?

Theoretically, the knock sensors should detect abnormal combustion and pull timing to protect the engine. In the real world, it may not be enough to prevent damage. Get the engine really hot, and get on it, and you might have a problem. The more boost, the higher the cylinder pressure, the more fuel you need. Have an injector not flowing what it should, and the cylinder goes lean, that can induce detonation as well. I’d be running 93 or 94 if I had the 1.5T.

 

[Accord_Mike]

Theoretically, the knock sensors should detect abnormal combustion and pull timing to protect the engine. In the real world, it may not be enough to prevent damage. Get the engine really hot, and get on it, and you might have a problem. The more boost, the higher the cylinder pressure, the more fuel you need. Have an injector not flowing what it should, and the cylinder goes lean, that can induce detonation as well. I’d be running 93 or 94 if I had the 1.5T.

The 1.5T generally runs fairly cool for an engine. In fact, there were some issues of it running too cool on past models in certain cold ambient conditions. The engine never warms up. However, I think as long as you run 91 or better, you should be good. Even the 2.0L in the hybrid model probably could benefit from running mid-grade or higher. All direct injection engines can suffer from LSPI (low speed pre-ignition).

 

[LARRY70GS]

The 1.5T generally runs fairly cool for an engine. In fact, there were some issues of it running too cool on past models in certain cold ambient conditions. The engine never warms up. However, I think as long as you run 91 or better, you should be good. Even the 2.0L in the hybrid model probably could benefit from running mid-grade or higher. All direct injection engines can suffer from LSPI (low speed pre-ignition).

Yes, I've been running 93 for awhile now because of that. I only do 7000/year, and fuel up once a month, so it's no big deal. Cheap insurance.

Mike, are you using a scan tool to read the engine coolant temperature sensor? Wonder what thermostat Honda uses? Looking at Rock Auto, looks like 180* for the Hybrid, and 172* for the 1.5T. No wonder it runs cool. Most car engines use 195* stats.

Pretty expensive thermostat!

More Information for MOTORAD 1416172

Hybrid is still expensive, but less than half the cost.

More Information for MOTORAD 1234180

Boost makes heat. I'm sure you can notice a performance difference between a cold Winter day, and Hot Summer temperatures as far as intercooler efficiency.

 

[Fredsvt]

Honda has typically used thermostats that start to open at 80*C and fully open at 90*C. It basically results in an engine, running down the road in most conditions they run 185-190. The 1.5t is a bit different, which I haven't confirmed, they run the same temp, but when used hard, and the car brought to a stop, they can heat soak to where the temp climbs in the red zone of the gauge (imo, WAY too hot). The '22 CRV's manual mentions this can happen, but I've never experienced it. The fans in most Honda cars/trucks turn on at 203 to 215, no hotter.

The performance difference in different ambients isn't just due to intercooler issues. Honda has always tuned VERY conservatively for hot temps. As an example, my S2000 will not rev, basically bogs badly once ambient temps on start up are over 80, higher it's worse. If the car is allowed to sit at idle too long and the intake temps climb, it gets even doggier. It's a completely different car in temps from freezing to about 70 degrees ambient.

My '24 ITS gets very slightly boggy if I don't rev it a little starting from a stop once it's mid 80s and up. I always try to keep the revs over 2k unless I'm just cruising along in traffic to keep it from going into boost at low rpm.

 

[SEIC01]

I have a 21 LX and I usually run 88 octane and the car seems to run better on that and it’s .15 a gallon cheaper than 87. I’ve been getting between 35-38 mpg on the highway running at 80 mph. Being up in northern IL the winters suck with this car. It takes so long to warm it up. I can let it run for 10mins and it’s warm enough the defrost the windshield but won’t get hot till it’s gets moving. About to hit 100,000 miles this week and will most likely sell it. I miss being in a truck where I can see what’s going on around me but I will miss the great gas mileage.

 

[Xmechanic]

I have a 21 LX and I usually run 88 octane and the car seems to run better on that and it’s .15 a gallon cheaper than 87. I’ve been getting between 35-38 mpg on the highway running at 80 mph. Being up in northern IL the winters suck with this car. It takes so long to warm it up. I can let it run for 10mins and it’s warm enough the defrost the windshield but won’t get hot till it’s gets moving. About to hit 100,000 miles this week and will most likely sell it. I miss being in a truck where I can see what’s going on around me but I will miss the great gas mileage.

Sounds like good mileage..

 

[LARRY70GS]

I have a 21 LX and I usually run 88 octane and the car seems to run better on that and it’s .15 a gallon cheaper than 87. I’ve been getting between 35-38 mpg on the highway running at 80 mph. Being up in northern IL the winters suck with this car. It takes so long to warm it up. I can let it run for 10mins and it’s warm enough the defrost the windshield but won’t get hot till it’s gets moving. About to hit 100,000 miles this week and will most likely sell it. I miss being in a truck where I can see what’s going on around me but I will miss the great gas mileage.

That's great fuel economy. 88 octane fuel (E15) has 15% ethanol instead of the common 10% ethanol. I'd expect slightly less MPG than 87 octane regular (E10).

E15 Fuel Information - Iowa Renewable Fuels Association

Did you know that there has been more testing of E15 than any other fuel additive? Find out more E15 fuel facts provided by Iowa Renewable Fuels Association.

iowarfa.org