[Nelson4691]

I have a 2011 WHITE Honda Accord EX L4. I noticed a section of my car, specifically the left passenger door lost it's shiny/glossy look that the rest of the car has. It's surface feels different from the rest (rougher) and had a more matt look. I can't tell if my cars clear coat is almost/completely gone or if it's just the wax.

Do you guys have any tips or suggestions on how to troubleshoot or repair the problem? I'm trying to protect the paint. Thanks Honda fam!

 

[PeteMc]

California Gold® 3 Clay Bars Complete Kit

Created to remove the particulate debris and contaminants that washing and polishing can’t, our clay bar system removes embedded grains of metal and more. Shop online now:

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Get this. Wash the car (by hand),do the clay over the entire car, then wax. The clay is easy and wont take long.

 

[Ash051]

Do you have any peeling or bubbling around the area? If so, that would in fact be the clear coat coming off.

If it feels rough, that's definitely some type of sun damage though. I'm not sure if you can repair it necessarily, but you could protect the rest of the paint with a UV resistant wax. That's what I do for mine.

 

[namegoeshere]

Clear coat can't be peeling when it doesn't have a clear coat to begin with if your car is Taffeta White as it's a single stage paint.

Carefully wash the area (car) and clay bar it as suggested by PeteMc. If it were me, I'd wash it with Dawn dish washing soap to strip all the stuff off to get a fresh start. Then clay bar and then apply a wax or sealant.

 

[03LXV6]

It could be oxidation in which case you'd need to polish/compound the area to get the gloss back then wax it.

 

[Nelson4691]

Clear coat can't be peeling when it doesn't have a clear coat to begin with if your car is Taffeta White as it's a single stage paint.

Carefully wash the area (car) and clay bar it as suggested by PeteMc. If it were me, I'd wash it with Dawn dish washing soap to strip all the stuff off to get a fresh start. Then clay bar and then apply a wax or sealant.

View attachment 534486

Amazing job pointing out that it's single-stage @namegoeshere ! I just have a few follow up questions:

1. In regards to your dish soap recommendation, I thought the clay bar would do the job of getting rid of anything that shouldn't be on the car's paint, or is that not the case?
2. Should I apply pure dish soap or should i dilute it with water? if so how much?
3. Any brands you recommend for the sealant?
4. Where can i find that amazing honda paint code resource?
5. Also where can i search to find out what stage each paint is?

Do you have any peeling or bubbling around the area? If so, that would in fact be the clear coat coming off.

If it feels rough, that's definitely some type of sun damage though. I'm not sure if you can repair it necessarily, but you could protect the rest of the paint with a UV resistant wax. That's what I do for mine.

No peeling or Bubbling. namegoeshere informed me that my car goes through stage 1 paint since its taffeta white. Ill take the UV resistant wax into consideration!

 

[namegoeshere]

Amazing job pointing out that it's single-stage @namegoeshere ! I just have a few follow up questions:

1. In regards to your dish soap recommendation, I thought the clay bar would do the job of getting rid of anything that shouldn't be on the car's paint, or is that not the case?
2. Should I apply pure dish soap or should i dilute it with water? if so how much?
3. Any brands you recommend for the sealant?
4. Where can i find that amazing honda paint code resource?
5. Also where can i search to find out what stage each paint is?

Use Dawn to strip wax and other chemicals off the paint surface. You can use a 1/2 oz to 1 gallon of water ratio. If you use a 5 gallon bucket like many do, then that's roughly 2.5 oz. Round up to 3 oz if car's really dirty/has never been prepped for detailing this way before.

The clay bar is mainly to remove embedded contaminants (brake dust, tree sap, industrial fall out, etc). You can also use https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G instead of a clay bar. I find it easier to hold, lasts longer, and works just as well.

If you want something that works really well and is inexpensive, there's Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. They call it a wax, but it's really a sealant with wax hybrid. Collinite 845 has been talked about so many times before. There are newer and fancier (and more expensive) stuff available, but 845 is a tried and true choice still used by many today. It's what I'm using.

8th gen paint codes thread is here: 2008 - 2010 Accord Touch Up Paint COLOR CODE , and specifically for 2011 Accord is attached below.

Info can also be found with Google, DuckDuckGo, Bing, StartPage, etc

 

[ethan2014]

Hard to diagnose your paint problem as we can't see or feel your car's surface.

