[Jay1]

MFactory is currently making one for the 8th and 9th gen accord v6 6 speed manuals.

in order for a company to make one, they would need a large group buy and a downpayment. thats what we did for the 8th and 9th gen 6-6 accords.


so if you dont have a large number of people willing to buy it, its never going to happen, end of story. so its like you are out of luck

 

[BanzaiRocket]

Yo Jay1, thank you for the pointers.

How many people do you need for it to be considered a "large enough group" to be taken seriously and for MFactory to make? Minimum # of people required is how many? Like 50 people? 100 people?

Also, what type of down payment? Like a percentage? Like 50% up front? Or is there a certain dollar amount as the minimum?

Like $50K, and then split it with as many people as are interested? Or is it like they want a certain dollar amount to make a specific minimum quantity to make it worth their while?

Please do share as it would be very helpful to know what they are looking for so to create a proper proposal they would take seriously.

Thank you again for your valuable contribution.

 

[Jay1]

Yo Jay1, thank you for the pointers.

How many people do you need for it to be considered a "large enough group" to be taken seriously and for MFactory to make? Minimum # of people required is how many? Like 50 people? 100 people?

Also, what type of down payment? Like a percentage? Like 50% up front? Or is there a certain dollar amount as the minimum?

Like $50K, and then split it with as many people as are interested? Or is it like they want a certain dollar amount to make a specific minimum quantity to make it worth their while?

Please do share as it would be very helpful to know what they are looking for so to create a proper proposal they would take seriously.

Thank you again for your valuable contribution.

well not that large lol.. i think we needed 15 ppl for the group buy.. or maybe 10 people. i beleive they wanted 50 percent deposit of the 850 dollars to start. but trust me, i HIGHLY doubt you will get even 5 people for a group buy, the demand just isnt there for the i4 people. the i4 honestly is a very slow car and people who have the i4 are not into performance at all as there really isnt a point. i had a 2008 i4 sedan and it was amazing slow. the market just isnt there for you guys.

I mean you can try to gather people and see what happens

for the 6-6 people there is LOTS of us and it is the same transmission for 8th and 9th generation accords so there is more of a market for it

 

[BanzaiRocket]

well not that large lol.. i think we needed 15 ppl for the group buy.. or maybe 10 people. i beleive they wanted 50 percent deposit of the 850 dollars to start. but trust me, i HIGHLY doubt you will get even 5 people for a group buy, the demand just isnt there for the i4 people. the i4 honestly is a very slow car and people who have the i4 are not into performance at all as there really isnt a point. i had a 2008 i4 sedan and it was amazing slow. the market just isnt there for you guys.

I mean you can try to gather people and see what happens

for the 6-6 people there is LOTS of us and it is the same transmission for 8th and 9th generation accords so there is more of a market for it

Thank you for the feedback, it is very helpful.

I'll see what MFactory has to say, then go from there.

Yes, I understand the I4 not fast by any means in comparison to the V6.

There are a number of things out there enough to entertain building the I4 to be stronger than it is stock. I've been looking high and low for what all is out there, and found quite a few performance parts that are made for it and that will work with it.

Yeah, it's not going to like building the V6, this I know. Frankly, I like I4's.

If all I need is about a grand and around dozen or so like minded people, then I'm going for it.

For me, the point is: safety, vehicle control, and cornering performance. Yeah, the 4 is slower than the 6, but it's lighter weight and better balanced.

Especially like mine being the LXS coupe, no sunroof = less top heavy and less body roll, less nose weight/total weight= better cornering abilities, and better braking potential as it is less weight to control.

Also, more engine bay space=easier maintenance.

Bottom line, I'm determined to get more out of my car, and I know it can generate enough power to warrant an LSD.

Even just turning off the VSA it can spin (not smoke, but spin) the tires, especially in turns which causes dangerous understeer, like in freeway cloverleaf on ramps. Add rain or mist to the mix, and it just sucks even with the VSA on, like you have to drive so slow it's ridiculous.

And you cannot forget how many I4 8th gens are on the road, like seriously tons, and yeah, most are automatics. With that in mind, I'm sure there's people daily driving those in snowy areas that would love feeling safer on their commutes, or at least not getting stuck not being able to get up steep driveways and so forth.

First thing's first, control before power, and the parts needed to withstand more.

Anyways, thanks again. At least now I have a more realistic starting point for a proposal. :wink

 

[Baldeagle]

For me, the point is: safety, vehicle control, and cornering performance. Yeah, the 4 is slower than the 6, but it's lighter weight and better balanced.

