[Richyt73]

Hello everyone im new here but not new to cars. I have a 1997 honda accord. Having some issues with my brake pedal not getting pressure. When the car is off it has a good stiff pedal but when the car is on it goes straight to the floor. It broke a line the other day and after fixing it i have no brakes. I have bled all lines in an x diagram. I have beld the abs pump and have replaced and bled the master cylinder. Anyone know where to go from there?

 

[greg1c]

I assume everything was ok until the line 'broke". Did you replace line? How did you replace it?

To me it sounds like you either still have a leak or air still in the system.

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[Richyt73]

I did replace the line by cutting out the old rusted part of the line and compression fitting new line in. Yes everything was ok before it broke. There are zero leaks. Iv bled the brakes probably 6 times now.

 

[greg1c]

Which line was the one you repaired?

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[Richyt73]

The hard line that runs to the rubber line that goes to the passenger rear caliper

 

[greg1c]

Ok, that is the longest run, I would assume you had 2 people to do the bleeding. I am further going to assume you know how to bleed brakes. If you have bled the brakes that many times you should have completely replaced the fluid with new by now. Always start with the longest brake line run and go to the next longest. I assume this is rear drum brakes? Have you pulled the rear drums and made sure the wheel cylinders are not leaking? You may want to rebuild those rear cylinders, it is easy.

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[Richyt73]

All 4 disk brakes. I have bled them in an x shape starting with passenger rear then drivers front then drivers rear and then passengers front

 

[greg1c]

It would be helpful to do each circuit separately. The master cylinder is divided front and rear.

Beginning in 1998, Accord ABS no longer has a separate fluid reservoir, and no longer has a separate bleeding sequence. Bleeding the main brake system pushes fluid through the newer ABS system and no additional bleeding is required. Bleeding order for the the car is LF-RF-RR-LR.

The only other thing would be a bad master cylinder, they can leak brake fluid into the vacuum brake booster and you never see the fluid.


Oops just saw this is a 1997, that requires a different procedure. You have to bleed the ABS unit as well. Make sure there are no leaks at the ABS unit.

Bleeding ABS on Accord up through 1997

The rubber cap for the ABS bleed screw while the bleeder itself isn't given a tag. Find a hose that fits well on the bleeder, & keep it under control while bleeding. Open the bleeder slowly, only just far enough to begin flow. There's enough pressure to cut through your skin if you're not careful.

1) After running the car, turn it off & fill the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.

2) Open the bleeder carefully; turn it off immediately when fluid stops flowing.
3) Run the engine for a few seconds; turn if off after the ABS pump stops running.
4) Refil the ABS reservoir to the MAX mark.

5) REPEAT steps 2-4 several times until there's no more air bubbles coming out.
6) Replace all the caps & lids

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[Richyt73]

Ok i believe i was bleeding the abs pump incorrectly so i will try that procedure and let you know what happens.

 

[Richyt73]

Iv tried the procedure mentioned to bleed the abs. No air came out at all and still no pressure unless pumped up and goes away if you let off for even a second.

 

[Richyt73]

A friend that was helping me bleed the brakes said he could not get the rear caliper bleeders on both sides to break loose. So he was bleeding them thru the rubber hydraulic lines. Is it possible i still have air in the rear calipers?

 

[greg1c]

That bleeds the lines, but not the calipers, there is no good way to keep air out doing it that way. If the bleeders are frozen, you may have to drill them out or replace the calipers.

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[Richyt73]

I was just talking about drilling them out and getting new bleeders. Calipers are over $100 each at my parts store.

 

[OG_Zuninja]

Why not try some penetrating lube on those bleeders? PB Blaster comes to mind. Spray it on, let it sit and then use the appropriate flare nut wrench to break them loose. Using an open ended wrench will likely round them off. No flare nut wrench? Use a box end. I would suggest getting new bleeders for next time you need to work on your brakes since calipers seem to be out of your price range. As for bleeding, the x pattern you describe should be RR, LR, RF, LF. Basically, furthest to closest like has already been mentioned in this thread. Bleeding the disconnected lines and not at the calipers will continue to introduce air in the system and cause your pedal pressure to be trash like you are experiencing.