Watch some YouTube videos on this topic. This can help you with what may be your paint fading situation.

There's a science to auto paint on how to clean and improve the protection and appearance. Many car detailing forums online as well.

 

[Nelson4691]

Use Dawn to strip wax and other chemicals off the paint surface. You can use a 1/2 oz to 1 gallon of water ratio. If you use a 5 gallon bucket like many do, then that's roughly 2.5 oz. Round up to 3 oz if car's really dirty/has never been prepped for detailing this way before.

The clay bar is mainly to remove embedded contaminants (brake dust, tree sap, industrial fall out, etc). You can also use https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G instead of a clay bar. I find it easier to hold, lasts longer, and works just as well.

If you want something that works really well and is inexpensive, there's Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. They call it a wax, but it's really a sealant with wax hybrid. Collinite 845 has been talked about so many times before. There are newer and fancier (and more expensive) stuff available, but 845 is a tried and true choice still used by many today. It's what I'm using.

8th gen paint codes thread is here: 2008 - 2010 Accord Touch Up Paint COLOR CODE , and specifically for 2011 Accord is attached below.

Info can also be found with Google, DuckDuckGo, Bing, StartPage, etc

Awesome feedback! Some final follow up questions:

1. Should i buy Nano skin GLIDE instant detail spray lubricant or can I get away with soap and water as a lubricant? Amazon seems to reccomended it with the auto scrub you provided.
2. Also i got some "good shots" of my dilemma I'll attach it. If you look, there's pretty much no shine to the doors and it feels completely different from the other parts of the car, almost as if a layer is missing. Do your accommodations line up with what you see the problem to be?

 

[Jaybo]

Single stage paint oxidizes. Washing and using a clay bar is a good first step but waxing or sealing isn't going to fix this. Use Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze to rehydrate the paint. I'd suggest to do this with an orbital or rotary buffer with a polishing pad. Once the oxidation is either fixed or removed then you can put a protectant on top. Otherwise it's just going to look matte and shiny.

Edit: this isn't a replacement for a compound and polish it just makes those steps easier and requires less paint to be removed to achieve a nice finish. By rehydrating the oxidized paint you are restoring it so less cut needed and less chalky paint residue clogging up your pads in the next paint correction steps.

 

[Nelson4691]

Hard to diagnose your paint problem as we can't see or feel your car's surface.

Watch some YouTube videos on this topic. This can help you with what may be your paint fading situation.

There's a science to auto paint on how to clean and improve the protection and appearance. Many car detailing forums online as well.

While watching videos i came to the conclusion that it was either the clear coat or the wax that missing, however I found out that my cars paint has no clear coat. I attached some images to see if it could help.

Single stage paint oxidizes. Washing and using a clay bar is a good first step but waxing or sealing isn't going to fix this. Use Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze to rehydrate the paint. I'd suggest to do this with an orbital or rotary buffer with a polishing pad. Once the oxidation is either fixed or removed then you can put a protectant on top. Otherwise it's just going to look matte and shiny.

Thank you for the feedback! I actually attached some images showing the door. Do you still had the same opinion still after looking at the pictures? That sounds like a good idea however, I don't know if that would be the best choice since it removes paint off an already old and possibly oxidized car paint in the process. Let me know your thoughts please
@namegoeshere any thoughts?

 

[Jaybo]

Thank you for the feedback! I actually attached some images showing the door. Do you still had the same opinion still after looking at the pictures? That sounds like a good idea however, I don't know if that would be the best choice since it removes paint off an already old and possibly oxidized car paint in the process. Let me know your thoughts please
@namegoeshere any thoughts?

I'm 80% sure it will be fine, i could only say I'm 100% sure in person for white paint! White is really good at hiding imperfections or even if it's been worn down to the primer. From the pics it looks like a relatively uniform wear across the door so it should be fine.

Don't worry too much about removing material, by using the glaze or other product for rehydrating single stage paint you are minimizing paint loss. Remember, compounding and polishing is supposed to remove paint to get a pristine finish. It's like exfoliating your skin. You remove the dead skin to reveal the undamaged skin underneath. This is the same concept. Just don't take off too much lol. Watch AmmoNYC's videos on YouTube on how to do a two stage paint correction if you're worried. Just remember it's going to look better than it does now.. and it's really easy to hide your mistakes in white paint 😂

Edit: two stage as in the type of correction. A one stage a polish and a two stage is a compound and polish. What you need to basically do is a three stage with a glaze first for your single stage paint.

