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how long to let engine cool down in order to install rv6 downpipe?

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g1rv

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys im new to these forums so please forgive me but I just received my rv6 downpipe and I cant install it at my apartment. the closest safe location where i have access to is about a 15 minute 9 mile drive. how long should i wait for the engine to cool down before burning myself on the downpipe? I waited an hour the other day and it was still hot. Any advice or recommedations?

Also i have a 6 speed manual 16 sport with 41k miles so the bolts that connect the pcd to the exhaust are pretty rusted im hoping pb blaster works well. any tips/tricks would be appreciated thanks everyone happy holidays
 
#2 ·
Not sure if you live in Miami or Los Angeles- or in St. Paul, MN, but you want the engine STONE COLD before you start removing or tightening bolts. If not, you run the risk of stripping threads- and a 1 hour job is now a 3 hour job. Experienced techs in exhaust shops know how to use a torch to heat up the area around a bolt, how to use impact drivers and air tools, etc. to minimize damage. Hand tools may actually be a disadvantage in hot exhaust work.

Stone cold could be 3 hours....

As for loosening rusted bolts- many forums swear by certain products. A mixture of acetone AND automatic transmission fluid is always the highest rated (Google it if you don't believe me). Good planners may add drops each day for two weeks before the work is done. One week may work too. Heck, some get lucky with less time than that.

You know who is not "lucky" in removing rusted fasteners? ME! If I have two weeks, I will have to add drops everyday for two weeks. PB Blaster is better than nothing, but there are better products (Google it).
 
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#3 ·
g1rv said:
Hey guys im new to these forums so please forgive me but I just received my rv6 downpipe and I cant install it at my apartment. the closest safe location where i have access to is about a 15 minute 9 mile drive. how long should i wait for the engine to cool down before burning myself on the downpipe? I waited an hour the other day and it was still hot. Any advice or recommedations?

Also i have a 6 speed manual 16 sport with 41k miles so the bolts that connect the pcd to the exhaust are pretty rusted im hoping pb blaster works well. any tips/tricks would be appreciated thanks everyone happy holidays
Click to expand...
Welcome aboard. For your i4, it should take 2-3 hours. The stock cat gets very hot so you need to give it some time to cool down. You can put a fan in front of the car to speed up the process, don't focus the fan on the engine bay, put it in front of the bumper. Obviously leave the hood wide open. Spray PB blaster on the bolts and let it sit the night before you install the downpipe. 6 point sockets are crucial for these bolts, do not use 12 point sockets. I used a breaker bar to break the bolts loose but impact will make it super easy. Make sure to put anti-seize on the bolts when you reinstall them.

Don't worry, its not difficult to swap the downpipe.
 
#5 ·
MrRangerZr1 said:
Make sure to put anti-seize on the bolts when you reinstall them.
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Oops. When I installed my PCD, the only thing I applied anti-seize to was the downstream O2 sensor. Should I have applied it to every bolt including the lower three studs that came with the PCD? Also, with winter around the corner, do you think I should reinstall the PCD using anti-seize on everything this time? Definitely don’t want anything seizing together in case I need to swap back.

OP - these guys above nailed it. It’s better to wait and do it the right way rather than rush and cause a headache down the line. I let my car sit overnight and waited until the morning to install mine.
 
#6 ·
17wop6mtcr2 said:
Oops. When I installed my PCD, the only thing I applied anti-seize to was the downstream O2 sensor. Should I have applied it to every bolt including the lower three studs that came with the PCD? Also, with winter around the corner, do you think I should reinstall the PCD using anti-seize on everything this time? Definitely don’t want anything seizing together in case I need to swap back.

OP - these guys above nailed it. It’s better to wait and do it the right way rather than rush and cause a headache down the line. I let my car sit overnight and waited until the morning to install mine.
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Would be a good idea to do that especially for you folks in the snow.
 
#8 ·
Graycar said:
What the OP is doing may be a violation of state and local emissions tampering laws and will contribute to air pollution. Just ask the Chinese what it is like to breath dirty air.
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He would definitely be in violation of Federal law, he just needs to know that he may end up with a check engine light that may not ever turn off. Lots of threads on this, but I wish him well on his endeavors to go faster. Not sure it is worth the money , time and trouble.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
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#14 ·
dfwxjer said:
I've always assumed these downpipes were a waste of time, and now it's been confirmed.

OP: can you return this without wasting an afternoon ruining your car?
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I don't believe they're a waste......... they free up some air flow with the bigger pipe and no cat.
 
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