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AtlantaRene

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Since the pandemic, I have been driving my Honda Accord Hybrid for short distances only. The car has been running fine for me for long time without issue. Today, I got to my destination and I was sitting outside with the car in accessory mode (which I normally don't use), and then the car threw a bunch of faults in sequence.

  • Brake System Problem
  • Electric Power Steering Problem
  • Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) Problem
  • Anti-Lock Break System Problem
  • Tire Pressure Monitor System Problem

My fear grew as all the alerts were going off but to add insult to injury the stereo audio cut out, the display and the lane watch screen went black.

I was able to get the auto club to come out and charge my battery enough to get the car "started". I was able to drive without all of the safety systems running (it was driving "like it was 1999"). I had to keep the car in the lane, not follow anyone too closely, I had to be careful not to accelerate too quickly, and not to slam on the brakes. Ha Ha

The local Honda dealer could not take my car in for a diagnostic today so I drove home and put it on the battery charger. I was surprised that the battery was completely recharged in about 1 1/2 hours.

Though I have a fully charged battery, the ABS System and other safety systems will not initialize when I start the car on its own power. I suspect that there is either something still wrong with the battery that I am unable to determine from my smart charger or I have to go into the service center to get them to clear the faults.

Any thoughts on clearing these faults at home or am I due to a trip to the service center? If I don't get any ideas by morning, it's goin' to Honda.

-- AtlantaRene
 
When you have battery issues with a HAH you will experience failure of the aforementioned systems. These systems rely on specific amounts of electrical power being sent their way to know they are operating correctly. Instead of being destroyed, they will shut off to preserve the systems.
You need to drive the vehicle for several miles(the specific number I don't know) for the systems to reboot themselves after you've replaced or re-powered the battery. It may even take you several on/off drive cycles to clear. It can be cleared faster with OBD II, but it will clear on its own as you drive the car. You will see either the entire system go back active, or you will see individual pieces of the Honda Sensing system go back online until all of them are functioning again.
 
I saw the exact same behavior in a 2017 CRV. The factory Honda battery is probably a little cheap, and will loose its ability to hold charge within a few years. The various driver assists will stop functioning when the voltage from the battery drops below a certain point, but the starter motor isn't particularly sensitive about voltage and will still start the engine fine.

As long as you keep the battery charged the errors will clear themselves, but you should look into a new battery.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
@Hybrid_K and @capkirk123 Thanks for the replies. I put the car on the charger, the battery charged up quickly. The faults remained on until after I drove it for a while and then automatically cleared.

I am sure that it’s because I have been driving infrequently and only short distances. However, the battery is over 4 years old now, so I will be replacing it soon. If the pandemic continues, I may choose to put it on a trickle charger when it’s parked.
 
@Hybrid_K and @capkirk123 Thanks for the replies. I put the car on the charger, the battery charged up quickly. The faults remained on until after I drove it for a while and then automatically cleared.

I am sure that it’s because I have been driving infrequently and only short distances. However, the battery is over 4 years old now, so I will be replacing it soon. If the pandemic continues, I may choose to put it on a trickle charger when it’s parked.
I've had issues with "smart" battery chargers not fully charging batteries. Maybe hook it up to an older or dumb charger if you have one around and don't mind taking the extra time That's done the trick for me in the past. I've had the multiple-errors issue a few times over the years in '14 HAH Touring but have learned to keep it on a trickle charger if it's not been/going to be used in a while. I'm still on the original battery (about 67k miles on car).
 
@Hybrid_K and @capkirk123 Thanks for the replies. I put the car on the charger, the battery charged up quickly. The faults remained on until after I drove it for a while and then automatically cleared.

I am sure that it’s because I have been driving infrequently and only short distances. However, the battery is over 4 years old now, so I will be replacing it soon. If the pandemic continues, I may choose to put it on a trickle charger when it’s parked.
I had same issue and ended up putting on trickle charger when parked, doing this at least once a week to top off the battery (still on OEM battery). There are some brands where you can hardwire the charger to the battery terminals with a weatherproof connector without popping the hood for convenience. Since doing haven't had any issues and battery always between 75-100% capacity now.
 
I just had my OEM 12V battery die, although I never had any issues with it losing charge in 4 years. Despite last years lack of use due to COVID and having a work lease vehicle that got used more. (Hybrid would often sit in garage without starts for 7-14 days at a time) May have reduced parasitic draw that it wasn't locked in garage?
 
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