Even just turning off the VSA it can spin (not smoke, but spin) the tires, especially in turns which causes dangerous understeer, like in freeway cloverleaf on ramps. Add rain or mist to the mix, and it just sucks even with the VSA on, like you have to drive so slow it's ridiculous.

I agree the I4 has better weight distribution and therefore better handling. But if your concern is safety, you realize a LSD can be MORE dangerous, right? This is particularly true when accelerating out of a hard corner, even more so if the road is wet.

If one tire spins (kinetic friction), the other tire still remains connected to road (static friction). The non-spinning tire remains semi-anchored and helps keep the front end from sliding sideways. (It also acts like a rudder on a boat to maintain lateral stability.) Once both tires spin in a corner, the entire front end can float sideways very easily. A LSD can grossly exacerbate understeer when powering out of a corner. If both tires spin you have pretty much no steering at all. When only one tire spins, the other tire can still provide some steering control.

Same thing happens with rear drive cars and burnouts. With single wheel spin, the car still tracks straight. With posi-traction the tail end drifts sideways and requires counter steer to stay straight.

While a LSD can help deliver essentially twice as much power to the road because you must break both tires loose before you lose traction, once both tires break loose the car is harder to control. It also breaks loose faster. It is harder to sense the car's approaching limits. When pushing the limits that may be important to know. Nobody wants to kiss a guardrail.

 

[BanzaiRocket]

I agree the I4 has better weight distribution and therefore better handling. But if your concern is safety, you realize a LSD can be MORE dangerous, right? This is particularly true when accelerating out of a hard corner, even more so if the road is wet.

If one tire spins (kinetic friction), the other tire still remains connected to road (static friction). The non-spinning tire remains semi-anchored and helps keep the front end from sliding sideways. (It also acts like a rudder on a boat to maintain lateral stability.) Once both tires spin in a corner, the entire front end can float sideways very easily. A LSD can grossly exacerbate understeer when powering out of a corner. If both tires spin you have pretty much no steering at all. When only one tire spins, the other tire can still provide some steering control.

Same thing happens with rear drive cars and burnouts. With single wheel spin, the car still tracks straight. With posi-traction the tail end drifts sideways and requires counter steer to stay straight.

While a LSD can help deliver essentially twice as much power to the road because you must break both tires loose before you lose traction, once both tires break loose the car is harder to control. It also breaks loose faster. It is harder to sense the car's approaching limits. When pushing the limits that may be important to know. Nobody wants to kiss a guardrail.

First off, I'm not unfamiliar with LSD'S as I have had cars with it and have always found the handling to be far superior and greatly improved, fwd, rwd, it doesn't matter.

I will restate, but this time clearly, my biggest concern is ultimate traction and being able to deliver as much power to the ground as possible.

I disagree with your anchor theory as it doesn't apply to fwd. With one wheel disengaging, there is a lack of control, deeming it rather useless and making it further dangerous. Even with rear drive cars, it's actually more hazardous to have one wheel getting all the power causing it to spin too strongly, which does cause spin outs.

I have experienced this first hand in different cars, both front and rear drive both with and without an LSD. The cars with the LSD were always far superior in total control and maximum road holding ability.

So by that is how I deem it as a safety enhancement.

As for the understeer in a fwd with an LSD, I have found it to be greatly improved by having the LSD in it. A friend of mine had a '97 Prelude with lots of mods and was making a little over 260 at the wheels and it was all motor and normal high octane pump gas (92 at the time) and he got an LSD in it and oh my god could that thing grip and control, seriously spooky how far it could be pushed and still hold traction and steering control. So don't try to tell me it will be worse with an LSD when I do know from years of first hand experience that it is no contest better in every way.

Bottom line is that the 4 cylinder even if seriously built and making high power figures, will still be plenty controllable with an LSD in it as it takes a lot of power to fully break loose both wheels, especially while in motion.

And as far as the whole wheels spinning out of control thing you said, well, the easiest thing to do is let off the throttle, and keep the rpms in the more mid range level, and get a feel for your car and know where the limits are.

Hell, with my old Starion it has an active LSD and is rear drive, and was far from stock, had plenty of power, and even that car, you had to purposely try to get the ass end to swing out and it stayed so solidly planted and would instantly regain traction, even hitting 90 degree city corners at fast speeds, or punching it through the mountains here at over 100, so yeah, having an LSD totally changes the way the car behaves and handles, but in every regard, always better.

