[EastCoaster]

I replaced my rear rotors and pads and now there is no parking brake. I checked to make sure that both cables were still attached to the calipers which they are. Does it need adjustment when new brakes are installed? :dunno:

 

[mobiless2]

Did you rotate piston in or push it in?

 

[Edaccord08]

you might of damaged the screw mechanism in the piston .
You have to screw the pistons in on rear brake calipers that have built in e-brakes .
take the calipers off and see if you have gap between pads and rotors with car lifted, wheel off .
you could try and rotate the pistons, they maybe just stuck .

Does e-brake move or it just doesn't stop car .

 

[Aviography]

Also make sure the cross slots on the piston face are aligned with the pips on the back of the inboard brake pad.

 

[EastCoaster]

Did you rotate piston in or push it in?

I screwed them in clockwise.

 

[EastCoaster]

you might of damaged the screw mechanism in the piston .
You have to screw the pistons in on rear brake calipers that have built in e-brakes .
take the calipers off and see if you have gap between pads and rotors with car lifted, wheel off .
you could try and rotate the pistons, they maybe just stuck .

Does e-brake move or it just doesn't stop car .

The e-brake moves without any resistance and no stoping force.

 

[EastCoaster]

Also make sure the cross slots on the piston face are aligned with the pips on the back of the inboard brake pad.

That I didn't know or do.

 

[Edaccord08]

That I didn't know or do.

Yes, check that, that brake pad is engaged in the piston grove .
there should be no real gap between piston , pad and rotor .
Just a few thousand of inch on rotor .

 

[EastCoaster]

Yes, check that, that brake pad is engaged in the piston grove .
there should be no real gap between piston , pad and rotor .
Just a few thousand of inch on rotor .

Thanks. I will double check that:thmsup:

 

[EastCoaster]

I haven't had the time to take the pads off yet and fit the pad in the piston correctly. I'm assuming once I take it apart it should be simple to see what needs to be done with the piston and how it needs to be aligned or how the cross grooves need to be turned to match the pad. If anyone has a pic that would be perfect :thmsup:
Also when I'm ready to change the front pads are the front pistons just pushed in, not turned in?

 

[reframmellator]

Front pistons retract normally - i.e., don't screw in.

When you remove the rears, it will be obvious what has to happen. There should be two small pins at 12 and 6 in the center of the piston side of the pad. Those pins fit into one of the grooves on the piston.

There is an e-brake adjustment procedure. On the Gen 7s you have to remove the rear cover of the console and use a deep socket to adjust a nut - I think it's 12 mm, but don't quote me on that.

 

[Calamity Coyote]

When I did my rear brakes last, I rotated the piston in like you are suppose to do. After, the e-brake did not engage like you are saying. I remember being told that these self adjust by pulling repeatedly up and down on the e-brake handle. Sure enough, after a few times, it started to stiffen up. Have you done that?

 

[EastCoaster]

When I did my rear brakes last, I rotated the piston in like you are suppose to do. After, the e-brake did not engage like you are saying. I remember being told that these self adjust by pulling repeatedly up and down on the e-brake handle. Sure enough, after a few times, it started to stiffen up. Have you done that?

Yes I did and it stiffened up and applies the rear brakes and stops the car from rolling but doesn't lock up the rear tires. They aren't grabbing tight enough.

 

[Edaccord08]

sometimes the self adjuster screw mechanism gets frozen .
I would now pull each caliper noteing how tight piston and pad are to rotor .

They should be tight, with just slight gap for rotor to spin .

You could try backing piston out as far as you can while still being able to get it on (spinning piston in an out might help a bit) .

After that do a few hard brake presses backward and then apply hand brake few times .
If you find handbrake goes up to many clicks (like 10+) before stopping you can adjust that under console . I forget how many clicks are normal (7-9 but manual has that in there ) .

 

[Calamity Coyote]

Yes I did and it stiffened up and applies the rear brakes and stops the car from rolling but doesn't lock up the rear tires. They aren't grabbing tight enough.

