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· The one and only
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Asking for a friend lol.

Seems like the ball joint let go. So it will be prudent to get the other side checked out lol.

One family member just about thinks the car has earned its walking papers. I'm not ready to pull the plug yet.

But yes.. what will the repair cost be at a shop? An Indy? A shade tree?
And what all should be changed/is broken?
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Minimum = OEM ball joint + a new axle (cheap, new ones are just fine). An alignment is needed in case the tie-rod or upper control arm are stressed.

My car suffered exactly the same with the previous owner, based on the witness marks. When I did front suspension revamp, I found that only the ball joint and axle were non-OEM, which leads me to believe those were all he replaced.

The fender is nothing, pretty thin sheet metal, can be bent back with bare hands (that's what I did). Even if you leave it like that, it probably won't interfere with anything, and seems not the ugliest part of that particular car.
 
Most kachow-ed pictures I've seen in a while.

Can't say how much it will cost you at a shop but the parts alone will be at least $200, using the OEM lower ball joint and an aftermarket axle. A shop might quote 2 hours to repair it + an alignment ranging from $99 to $149 these days. The alignment might push the quote to 3 hours of labor given that they do it at the same place, or you'll need to take it to a different place that does alignment. An alignment is absolutely necessary if you don't want another worn tire situation since the entire knuckle is coming off during the repair. While the knuckle is off, you might find a torn compliance bushing in the lower control arm, that's another at least $49 to $99 for an arm swap instead of spending extra time pushing out and pressing in a new bushing. I suggest a new tire also as it looks super worn down, that'll be another $100 to $200. None of this can be cheap when you get a shop involved.

If you take someone's advice to get rid of it and get another different car, then you'll be several thousands in the hole instead of several hundreds in the hole. If you can pay it all off in one shot, then that's a non-issue, or, you'll be paying interests on a new car, getting yourself into a new debt.
 
Most kachow-ed pictures I've seen in a while.
:D I've seen quite a few cars broke down like that, and almost always a Honda/Acura, only once I saw a Ford.
 
Lower ball joint play is extremely easy to check, but is probably one of the most ignored items. Just take a pry bar and stick it between the lower control arm and knuckle and pry, if you see movement, then replace it. You can do this every other tire rotation or 10k miles. The days of me doing this is mostly over as I don't drive as much into the city of Chicago where death potholes exist in the spring.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Yikes, just saw this — that definitely doesn’t look good. 😬 Curious what ended up happening with the repair? Did you go with a shop or tackle it yourself? Wondering what kind of costs I should be expecting if this happens to me. 😅
Well I would imagine a shop would cost more/a lot. Even if it was the $136 an hour the shop I was using in Durham, NC was working on it. I shudder to think what they would charge, as per in terms of hours and what all actually gets replaced.

I lucked up into finding a mobile mechanic, she says she charges "way less than anyone else around".. which is exactly what is needed, because although a ball joint apparently only costs $20.. I will know more later today.

My guess is: Ball joint, axle, tie rod, and if it's just those things I hope it's not horrible. I'm guessing around $300 idk. I will know later today.

 
Well I would imagine a shop would cost more/a lot. Even if it was the $136 an hour the shop I was using in Durham, NC was working on it. I shudder to think what they would charge, as per in terms of hours and what all actually gets replaced.

I lucked up into finding a mobile mechanic, she says she charges "way less than anyone else around".. which is exactly what is needed, because although a ball joint apparently only costs $20.. I will know more later today.

My guess is: Ball joint, axle, tie rod, and if it's just those things I hope it's not horrible. I'm guessing around $300 idk. I will know later today.

I can promise a $20 ball joint will cost you more when it does the exact same thing in a year. Use OEM and only OEM ball joints for these cars.
 
My guess is: Ball joint, axle, tie rod, and if it's just those things I hope it's not horrible. I'm guessing around $300 idk. I will know later today.
For the question in your video: it's OK but unnecessary. The threads near the hub are not used anyway.

If $150 OEM ball joint is not an option, I would at least be a little picky about aftermarket. I would pick this $10 one:
More Information for SUSPENSIA X17BJ6648

The axle was pulled out of inner joint, should slide right back in, likely could be saved by getting a new boot:
More Information for MEVOTECH DX626

If DIY, the lowest cost to put it back on the road is $20 :D .
 
Hey man after seeing that you may want to lift the back end up and checkout how the rear of the body is holding up rust wise, if it’s in decent shape you may want to consider a protectant before the end of summer as I’m pretty sure you get snow in your area and with snow comes road salt and solutions that will eat this car alive, that is pending on how you are approaching the current situation at hand
 
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