 

[namegoeshere]

Awesome feedback! Some final follow up questions:

1. Should i buy Nano skin GLIDE instant detail spray lubricant or can I get away with soap and water as a lubricant? Amazon seems to reccomended it with the auto scrub you provided.
2. Also i got some "good shots" of my dilemma I'll attach it. If you look, there's pretty much no shine to the doors and it feels completely different from the other parts of the car, almost as if a layer is missing. Do your accommodations line up with what you see the problem to be?

(1) That Nano Skin glide is expensive. It's not necessary. I use Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine which has been discussed on here before. Just mix 1 oz with 16 oz water.

(2) That looks like oxidation to me. If it is, washing and claying isn't going to fix it. As 03LXV6 and Jaybo said, you're probably going to want to compound and/or polish the area after washing and clay to remove oxidation and bring the shine back, then follow with wax/sealant.

Are you the original owner? Was that side of the car ever re-painted?

Thank you for the feedback! I actually attached some images showing the door. Do you still had the same opinion still after looking at the pictures? That sounds like a good idea however, I don't know if that would be the best choice since it removes paint off an already old and possibly oxidized car paint in the process. Let me know your thoughts please

Polishing to remove oxidation removes very little paint. It's not like you're trying to remove scratches which will take multiple passes using an aggressive cutting pad and compound. You'd start with the least aggressive combination of polishing pad and polish first to see what the results are, and then work your way up if the combo isn't strong enough.

 

[PlayaPlaya]

Autogeekonline Auto Detailing Forum

Car Detailing Forum for the enthusiast. Learn how to wax, polish, compound, clay and detail your vehicle.

www.autogeekonline.net

^Awesome online shop and forum with many members to answer ALL your detailing questions.

Car Detailing: Once you get started, its an addiction you can't stop. There literally is no such thing as an end.

Don't say I didn't warn you.

There are hundreds of thousands of hours worth of videos, reviews, tips, and info on car detailing on the internet. Each car manufacturer has slightly different paint so you must see what works best for yours.
You would be amazed how much there is to learn. And how many products there are to buy.
Synthetic waxes are the "new" favorite but the classic car guys still like their real carnauba wax on their hot rods.

Like the other guys said.....You must get a powered random orbital/dual action polisher if you want to do the best job. Its a must, your hand can not come close to the results.


Have fun. Don't ruin your marriage.


$200 carnauba wax that comes in its own hardwood case.

Wolfgang Fuzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax

Wolfgang Fuzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax - Accept no compromise. Wolfgang Fzion Estate Wax is a hand-crafted blend of carnauba wax, German Super Polymers, and proprietary ingredients that yield unequaled shine and protection. Our unique ...

www.autogeek.net

 

[Nelson4691]

I'm 80% sure it will be fine, i could only say I'm 100% sure in person for white paint! White is really good at hiding imperfections or even if it's been worn down to the primer. From the pics it looks like a relatively uniform wear across the door so it should be fine.

Don't worry too much about removing material, by using the glaze or other product for rehydrating single stage paint you are minimizing paint loss. Remember, compounding and polishing is supposed to remove paint to get a pristine finish. It's like exfoliating your skin. You remove the dead skin to reveal the undamaged skin underneath. This is the same concept. Just don't take off too much lol. Watch AmmoNYC's videos on YouTube on how to do a two stage paint correction if you're worried. Just remember it's going to look better than it does now.. and it's really easy to hide your mistakes in white paint 😂

Edit: two stage as in the type of correction. A one stage a polish and a two stage is a compound and polish. What you need to basically do is a three stage with a glaze first for your single stage paint.

That relieves my concern a bit with polishing lol. Is compounding necessary as i don't seem to have any scratches that are concerning?

(1) That Nano Skin glide is expensive. It's not necessary. I use Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine which has been discussed on here before. Just mix 1 oz with 16 oz water.

(2) That looks like oxidation to me. If it is, washing and claying isn't going to fix it. As 03LXV6 and Jaybo said, you're probably going to want to compound and/or polish the area after washing and clay to remove oxidation and bring the shine back, then follow with wax/sealant.

Are you the original owner? Was that side of the car ever re-painted?