So, with all that said, I'm in the works of getting things set up to get one for my car, and am very much so looking forward to it! :grin

 

[Dj_Rodriguez]

My 6-6 so far has Tein Flex Z Coilovers and a TLX (25.4mm) rear sway bar. Falken FK450? All season 235/40/19. The car rides super comfortable and handles great considering the all-seasons. I'm only noticing oversteer on throttle lift which is great considering the large sway bar.

Anyways I'd like to mitigate some of the torque steer on corner exits so I'm looking into an LSD. From what I understand there are swaps from TL's that are possible? Or I've even heard almost any Honda fwd lsd will go in. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? This forum's search on mobile device gives very very vague results.


Thanks!

 

[BanzaiRocket]

Contact "MFactory" for custom heavy duty LSD's. The type you'll want is a one way helical geared LSD. That's the same as the "Torsen LSD" in the Type-R.

 

[08 v6/6]

find a used Acura cl-s LSD from the 6 speed manual and its a direct swap in. yes it is helical also so it'll last forever basically.

I was close to getting a LSD but I just want more power now.

 

[yaboipink]

recently ive been trying to figure out how to get better acceleration (I have an auto, unfortunately) and I was looking into limited slip differentials but I can hardly find any info on what I would use for an '08 accord - or if it's something I could even theoretically do. anyone have any info on that?

 

[08 v6/6]

LSD would cost 1-2K by the time it's installed. I would not get an LSD anymore on this car, I don't really see the value for the effort.

Spend the money on light wheels and better tires. They will grip better and your pick up speed will be increases greatly. People underestimate the wheels when it comes to going fast. I personally have had 18" oem rims, 18" superlight rims and 19" hfp rims.

It was evident that the 18" light rims made the car faster on the drag strip there was no contest.

 

[PlayaPlaya]

recently ive been trying to figure out how to get better acceleration (I have an auto, unfortunately) and I was looking into limited slip differentials but I can hardly find any info on what I would use for an '08 accord - or if it's something I could even theoretically do. anyone have any info on that?

You want max speed and acceleration but youre sad you have an auto??

Auto is faster than manual, just FYI.

So you're already farther ahead than you thought.


Manuals are for show...autos win you the race.

 

[Hudouc]

You want max speed and acceleration but youre sad you have an auto??

Auto is faster than manual, just FYI.

So you're already farther ahead than you thought.


Manuals are for show...autos win you the race.

Maybe in a modern day AT like the 10AT, but not in the 8th gen.

 

[PlayaPlaya]

The i4 drivers on these forums never cease to amaze.

Don't get mad at me you own an i4, please. There are V6 8th gens...you just gotta have the $$$

 

[Hudouc]

The 8th gen too.

There are hundreds of threads on this.

Nope, shift speed may favor the AT just a bit, but the gearing in the AT is horrible.

 

[PlayaPlaya]

Research yourself.

/\

 

[Hudouc]

How about you prove me wrong eh? Just a few links to some 0-60 numbers or the 1/4mi numbers?

 

[PlayaPlaya]

I have driven both as well, so Im not just taking other peoples word, I've driven them myself.

The MT is a few hundred pounds lighter...so be sure to even that out as well. Add weight to the MT car for proper testing of the engine/transmission capability compared to AT

 

[namegoeshere]

So the hundreds of threads on here are wrong? All the track times people have recorded in here...were they wrong or were they lying? You ovviously know everything. Even when there are hundreds of threads and THOUSANDS of members on this forum telling you you're wrong. But, you know better than all them, yea?

Where are these hundreds of threads and thousands of members posting about how the AT is faster than the MT?

But, don't take my word for it. Lets wait for some other members to come around .

Any mods here? Or admins?

What do you need a mod or admin for, to show you you're wrong?

 

[PlayaPlaya]

What do you need a mod or admin for, to show you you're wrong?

LOL. I like that. Touche!

Like I said...I've driven both too.

The auto will never gap the MT in a race in the 8th gen...but theyre right next to each other. Add in the few hundred pounds to your MT..and youre not missing anything buddy.

And you are correct...the 9th gens the difference is more/less noticeable than the 8th gens even.

The 9th gen automatics are even better acceleration at low end, those definitely will show you how a automatic is going to give you more consistently quick times compared to a manual car.
It improves on the 8th gen V6 on the low end acceleration.

Shifting your AT 1,2,3....I havent done proper testing, but that very well may close any gap you're potentially concerned about. I've been informed that will be faster than just the pedal on these models.