[BrandonPham]

Very bad start problems, sometimes it doesn't even make contact with the gear. After looking into it, my starter and flywheel both have chipped teeth.

Any recommendations on how I should go about repair, replace both starter and flywheel or is there another option ?

Also where should I go, I have friends who work at advanced auto parts but the 07 accord I4 I drive is too new for them to have a flywheel. They only have the starter. My bet for getting a flywheel is probably the nearest Honda stealership.

 

[Accordriver]

Pictures? From the sound of it I would say your best option is to replace both. Are you sure you want to replace that flywheel yourself? That's alot of work.

 

[BrandonPham]

Definitely not replacing myself, my friends all own an auto shop so they'll help me out. Gonna have to drop the tranny. I can't get pics right now since everything is bolted back in but once I go through the process I will.

Any word on where I can get a flywheel ?

 

[Fredsvt]

In a 2007, the flywheel is under the 5/60k warranty if you're still in it.

They should warranty it as long as nothing looks too badly tampered with. Bring it in and tell them that it's grinding when you try and start it.

 

[BrandonPham]

Problem is, my 2007 has 121k....

 

[Fredsvt]

Well, that does present a problem.
If it's an automatic, the only place you can get it is the dealer. At your mileage it would be something that's a real toss up to change.

To replace the ring gear, you'll need a torque converter as its welded to it. There's a choice of two. Neither is inexpensive.

can you post your vin?

I did an alternate search, if its a stick, the flywheel is 22100-RAA-J01 $322 list price. Less online, but shipping would be steep due to the weight. You'd also need the pilot bearing, and depending on the condition of the clutch....

And yes, replace both.

The starter is probably what caused the ring gear damage, as its drive isn't coming out quite right. Make very sure you have a good battery and good cables. Voltage loss can slow the starter to a point where it may not engage properly.

Now, before doing any work, check crankshaft thrust play. Get a pry bar, and gently try prying between the front crank pulley and front cover. Then go between the frame rail and pulley and push it back towards the motor. Repeat trying to pry it away from the timing cover, how much, if any movement do you see?

 

[BrandonPham]

Will do tomorrow when its light out.

Just a question, would you recommend junk yard ? I've found a 2003 4 Cylinder Accord LX Flywheel for $30 shipped. All the flywheels for the 7th gen accord's on this seller's ebay junkyard store go for 30 shipped.

 

[Fredsvt]

Just make sure that the part numbers are the same. Honda loves to make revisions through model runs.

If it's an automatic NO. The torque converter is something you don't want to be changing, then finding out it's bad or wrong, since there's a choice of two based on vin.

 

[BrandonPham]

Damn seriously ? I have an automatic, 2007 Honda Accord SE I4. I'll get the vin tomorrow, its freezing out in NJ as I'm sure you can relate.

Very much appreciate the help.

 

[BrandonPham]

Sorry I forgot to post this but I got my VIN, finally.

1HGCM56377A004178

 

[Fredsvt]

I looked up your vin, and they still show two different converters. I'm going to assume they are going to have to go by the trans the car was built with

Both have nearly the same part number 26000-RAA-405 or -406

The -405 converter lists at $568.75
The -406 converter lists at $836.27

Neither is cheap, which is one reason why at the mileage you have, is it worth it to put a converter in it instead of a trans since it has to come all the way out anyway to change the converter. You may want to go with a used trans that has some sort of warranty. Also, check the thrust bearing for excessive play, as I've not seen any issues with missing/broken teeth on the ring gear with either engine.

I looked up to see if there was any bulletins regarding the starter or ring gear/converter issues with your car and couldn't find any.

 

[BrandonPham]

Well maybe I should of stated this but the problem started, I BELIEVE, from when I was doing my foggies, i jumped in the car to turn it on and check to see if they were working, I accidentally started the car while running. After that, I believe the grinding occured. Does that make any difference or am I looking at simply another tranny ? If thats the case I'll go with a used manual one possibly but I'm trying to do this the cheapest way possible, sticking with auto is fine.

 

[Fredsvt]

well, yes, if you held it long enough it can damage multiple teeth.

You'll still need a new torque converter and starter at the minimum.

Doing a manual conversion isn't cheap or easy, even if you do it yourself, and since you're in Jersey, an emissions inspection will become extremely problematic.

 

[BrandonPham]

No matter how I look at this price is killing me. One of my mechanics said simply that I needed a new flywheel and started but I said I'd get back to him. At this point, what do you recommend ?

 

[SatinSilver]

^ What's your budget? Then Fred can better answer that.

 

[Fredsvt]

Brandon

You have pretty much no choice, the cheapest and most minimum wold be a new torque converter and starter. I'd not trust the starter after it's been meshing with damaged ring gear teeth.

There is NO flywheel on this motor when equipped with an auto trans. Just a stamped steel flexplate, that bolts to the crankshaft and then to the front of the torque converter which has the starter ring gear welded to it.

 

[BrandonPham]

Bringing this back one more time. So I managed to grab a brand new torque converter from Cali. Total came out to $275 which is not bad.

Now what my boy, owner of his own auto shop, told me is that I should get a new starter as well as both were eating teeth since its been going on for a bit.

So $100 or so for the starter, 275 for the torque converter, and $400 for labor. 800ish roughly. Sound decently priced ?

 

[Fredsvt]

$400 for labor is dirt cheap for the huge amount of work involved to do the work.