I'm trying to replace the cat converter on my friend's 03 Accord 2.4 manual. But all the cat converter bolt are rusted to the point where savaging is out of the question. I cut one off on the nut side but still couldn't get the stud out. Do you guys have any ideas other than taking it to a shop?
VERY rusted cat converter bolt
VinceAK
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
I'm trying to replace the cat converter on my friend's 03 Accord 2.4 manual. But all the cat converter bolt are rusted to the point where savaging is out of the question. I cut one off on the nut side but still couldn't get the stud out. Do you guys have any ideas other than taking it to a shop?
Attachments
I don't have an oxy torch, can I use one of the store bought propane torch?
- Reaction score
- 5,147
- Location
- Montana, USA
Maybe a hand-held grinder with a cut-off wheel, if you can get it in there. Local rental stores carry them.
I already cut off one of the nut using dremel and cutoff wheel. But the stud is still in and I couldn't get real good hit on the stud with hammer and punch laying on the floor
Joined
·
1,946 Posts
- Reaction score
- 61
A good quality C-clamp not a cheap one. Use a socket to go over the stud end and allow force only to be applied at the flange. You will need to tape It in place on the round swivel pad end to keep it secure while using in a tight space.
You don't need a torch... just run your car and allow the cat to heat up good on a wee drive.
Use a small piece of similar diameter steel, like another bolt . You, may need to cut off some bolt thread and trim flat to fit against the cut stud. Use the bolt end at the C-clamp end. Tape it as well, so you hands are free to hold and tighten. Once you are able to tighten enough to hold the bolt in place use a vice grip to secure the tightening lever to apply force. If it is too small for your hands.
You don't need a torch... just run your car and allow the cat to heat up good on a wee drive.
Use a small piece of similar diameter steel, like another bolt . You, may need to cut off some bolt thread and trim flat to fit against the cut stud. Use the bolt end at the C-clamp end. Tape it as well, so you hands are free to hold and tighten. Once you are able to tighten enough to hold the bolt in place use a vice grip to secure the tightening lever to apply force. If it is too small for your hands.
Joined
·
200 Posts
- Reaction score
- 187
- Location
- New Hampshire
You don't have to take the stud out -- just cut off ALL three of the bolts on the nut side and the joint will separate freeing the catalytic converter. There is no need to remove the stud portion of the bolt (and it is pressed into the cat so they are NOT easy to remove). Just knock off all the other nuts with your dremel (the same as the one you already did) and the joint will separate. Hit the edge of the joint with a hammer if you need to.
When replacing my cat, the nuts were similarly rusted:
And cutting of the nuts (angle grinder and dremel for the harder-to-reach top nut), the joint separated amazingly easy:
This picture shows that the studs are actually pressed into the cat and therefore can't be easily removed:
Joined
·
50 Posts
- Reaction score
- 4
agreed. cutting the nuts off weakening them to the point you can drive out the remainder of the stud is the only way.
they also make these nifty little nut splitters that might work.
I would also be tempted to get a small cheap socket set and hammer one on that was close and try that
they also make these nifty little nut splitters that might work.
I would also be tempted to get a small cheap socket set and hammer one on that was close and try that
Joined
·
200 Posts
- Reaction score
- 187
- Location
- New Hampshire
Just to clarify, in my case, I found that it wasn't necessary to remove the remainder of the stud. Once the nut side of all three bolts was cut off, the joint separated even with the remaining stud segments in place. Then, once the joint was separated, the remaining stud segments just remained with the cat flange.
In the image below you can see the new cat with the full length studs, and the old cat where the studs have been cut off at the nut end. But the remainder of the studs (blue arrows in image below) were left in place on the old cat and the joint still separated easily. So I don't think there is any reason to try and get the studs completely out (and I think doing so would be pretty hard since they are press fit into the cat flange):
- Reaction score
- 3,061
Also test the upstream O2 sensor, a failing one will ruin a new cat in about a yr.
Joined
·
200 Posts
- Reaction score
- 187
- Location
- New Hampshire
Yes, I replaced the factory original cat at 313k miles with an OEM unit due to a P0420. I am now at 370k. In fact, I just got back from a ~1400 mile drive NH to PA and back - car ran perfectly.
Joined
·
187 Posts
- Reaction score
- 106
Just for the record while we are talking OEM cats versus aftermarket, my aftermarket cat failed this past week after just 53k. It was a Walker cat, which seemed to have pretty decent reviews. OEM last me until 380k, so be wary of the cost/performance aspect when getting a new cat and decide which is better for you.
I've got a bunch of other work to do on the car, so I'll post more after the weekend.
I've got a bunch of other work to do on the car, so I'll post more after the weekend.
So I just finished replacing the cat with a Walker and the downstream O2 sensor with a Denso. Now the car is popping a P1157...
Here's the freeze frame for P1157
Here's the freeze frame for P1157
Attachments
- Reaction score
- 3,061
My Walker cat is starting to fail, it has 250K on it. The OEM cat went @ 243K. They (Walker) are owned by Tenneco who is the OEM supplier to Honda.
Joined
·
220 Posts
- Reaction score
- 54
- Location
- West Philadelphia Suburbs
Just cut that sucker off and put a test pipe in. 
Thats what I did!
(Okay its actually a resonated test pipe by megan racing, but same difference).
Thats what I did!
(Okay its actually a resonated test pipe by megan racing, but same difference).
- Reaction score
- 3,061
Aren't they for off road use only, don't have emmisions testing in your state ?
Joined
·
187 Posts
- Reaction score
- 106
No emissions in my state. How did you deal with the downstream O2 sensor? I'm gonna try a spacer, seems like people have had good luck with them, but others have homebuilt dummy sensors too.Just cut that sucker off and put a test pipe in.
Thats what I did!
(Okay its actually a resonated test pipe by megan racing, but same difference).
Joined
·
220 Posts
- Reaction score
- 54
- Location
- West Philadelphia Suburbs
Forgot to get back to you, sorry! I am using this:
<title>O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix best oxygen sensor simulator made.
Warning though, a test pipe does make the car louder and smell. I love it though.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
