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k1ngkev1n1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
is it ok to the have the tire at 50 psi? my tire pressure monitor came on and just filled it up to about 50psi each tire. light is still on im guessing i nee dto recalibrate.
 
is it ok to the have the tire at 50 psi? my tire pressure monitor came on and just filled it up to about 50psi each tire. light is still on im guessing i nee dto recalibrate.
Ouch.... yeah man thats the max PSI of the tire not what the car requires, I bet your car rides like a tank now. set them to 32 psi.

Open the drivers door, and on the door jamb there should be a sticker with tire info. Always set tires to this, never the max psi of the tire.

I just got my accord but I would guess its around 32. After confirming the tire pressure then run a TPMS calibrate IF your light is still on.
 
Drain all your tire pressure back down to 33/32 psi (assuming you have the OEM Michelin/Goodyear) and reset the TPMS by holding the button down for a few sec.

Light should blink and turn off.

The button is between the ECON button and the Hood release lever.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ouch.... yeah man thats the max PSI of the tire not what the car requires, I bet your car rides like a tank now. set them to 32 psi.

Open the drivers door, and on the door jamb there should be a sticker with tire info. Always set tires to this, never the max psi of the tire.

I just got my accord but I would guess its around 32. After confirming the tire pressure then run a TPMS calibrate IF your light is still on.
ok ill change after work i just drove a couple blocks. I didnt know what to set it at the tpms light came on so i just added to the tires. ill reset everything to around 33 psi

Drain all your tire pressure back down to 33/32 psi (assuming you have the OEM Michelin/Goodyear) and reset the TPMS by holding the button down for a few sec.
Light should blink and turn off.

The button is between the ECON button and the Hood release lever.
ok thanks i didnt know how to do that. also is there a way to see which tire is bringing the light on?
 
ok ill change after work i just drove a couple blocks. I didnt know what to set it at the tpms light came on so i just added to the tires. ill reset everything to around 33 psi
The badge of "51 psi max" is the Manufacturers tested & approved pressure load the tire is capable of holding.

Anything beyond that is KABOOM!!! :lmao:
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
The badge of "51 psi max" is the Manufacturers tested SAE approved pressure load the tire is capable of holding.

Anything beyond that is KABOOM!!! :lmao:
lol dam can i drive on 50 psi or will my tired blow up? :thumbsup:

ALso will warranty cover the blown up tires? :)
 
lol dam can i drive on 50 psi or will my tired blow up? :thumbsup:

ALso will warranty cover the blown up tires? :)
I don't think the tires are warrantied by Honda because it's wear & tear. (could be wrong)

Maybe the manufacturer.

Blowing out your tire while driving or even freeway driving will do a lot more damage than just your tire.....(bumper, wheel-well lining, etc.)
 
Blowing out your tire while driving or even freeway driving will do a lot more damage than just your tire.....(bumper, wheel-well lining, etc.)
Not to mention risking lives? So yeah, there's that too.
 
Tires have their own warranty. Still no answer on "why the F would you do that" so I guess we can assume "cause I don't know what the F I'm doing".

To answer the question can you see which tire is low? No.

Our unsophisticated yet inexpensive TPMS uses ABS and ESC sensors to detect a difference in rotational speeds of a low tire compared to the other full tires to alarm.

It is not a direct measurement like most systems that require TPMS sensors in the wheel (we don't have those). You'd think that the software could still tell you which tire is low like the other wheel based systems.

Bear in mind, our fairly crude system only measures rotational differences. If all 4 tires are at 5 PSI, our system will never alarm. Moreover, I did the test 2 years ago and it needs to be down about 10 PSI before it will alarm (that's why I call it crude).
 
Bear in mind, our fairly crude system only measures rotational differences. If all 4 tires are at 5 PSI, our system will never alarm. Moreover, I did the test 2 years ago and it needs to be down about 10 PSI before it will alarm (that's why I call it crude).
10psi!!!? Wow so the system is a bit useless then, but of course no costly TPMS sensors.

I'm coming from a Ridgeline with TPMS sensors in the tires with location indicators. It worked very well and even after 8 years the system still worked well. It was just a matter of time before the batteries died in those sensors though. I believe the light would activate at 26psi, and turn off at 28 if I remember correctly. Much more useable.

To be quite honest I don't really care for the TPMS system. I check my tire pressures monthly anyway, as I'm sure all of you guys do too.

Of course not everyone is like us.
 
