My 2008 accord is already 14 years old. Didn't feel like dropping ~$1k on a possible fix to the cold start rattle noise. Half of the people say that the VTC rattle won't damage your engine. which is even less incentive to drop $1k on fixing it. However, the rattle/grinding noise was driving me crazy. I toyed with the idea of changing the VTC actuator myself. It is kind of intimidating, since you have to deal with the timing of the engine. Anyway, after searching the Internet for a long time, I've come across a DIY solution that is simple. I plan to try it soon, but thought I would share. You don't have to mess with the timing chain and only need to uncompress the spring that is inside of the VTC actuator. You don't even need to remove the VTC actuator. No parts are required. All the credit for this fix goes to the two youtubers in the links below:
Simple DIY VTC Actuator Fix for cold start rattle/grind noise
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poppy123
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My 2008 accord is already 14 years old. Didn't feel like dropping ~$1k on a possible fix to the cold start rattle noise. Half of the people say that the VTC rattle won't damage your engine. which is even less incentive to drop $1k on fixing it. However, the rattle/grinding noise was driving me crazy. I toyed with the idea of changing the VTC actuator myself. It is kind of intimidating, since you have to deal with the timing of the engine. Anyway, after searching the Internet for a long time, I've come across a DIY solution that is simple. I plan to try it soon, but thought I would share. You don't have to mess with the timing chain and only need to uncompress the spring that is inside of the VTC actuator. You don't even need to remove the VTC actuator. No parts are required. All the credit for this fix goes to the two youtubers in the links below:
This is a temporary fix at best.
Also, since you plan on DIYing this, it only cost you around $200 for all the parts (including the sparkplug gaskets and the valve cover gasket). You'll get revised VTC gear that prevent this from happening in the first place.
If you are gonna attempt this:
The R40 R44 VTC gear also uses a 5 point torx, unlike the RBB he shows which uses a standard 6 start torx. So buy that ahead of times.
Also, since you plan on DIYing this, it only cost you around $200 for all the parts (including the sparkplug gaskets and the valve cover gasket). You'll get revised VTC gear that prevent this from happening in the first place.
If you are gonna attempt this:
The R40 R44 VTC gear also uses a 5 point torx, unlike the RBB he shows which uses a standard 6 start torx. So buy that ahead of times.
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Agreed. DIYing this job is not very hard and it's gone for good. You don't need to remove the camshafts to do it.
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My brother in-law's 2011 Accord 4 cyl had the VTC actuator replaced but the noise is coming back about 4 years later...........
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Was it replaced with the updated part? If you replace it with the old part (I believe it has a different part number) then you're not really solving the issue.
Also, if the oil level is low (this generation does have issues with oil burning), that can cause it to make noise as well. So check that.
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I don't know if it was the updated part or not. It was replaced by the dealer. My 08 exl4 is starting to rattle every morning now, ~60F morning temp. I've been contemplating of doing it myself for awhile now. I need Hudouc to come and overlook my work if I decide to proceed, jk.
If you have any questions when tackling this, feel free to ask.
I wish I could have someone to walk me through it when I did it.
The thing that discourages me the most in the OP is that some of the comments in the video indicates that the fix only lightens the symptom and doesn't get rid of it complete. Regardless of how long the replacement VTC actuator lasts, it will at least get rid of the issue for good for a few years.
I think the updated VTC actuator was introduced in September of 2015. But one is still likely to get an older part for a few month after due to dealer indiscretion or poor communication.
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Placed an order yesterday and today I got an email, "We had to Special Order your item(s) from one of our warehouses. We do show an ETA of 09-14-2022, except for 90032-PNA-000, which hasn't been released from HONDA yet." 90032-PNA-000 is the Bolt, Flange (12X47). Re-use the old one or wait for the new one without ETA?
Apparently I did buy and use a new bolt. But I just checked the TSB and the SM, and neither says a new bolt is required.
I'd say you'll be fine as long as you don't heat treat it like chrisfix did.
You should probably read the TSB and the SM again just incase I missed anything.
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Well, I dropped the chain trying to put it back yesterday. I zip tied the exhaust sprocket but I couldn't get it to re-align TDC; probably because the tensioner pin got lose and drop to the ground. So, now it is a complete reset of the chain and guide. I'm thinking about replacing the chain and tensioner as well but don't want to take another week to get the parts. It seems like I always do this to myself when working on cars.......
Have anybody used the kit from Amazon? ~$100 vs $300 Honda. Also, thinking about putting it back without adding any more money to it. Don't know how long I'll keep the car. I bought it new and it only has 125k miles.
Have anybody used the kit from Amazon? ~$100 vs $300 Honda. Also, thinking about putting it back without adding any more money to it. Don't know how long I'll keep the car. I bought it new and it only has 125k miles.
What kit? Like a tensioner? You shouldn't need a new chain.
I wouldn't trust amazon, too much counterfeit factory parts.
If I was going in there to reset the timing, I would go ahead and replace the timing chain. Go ahead and take the timing chain cover off, the hard part is removing the crankshaft bolt. Once you have the cover off take a look at the guides, most times they are in good shape and do not need to be replaced.
To do this you need a new chain, possibly some guides and you already have the tensioner. You will also need hondabond and a couple of O-rings, and a front seal. The camshaft chain from Honda is only about $85, the O-rings are about $10, the front seal is about $5. Depending on if you need to replace any guides will affect the total cost.
Getting the cover on without scraping all the hondabond off is the hardest part of putting it back together.
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To do this you need a new chain, possibly some guides and you already have the tensioner. You will also need hondabond and a couple of O-rings, and a front seal. The camshaft chain from Honda is only about $85, the O-rings are about $10, the front seal is about $5. Depending on if you need to replace any guides will affect the total cost.
Getting the cover on without scraping all the hondabond off is the hardest part of putting it back together.
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I decided to replace all the parts. Everything is clean and ready for parts to arrive. I have a tube of Honda bond II already. $215 project turns into a $500.
Lesson learn:
1. Three bolts (6x30) attached from the bottom (oil pan to the cover) are supper hard to get out. I used several swivels together to get them out from underneath near the subframe.
2. Lock both cams at the back end (right hand side) to prevent cam shafts from rotating out of TDC. I use cut off screw drivers (free from HarborFreight) 5mm diameter since I don't have Honda special tool.
A creative ingenuity with items laying around the garage. I found two large nails in my junk screws/nails bin that happens to be 4.95mm/0.195in diameter so I cut off the tips, clean with scrub pads and insert to a bungy cord.
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I bought the spring kit. I'm going to try and replace spring in actuator. Try this 1st before replace. Chain and all other parts. Kit was. $35
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Check this thread as well:
2016 Accord - Rattle On Startup, Intermittent Oil Warning Light | Drive Accord Honda Forums
2016 Accord - Rattle On Startup, Intermittent Oil Warning Light | Drive Accord Honda Forums
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hey bro it’s looks like I’m replacing my VTC actuator and most likely the timing chain while I’m at it. Do you know which aftermarket brand is the most reliable? I don’t want this to be a problem again in the future.
OEM only. IF you want to save some money, trying the spring-start spring skit first like @mtts60 did.
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