[Jizzonem]

Hello everybody!! Just want to report that I have finally figured out what the problem is with the engine vibration at idle and in gear. Car warmed up and stopped at a traffic signal with substantially more vibration than what you remember ever having with your accord? Wasn't like that when you bought it? I have seen a whole lot of posts on here about it and a whole lot of guessing at what it was/is. Even Honda recommends the wrong suggestion on which motor mount to replace. They recommend the active front motor mount with the vacuum assist to be replaced. Sure, thats part of it, if it is in fact broken or leaking vacuum/fluid. In my case, I replaced all the motor mounts and all of the transmission mounts. There were no visible defects with the front mount and no vacuum/fluid leaks, replaced anyways. The "TRUE" fix in this case study was my rear transmission mount. I replaced this one last and test drove the car after each mount replacement to help pinpoint which one was the offender. By far, the only time I felt an immediate and substantial reduction in vibration was and is the rear transmission mount. You will notice that the rubber between the mount and bushing is see through or missing and slight tears in the rubber. The replacement mount was visibly different and did not have any see-through rubber in the bushing, other than the thru-bolt hole. I purchased one of the cheapest kits online ($120) that includes all of the motor mounts and transmission mounts for a total of 5x mounts. Do not buy the BS you see on these forums where they say "oh, you have to get genuine oem front honda motor mount". Thats just noise!. If I could go back in time, I only would have bought the two side engine mounts and the rear transmission mount. The job was a pain in the ass, but just stay calm and take breaks. I did the three side mounts in one day, the front mount on the second day and the rear mount on the third day. I had to space them out like this because it is a time consuming job and a tad frustrating at times. Anyways, just wanted to finally put this issue to rest. I truly only noticed a difference once I changed the rear transmission mount. Ofcourse, there is still the ac load vibration, but even that is much better now!!. Good luck!!

 

[DIY Fan]

FYI, my daughter's 2010 V6 had a mild vibration that could be felt in the steering wheel at idle. I did the motor mount test as recommended by members of this forum but could not see much movement. So I soaked the cylinders 1 to 4 in Seafoam overnight then changed the oil. The Seafoam did the trick and the vibration is gone. I also installed VCMTuner2 as recommended by other forum members.

 

[Jizzonem]

FYI, my daughter's 2010 V6 had a mild vibration that could be felt in the steering wheel at idle. I did the motor mount test as recommended by members of this forum but could not see much movement. So I soaked the cylinders 1 to 4 in Seafoam overnight then changed the oil. The Seafoam did the trick and the vibration is gone. I also installed VCMTuner2 as recommended by other forum members.

Yeah that makes more sense with a v6 glad you figured that one out! I'm sure your daughter was happy too!
I guess I should have specified in the title or description that I mean this for a 2.4L 4 cylinder. There's been a lot of threads on forums about the 4 cylinder being noisier and have more vibration inherently because its a 4 cylinder and that its nothing to worry about. They make it seem as though it's the OP's first time driving a 4 cylinder and just doesn't know any better. They make that argument even though the OP has states several times that it wasn't like that when the bought it and it has gotten worse over time. Thats why I am here to at least put that excuse to rest! Your not crazy and yes it wasn't something that there all along and you just now noticed it lol. Even the dealer makes that excuse to people about this complaint. They proceed to tell them about the intricacies of the 4cylinder engine, SMH! Its sad and the dealership need more diagnostic training.

 

[CrisMoore19]

Hello everybody!! Just want to report that I have finally figured out what the problem is with the engine vibration at idle and in gear. Car warmed up and stopped at a traffic signal with substantially more vibration than what you remember ever having with your accord? Wasn't like that when you bought it? I have seen a whole lot of posts on here about it and a whole lot of guessing at what it was/is. Even Honda recommends the wrong suggestion on which motor mount to replace. They recommend the active front motor mount with the vacuum assist to be replaced. Sure, thats part of it, if it is in fact broken or leaking vacuum/fluid. In my case, I replaced all the motor mounts and all of the transmission mounts. There were no visible defects with the front mount and no vacuum/fluid leaks, replaced anyways. The "TRUE" fix in this case study was my rear transmission mount. I replaced this one last and test drove the car after each mount replacement to help pinpoint which one was the offender. By far, the only time I felt an immediate and substantial reduction in vibration was and is the rear transmission mount. You will notice that the rubber between the mount and bushing is see through or missing and slight tears in the rubber. The replacement mount was visibly different and did not have any see-through rubber in the bushing, other than the thru-bolt hole. I purchased one of the cheapest kits online ($120) that includes all of the motor mounts and transmission mounts for a total of 5x mounts. Do not buy the BS you see on these forums where they say "oh, you have to get genuine oem front honda motor mount". Thats just noise!. If I could go back in time, I only would have bought the two side engine mounts and the rear transmission mount. The job was a pain in the ass, but just stay calm and take breaks. I did the three side mounts in one day, the front mount on the second day and the rear mount on the third day. I had to space them out like this because it is a time consuming job and a tad frustrating at times. Anyways, just wanted to finally put this issue to rest. I truly only noticed a difference once I changed the rear transmission mount. Ofcourse, there is still the ac load vibration, but even that is much better now!!. Good luck!!