I've never ever seen the TPMS light on my car (except when reflashing the ecu) because I maintain my car and regularly check the tire pressure.

Running at close to the max PSI is extremely dangerous. All it would take is one pothole to cause a blowout and losing a drive tire will likely put you into whatever is next to you: another car, a wall, etc. Assuming you don't cause a massive multi-vehicle accident, you're talking thousands of dollars in damage to the rim, suspension, rotors, quarter panel, bumper, etc. It's just a bad bad situation that you don't want to put yourself in.
 
Not trying to throw a wrench in this, but if you would have read your owners manual, Checking and Maintaining Tires starting on page 524 would have answered your question. Yes, this forum is here to help, but it wouldn't have been needed.

WARNING
Using tires that are excessively worn or
improperly inflated can cause a crash in
which you can be seriously hurt or killed.
Follow all instructions in this owner’s
manual regarding tire inflation and
maintenance.

Measure the air pressure when tires are cold. This
means the vehicle has been parked for at least three
hours, or driven less than 1 mile (1.6 km). If
necessary, add or release air until the specified
pressure is reached.
If checked when hot, tire pressure can be as much as
4–6 psi (30–40 kPa, 0.3–0.4 kgf/cm2) higher than if
checked when cold.
Whenever tire pressure is adjusted, you must
calibrate the TPMS.
TPMS Calibration P. 468
Have a dealer check the tires if you feel a consistent
vibration while driving. New tires and any that have
been removed and reinstalled should be properly
balanced.

Tire and Loading Information Label

The label attached to the driver’s doorjamb provides necessary tire and loading
information.
 
I have a 2014 Touring and the door sticker says 33/33psi. I have Michelin Primacy 17 inch tires. I see others in this thread state 33/32psi. Are those numbers for a 4 cylinder?Why does the Touring require different (although slight) pressure in the rear tires? Thanks.
 
Yes, depending on the model of your vehicle, whether it's the 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder, the load ratings are different.

The answer again, is on page 524 of the manual.

Tire and Loading Information Label
The tire and loading information label attached to the
driver’s doorjamb contains:

a. The number of people your vehicle can carry.
b. The total weight your vehicle can carry. Do not
exceed this weight.
c. The original tire sizes for front, rear, and spare.
d. The proper cold tire pressure for front, rear, and
spare.
 
32-33 psi is all right. But for better fuel efficiency I'd fill it up to 40 psi.
 
32-33 psi is all right. But for better fuel efficiency I'd fill it up to 40 psi.
Would you get uneven tire wear ? If so, that may negate any fuel savings if you have to change the tires out a lot sooner than if you had them at factory spec (assuming you even keep this car that long).
 
I check my tire pressure on a weekly basis. My 14 year old Frontier maintains tire pressure pretty well from week to week unless there is a temperature change. The EX is off about 1/2 psi almost every week I check them. I have never recalibrated my TPMS. As often as I put air in the tires I would probably wear the reset out in time. If I take a road trip I'll reset it then.
 
10psi!!!? Wow so the system is a bit useless then, but of course no costly TPMS sensors.

I'm coming from a Ridgeline with TPMS sensors in the tires with location indicators. It worked very well and even after 8 years the system still worked well. It was just a matter of time before the batteries died in those sensors though. I believe the light would activate at 26psi, and turn off at 28 if I remember correctly. Much more useable.

To be quite honest I don't really care for the TPMS system. I check my tire pressures monthly anyway, as I'm sure all of you guys do too.

Of course not everyone is like us.
I linked my original thread and to be more accurate, it's 8 PSI not 10. First two posts are short. I like a wheel based system that can give a digital dash read out of each tire and alert you as to which tire is the culprit. Our system meets the letter of the law and that's about it.

Yes, depending on the model of your vehicle, whether it's the 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder, the load ratings are different.

The answer again, is on page 524 of the manual.

Tire and Loading Information Label
The tire and loading information label attached to the
driver’s doorjamb contains:

a. The number of people your vehicle can carry.
b. The total weight your vehicle can carry. Do not
exceed this weight.
c. The original tire sizes for front, rear, and spare.
d. The proper cold tire pressure for front, rear, and
spare.
Several MBs I've owned list a table of tire pressures based on the number of passengers and speed. Funny, zMB gives that information (required by law) but if you look in the manual to find out what weight oil to use, it says "See Dealer".
 
I've tried a few settings and settled on Honda's recommendation.

Your speedometer may be slightly inaccurate if you deviate from Honda's suggestion. Take that as you will.
 
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