Polishing to remove oxidation removes very little paint. It's not like you're trying to remove scratches which will take multiple passes using an aggressive cutting pad and compound. You'd start with the least aggressive combination of polishing pad and polish first to see what the results are, and then work your way up if the combo isn't strong enough.

Thank you I have so far purchased all your reccomendations. I am not the original owner of the car , but i can say that the roof and side we are discussing here are the only parts that haven't gotten repainted. So to summarize my detailing process the steps are:

1. Compound and or polish after washing
2. Clay bar to remove oxidation and bring back shinePost
3. Then wax/seal

I think im going to skip the Compounding since i don't seem to have any conerning scratches as i told @Jaybo . Also any orbital pads you guys reccomend? I already have an orbital polisher.

Autogeekonline Auto Detailing Forum

Car Detailing Forum for the enthusiast. Learn how to wax, polish, compound, clay and detail your vehicle.

www.autogeekonline.net

^Awesome online shop and forum with many members to answer ALL your detailing questions.

Car Detailing: Once you get started, its an addiction you can't stop. There literally is no such thing as an end.

Don't say I didn't warn you.

There are hundreds of thousands of hours worth of videos, reviews, tips, and info on car detailing on the internet. Each car manufacturer has slightly different paint so you must see what works best for yours.
You would be amazed how much there is to learn. And how many products there are to buy.
Synthetic waxes are the "new" favorite but the classic car guys still like their real carnauba wax on their hot rods.

Like the other guys said.....You must get a powered random orbital/dual action polisher if you want to do the best job. Its a must, your hand can not come close to the results.


Have fun. Don't ruin your marriage.


$200 carnauba wax that comes in its own hardwood case.

Wolfgang Fuzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax

Wolfgang Fuzion Carnauba Polymer Estate Wax - Accept no compromise. Wolfgang Fzion Estate Wax is a hand-crafted blend of carnauba wax, German Super Polymers, and proprietary ingredients that yield unequaled shine and protection. Our unique ...

www.autogeek.net

Great way to hook me into detailing haha. Im ahead of you on the random orbital polisher! I just need to get a good pad. Any reccomendations.

 

[ethan2014]

For the orbital, I recommend a foam pad from any store. Buy 2 just in case 1 falls on the ground. Never reuse anything on the paint that hits the ground. Sponge, drying towel, clay bar, etc....

My method is wash then rinse but don't dry yet. I then dump out the car wash bucket of old, dirty soap and refill with fresh soap. Next use the soapy water and fill sponge, squeeze sponge in area to lubricate for clay barring.

This saves the step of drying the car twice. After all clay barring is complete then I do the final rinse then dry with damp micro fiber towels. Dry all windows first so that towels become damp. Don't press against the paint while drying.

Once car is completely dry then apply wax with foam pad. I make sure I wipe all dried wax off before applying the sealant or another coat of wax.

As mentioned, using compound with a recommended orange hex pad will remove a top layer of paint or clear coat so it should not done too often. Only when paint shows an extreme amount of swirl marks or light scratches is the time.

Have fun!

 

[Jaybo]

That relieves my concern a bit with polishing lol. Is compounding necessary as i don't seem to have any scratches that are concerning?


Thank you I have so far purchased all your reccomendations. I am not the original owner of the car , but i can say that the roof and side we are discussing here are the only parts that haven't gotten repainted. So to summarize my detailing process the steps are:

1. Compound and or polish after washing
2. Clay bar to remove oxidation and bring back shinePost
3. Then wax/seal

I think im going to skip the Compounding since i don't seem to have any conerning scratches as i told @Jaybo . Also any orbital pads you guys reccomend? I already have an orbital polisher.


Great way to hook me into detailing haha. Im ahead of you on the random orbital polisher! I just need to get a good pad. Any reccomendations.

Clay bar first then compound and/or polish.

I personally like hex pads but you have to learn what works best and what you prefer.

The reason I would still recommend a compound is because of the level of oxidation. I don't think a polish alone is going to be enough. I'd be prepared to do one just in case.

Get lots of pads. I would say at least 5. They are going to get clogged up very fast with oxidized paint. (Why i recommended the glaze). If you have an air compressor you can blow out the pads while they spin to get some extra life out of them. Be prepared to spend an entire weekend on this. I did a compound and polish on an old Toyota sienna with 1 stage. It took around 30 hours.