[JohnNH]

Edited 1/9/2023 To fix broken links.

The link below has a step-by-step write-up on rebuilding the Mitsuba starter used on 2006-2007 4CYL Accords.

Rebuilds – DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Accord Repairs

Posts about Rebuilds written by John C

accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com

A new OEM brush set is about $29 online and a new plunger set is about $6. You can also get a replacement armature, if necessary, for about $24 (surprisingly).

This link below has a step-by-step write-up on removing and re-installing the Mitsuba starter used on 2006-2007 4CYL Accords.

Mechanical – DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Accord Repairs

Posts about Mechanical written by John C

accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com

DriveAccord member "JohnNH" thread on starter removal and installation:
Starter Replacement DIY

.

 

[Soler25]

JohnNH, thanks for doing a write-up for all of us! However, the link doesn't seem to work. It just directs me to my personal Google Drive. Can you attach the pdf directly to the post? Or, is the google drive link a share link? (right click file>share>get link)?

Thanks again JohnNH!

 

[JohnNH]

Thanks Soler25. Hmmm... I am able to open the original link even in an incognito window by just clicking on it so theoretically you should have access. Maybe others can comment whether they can open the original link or not?

Also, can you try the following link instead:

DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Accord Repairs

A Collection of Repair Experiences for a 2007 4CYL Honda Accord

accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com

(I can't attach it due to the stringent quota limitations on this forum - it exceeds the file size limitation and exceeds my personal total quota).

 

[RickBlaine]

John, excellent post as usual. And the link works fine for me. May I break into your posts and link your Starter Replacement DIY and Starter Rebuild DIY threads to one another? Or would you like to do that? Or keep them separate?

 

[chris918]

This is exactly what I've been waiting for! I'll be doing this sometime.

 

[JohnNH]

John, excellent post as usual. And the link works fine for me. May I break into your posts and link your Starter Replacement DIY and Starter Rebuild DIY threads to one another? Or would you like to do that? Or keep them separate?

Thanks Rick, sure thing - whatever you think is best. The only reason I made them separate was simply because the starter replacement DIY could be generically useful outside of just a rebuild (i.e. if someone was replacing the starter with a factory rebuilt or replacement unit). So I figured that with it separate, anyone searching for just a starter replacement DIY guide might be more likely to find it. But I am fine with whatever you think is best.

 

[JohnNH]

The part that amazes me is that we are all one thin locking washer on a plastic pin away from not starting! If that clip/washer slides off the little tip of the plastic rod then the starter won't ever turn on...

That's the risk of DIY... Now every time I turn the key I am going to picture that little clip falling off in my mind

 

[Drew03Accord]

Thanks Rick, sure thing - whatever you think is best.

John, be careful how much freedom you give him. He will take it to the limit. That's how my oil thread ended up with the title "Drew's quest for the toughest motor oil... or something like that "

:grin

 

[JohnNH]

Thanks for the advice Drew! Speaking of Rick, I was at Wendy's the other day and you'll never guess what I found in my chicken salad...

 

[CheezyPoofs]

YOur sense of accomplishment should make you feel better, but if IRC when my daughter's starter went on her 02 I got a rebuilt for only $ 35.

 

[JohnNH]

Nice! Sounds like a good deal. The cheapest remanufactured OEM starter I can find for this vehicle is over $300. There are some much cheaper after-market units (both new and remanufactured) available, but not sure how well they hold up compared to the OEM starter. Maybe others who have tried some of the after-market units can chime in on how they fared.

What does "if IRC" mean?

 

[chris918]

Nice! Sounds like a good deal. The cheapest remanufactured OEM starter I can find for this vehicle is over $300. There are some much cheaper after-market units (both new and remanufactured) available, but not sure how well they hold up compared to the OEM starter. Maybe others who have tried some of the after-market units can chime in on how they fared.

What does "if IRC" mean?

You sir are an asset to this forum.

 

[RickBlaine]

Thanks for the advice Drew! Speaking of Rick, I was at Wendy's the other day and you'll never guess what I found in my chicken salad...

HA HA HA! I have absolutely no problem with that lunch!

For those of you who don't know, JohnNH's write-ups are legendarily great, with easy to follow instructions, tips, and excellent photography. He will clean up used/worn parts to study them, and then take a picture. I remarked that these used parts are so pristine-looking, that if I found them in my Wendy's salad, I would not complain one bit!

 

[Miker]

Nice! Sounds like a good deal. The cheapest remanufactured OEM starter I can find for this vehicle is over $300. There are some much cheaper after-market units (both new and remanufactured) available, but not sure how well they hold up compared to the OEM starter. Maybe others who have tried some of the after-market units can chime in on how they fared.

What does "if IRC" mean?

IRC = I Remember Correctly or

I Reckon Correctly

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Looking at the pictures, to me it seems like the splines on the shaft were worn, and not as deep as the splines on the planetary gears, or the housing. Are they supposed to be like that, or am I imagining it?

Again, great job.

 

[Soler25]

Thanks Soler25. Hmmm... I am able to open the original link even in an incognito window by just clicking on it so theoretically you should have access. Maybe others can comment whether they can open the original link or not?

Also, can you try the following link instead:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B023spaMkQOlVWltaWd3OHUxcFU/view?usp=sharing

(I can't attach it due to the stringent quota limitations on this forum - it exceeds the file size limitation and exceeds my personal total quota).

Interesting... I'll have to try it at home, maybe there is something going on with our firewall here at work. Thanks for checking for us!

 

[JohnNH]

Rick, Thanks for the comments and your edits! I like your improvements - the cross-links and added emphasis are a good idea.

IRC = I Remember Correctly or
I Reckon Correctly

Thanks Miker, I see! I tried googling it but only found Internet Relay Chat...

Looking at the pictures, to me it seems like the splines on the shaft were worn, and not as deep as the splines on the planetary gears, or the housing. Are they supposed to be like that, or am I imagining it?
Again, great job.

Thanks BLCKFLSH, Are you referring to the shaft of the armature into the planetary gears, or the gear shaft in the head unit that drives the gear head (as denoted by the yellow arrow in the image below)? I am assuming the latter case because that is the one shown in the pictures.

I believe that the teeth on the gear shaft are significantly smaller than the teeth on the planetary gears and housing by design. This is not really a "gear" but rather just an interlock between the planetary gear base and the shaft. The armature sits in the center of the planet gears and rotates them all counter-clockwise (red arrows). As the planet gears rotate against the fixed outer plastic gear, this rotates the planetary gear base clockwise (blue arrow). The base is locked to the output gear shaft via the smaller splines and therefore the output shaft (violet arrow) rotates with the base.

Also, as far as the fact that the output shaft gear doesn't sit all the way into the base, I think the plastic ring does get pressed down further when the end cap is put on which takes up some of this gap.

Does that answer your question, or did I totally misunderstand?

 

[mtts60]

Update:

The brush holder set is still available as of today. p/n 31210-rra-a52 ($48). It includes the brush holder assembly, a plastic post (probably the plunger), two one-way push-on washers, a copper washer and a spring.

The armature is also still available but I did not get it. p/n 31207-rra-a51 (about $45).

 

[AceRX]

does anyone know if the rebuild process would be the same for 9th generation?

 

[RickBlaine]

^Yes, the rebuild procedures for 7th, 8th, and 9th Gen starters are very similar- just different part numbers for the items mentioned.

The removal and re-install procedures are different between the I4 and the V6 engines regardless of generation.