Hello, I’m having the same issue with the vibration at idle, I’ve replaced all mounts and the vibration get worse, I read your post and see that you fix it replacing the rear transmission mount but I’m confused about which mount you replaced, can you please tell me what’s the mount to replace, thank you in advance

 

[Jizzonem]

Hello, I’m having the same issue with the vibration at idle, I’ve replaced all mounts and the vibration get worse, I read your post and see that you fix it replacing the rear transmission mount but I’m confused about which mount you replaced, can you please tell me what’s the mount to replace, thank you in advance

It was the rear of the engine down low, towards the middle. I had to laydown on the engine and lean over near the cowl to see it.
Theres something else that can cause the vibration is the throttle body being dirty. If dirty enough, it can cause the engine to idle high on rpms and obviously vibrate, esp at a stop. It does need "re-learned" after cleaning.

 

[lisetteev444]

FYI, my daughter's 2010 V6 had a mild vibration that could be felt in the steering wheel at idle. I did the motor mount test as recommended by members of this forum but could not see much movement. So I soaked the cylinders 1 to 4 in Seafoam overnight then changed the oil. The Seafoam did the trick and the vibration is gone. I also installed VCMTuner2 as recommended by other forum members.

What cylinders did you soak? the engine cylinders? Ty

 

[MarQ_Patriot]

Howdy…
Same issue here. I started with the 02 sensors top and bottom and it did improve the shake, but still there. I purchased Denso(#234-9131, #234-4574) instead of paying Honda OEM prices. Denso is the manufacturer. Next I’m gonna put on an aluminum valve cover(JDMSPEED)and check the valves and adjust if needed. I DO NOT have a shake at cold temps which would indicate my exhaust valves may be ok. They tend to get very tight with use so I’ve read. Honda recommends check them at 110,000 miles. My shake shows up when the car is fully warmed up and only at idle, and now not all the time(after 02 sensors replaced). I also purchased Dorman(#696-050)air intake hose which I will install and the same time as valve cover. I am also going to clean the throttle body as well, same time. Next I was gonna take apart the alternator and change the brushes in the alternator as was suggested to me.
So if all that doesn’t work I’m gonna try the motor mounts(rear first)… THANK YOU JIZZ
K, I left the best for last. If you love your Honda as I do you wanna listen to this…

I have a 2013/17 Accord(Frankenstein)EX-L sedan in NH700m with 130,000 mi…
I purchased my accord with 90,000 mi and the oil was black. I had to add more than a quart between the first 2 oil changes(every 5000 mi).
Then a YouTube mechanic introduced me to the cure…
My last oil change(130,000)the engine oil was dark golden brown and I only added 1/2 a quart in between at about 2500 mi.
I have done this at almost every oil change since I purchased the car. It isn’t cheep so you must love your car but I swear by it. The box recommends every oil change. I called the manufacturer and they said every other. The YouTube mechanic said every 15,000.
I will still do every oil change from now on as my engine purrs like new. My neighbor is a certified mechanic who has a decked out 90’s civic and I showed him the dip stick before I changed the oil and he said, “Holy Shit”…
I honestly believe my car will go 300,000+ maybe a lot more(but I do have a heavy foot at times)but we will have to wait and see…
The website is ats505.com and the company name is ATS chemical. Get the 2 bottle kit with gas cleaner AND engine oil cleaner, IT IS WELL WORTH THE PRICE!!!!!
Hope this also helps anyone wanting there Honda to always run like new…

 

[97trophy]

ATS chemical.

Valvoline restore & protect does a better job at a better price

 

[MarQ_Patriot]

Well I will have to disagree strongly. I just watched several vids of guys using that product, each one drained BLACK oil out into the pan, BLACK. One guy even did a short vid showing the BLACK oil draining out, the new oil goin in, then he drove 2000 miles and pulled the dip stick, same color as new. Come on, if it’s black at say 5000 miles then there is no way it looks new at 2000.
I don’t care what they claim, I will stick with ATS chem and KNOW my engine is protected AND clean.
Think about it, you put that oil in and drive around for 5000 miles with all that carbon sloshin around.
At least the little bit it can clean out of the engine.
ATS you pour in the motor B4 you change the old oil and run the motor with the cleaner in it at 2500rpm for 15 minutes. That cleans the motor and then you drain the carbon so the engine is clean with new oil in it…
I will stick with ATS…