Their is also a procedure to adjust the parking brake. Like mentioned earlier, you have to remove the back of the center console to get to the adjustment nut. According to the manual, you should raise back of vehicle to get the wheels off the ground, pull brake one click, then tighten nut until brakes just start to drag. Release brake to make sure brakes no longer drag. So you may just need to do a slight adjustment.

 

[EastCoaster]

Their is also a procedure to adjust the parking brake. Like mentioned earlier, you have to remove the back of the center console to get to the adjustment nut. According to the manual, you should raise back of vehicle to get the wheels off the ground, pull brake one click, then tighten nut until brakes just start to drag. Release brake to make sure brakes no longer drag. So you may just need to do a slight adjustment.

I had a chance to replace my front pads this morning and also removed both rear tires to recheck both cables just to make sure everything was connected and working when the brake lever is pulled and engaged. So when I first changed the rear brakes and engaged the parking brake I could turn the rear tires by hand. Now the lever clicks with resistance and I can turn the rear tires but with force because the pads are grabbing now but when engaged fully I can get the car rolling when in drive or reverse. I didn't remove the caliper and align the rear pads with the piston yet but I did remove the plastic piece behind the console in the back seat and can see 2 cables and lifted the flap of carpet that is over the cables and there is no adjustment nut there at all.:dunno:

 

[Aviography]

I had a chance to replace my front pads this morning and also removed both rear tires to recheck both cables just to make sure everything was connected and working when the brake lever is pulled and engaged. So when I first changed the rear brakes and engaged the parking brake I could turn the rear tires by hand. Now the lever clicks with resistance and I can turn the rear tires but with force because the pads are grabbing now but when engaged fully I can get the car rolling when in drive or reverse. I didn't remove the caliper and align the rear pads with the piston yet but I did remove the plastic piece behind the console in the back seat and can see 2 cables and lifted the flap of carpet that is over the cables and there is no adjustment nut there at all.:dunno:

Why wouldn't you check the piston/pad alignment if you went as far as removing the rear tires? :dunno:

Suggest you check all aspects of the installation first, alignment of the pips I (and others) mentioned before is an important factor, else the pads will sit at an angle and not fully contact the rotor surface, which could explain the issues you are having.

Is your car manual or automatic? Put the car in gear when parked if it's a manual then there should be no issues of the car rolling away from you, although bad installation also means your front brake will have to do even more work, and the rear pads will wear unevenly until the steel backing plate rubs against the rotor, this will gouge into the rotor and ruin it.

CHECK THE REAR CALIPER PISTON TO REAR BRAKE PAD ALIGNMENT.

 

[Edaccord08]

Get the manual for vehicle, you can DL off internet "
08-10 honda accord sm.pdf"

You will see parking brake is adjusted from that rear panel , there is a nut were the 2 cables come together .

here a link (hope its ok posting this ) .

http://www.4shared.com/office/_RuD0YOSce/08-10_honda_accord_sm.html

your going to have to remove the 2 slider bolts to check pads and piston are in right alignment .

 

[EastCoaster]

Why wouldn't you check the piston/pad alignment if you went as far as removing the rear tires? :dunno:

The truth INSANITY really :wave:

I have the caliper off right now and looking at the inboard pad against the piston installed the are 2 pips, one at 9 o'clock and one at 1 o'clock. The only one that seems that would come into contact with the piston would be the one at the 9 o'clock position. With the first caliper off it seems like the piston is in its correct position with its groove turned the right way so when it slides over both pads it fits inside the groove. There is just enough space to slide it back on because I didn't adjust the piston and the pads are just resting against the rotor with no drag.

 

[EastCoaster]

Get the manual for vehicle, you can DL off internet "
08-10 honda accord sm.pdf"

You will see parking brake is adjusted from that rear panel , there is a nut were the 2 cables come together .

here a link (hope its ok posting this ) .

http://www.4shared.com/office/_RuD0YOSce/08-10_honda_accord_sm.html

your going to have to remove the 2 slider bolts to check pads and piston are in right alignment .

Thanks for the link :thmsup:
I'm just finishing removing both rear calipers and both pads were aligned correctly. Both pistons when looking at the piston and sliding it into to place the cross grooves are at 12-3-6-9 and only slide over one pip on the inboard pad at the 9 o'clock position.