Hey guys! So I'm finally doing the "Big 3" cable upgrade on my car. I've already done the battery to ground and alternator to battery connections with 4 gauge copper wire, and now all thats left is the engine to chassis connection. Where exactly is the connection located?
Where is the engine to chassis ground?
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fishymamba
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Hey guys! So I'm finally doing the "Big 3" cable upgrade on my car. I've already done the battery to ground and alternator to battery connections with 4 gauge copper wire, and now all thats left is the engine to chassis connection. Where exactly is the connection located?
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My 03' V6 has two of them. Pretty sure the I4 has the same. One is on the drivers side connecting the transmission to the frame. Basically directly below the air intake tube. The second one is on the passenger side connecting the motor to the frame. By one of the upper pully's and connects by the shock tower. Both are pretty short. About 8-10 inches long. Sadly my car is under two tarps or else I'd take pics of them for you. Perhaps someone else has some pics.
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Thank you for the help! Changed them out today. Those wires were tiny, no wonder I couldn't find them, I was looking for a much beefier wire.
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I know this post is somewhat old, but what does the " Big 3" mean and what would it do for a 7th gen Accord EXL- Navi? I should what would be the gain in doing this modification? #novicehere
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The BIG 3 is in reference to upgrading the power and ground wires of the charging system. (1)Alternator to battery power wire, (2)battery to chassis ground wire and (3)engine/transmission to chassis ground wire. These wires from factory are 8 gauge. Most people bump these up to a 4 gauge or even 1 awg. This is done to reduce resistance on the charging system and increase power flow. Helps reduce power "flickers" in the system like headlights dimming when the fans turn on. Also helps when upgrading the audio system to have a little better power.
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^
THAT
I did it because of the audio system I put in requires quiet a bit of power and I was getting crazy dimming of the lights.
IMO No point of doing it if you are running a stock setup. Unless you like working on your car...
THAT
I did it because of the audio system I put in requires quiet a bit of power and I was getting crazy dimming of the lights.
IMO No point of doing it if you are running a stock setup. Unless you like working on your car...
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I googled and landed on this topic. I'm also planning to upgrade stereo in my car. I drive 2007 Honda Accord with L4.
Instead of replacing stock ground connections, could I just add a separate 4-gauge from engine block to chassis? I guess you can say I'm trying to take lazy route for this upgrade.
Instead of replacing stock ground connections, could I just add a separate 4-gauge from engine block to chassis? I guess you can say I'm trying to take lazy route for this upgrade.
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So is it "Big 3" or "Big 4"?
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This is old but my car with stock wiring I’m running 8500w sound system my headlights turn all the way off and my radio will actually shut off as well really need to do this
Big 3 (for V6, Manual)
32601-SDB-A11 | Cable Assembly, Transmission Ground | | | |
32610-SDA-A00 | Cable, Sub-Ground | | | |
32600-SDB-A00 | Cable Assembly, Battery Ground |
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Hello so I'm curious about this as I got 2 amps in ny car and after some time noticed my vehicle will not click over I replaced the battery to a red top optima I recently replaced the starter and it is still doing this it is not every day this happens only when it wants to I was told maybe the ground wire is weak or the system is pulling to much and is causing this problem any thoughts I spent over 600 already on parts I didn't not need as my car continues to not want to start occasionally please assist me
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Sounds like your amps are still on after the engine is turned off. Or your alternator is undersized compared to the draw the amps are requiring.
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I have been telling the guy he said he will do a drsw test in it he said I can check wen I turn the car off if there is a led light on the amps after I shut the car off but this don't happen everyday its like once a week or every 2 weeks I go see him tomorrow he keeps saying it's a honda link thing which it's not he's trying to cover something up it's been issue after issue with this guy since day 1 idky he womt just say the altinatir can't handle the amps smh
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I brought it to honda they did a inspection on the ground engine wire and battery they did say the cars amps r over powering the altinator and I need a bigger 1 or a compositor but I'd rather not risk it and get the altinator and find someone to install it smh so does anyone know where I can get this from ?
The right thing to do is get a deep cycle battery and install it to support the power for the amps. Put in a battery isolator and that should solve most issues. The alternator will definitely run more and wear out more quickly. Electrical Power is not unlimited.
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Howdy ya’ll…
I have done the “big 4” but mine is a little different…
I added a 4th step, a power wire. All of my wiring is tinned ofc and KnuKonceptz is the cheapest way to go by the foot, if you wanna do it yourself. The other company that sells “kits” is Down4Sound. You will also need “battery ring lugs”(I suggest closed end with no wire showing), heat shrink(marine grade with adhesive)and optional “wire loom” for the ground wires close to the engine(alternator to battery, engine to chassis, and trans to chassis).
Lastly you will need crimpers and wire cutters weather you buy the “kit” or do it yourself. You will have to measure each wire to install as they are all different sizes, and the “kits do not come with the “power wire” I added. I had to measure the distance(I think 5 to 6 feet, I kinda guessed lol)for the added power wire by the foot…
Remember these wires are goin in the engine compartment where lots of weather will hit them. So the closed ring logs and the adhesive heat shrink will help to keep moisture and water out of the wire and they will last a lot longer…
Most all the stuff can be bought from Amazon and I will add pics of the things I got. Read the description on the lugs as the Honda cable bolts are 6mm and you don’t wanna get a lug with to big a hole…
Now to explain in detail…
I have…
1. Ground wire frame to battery.
2. Ground wire engine to chassis.
3. Ground wire alternator to battery.
I have not done trans to chassis yet but plan to in the near future(so then I will have “big 5” lol).
4. Power wire alternator to battery.
When doing the power to battery I did not remove the oem power wire I added to it, so I have double…
You need to find at least 2 copper washers(5/16 in, 3/4 od)from specialty shop. Pull back the rubber cover from the alternator power wire, unscrew the nut, put the 2 copper washers on top the oem power wire then put the added 1/0 gauge power wire on top the copper washers then put back the nut. There is enough room to put back the rubber cover to protect it from weather…
All ground wires I replaced, did not use oem as well I threw them away…
Now for visuals…
1. Ground wire frame to battery.
![Image]()
![Image]()
2. Ground wire engine to chassis. I put the wire loom on this one and zip tied it to the bracket so it would not rest on the engine as the new wire is much bigger and won’t fit.
![Image]()
3. Ground wire alternator to battery… I ran it along the radiator from alternator to battery.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
4. Power wire alternator to battery. O gauge power wire on bottom.
![Image]()
![Image]()
I also added a battery post terminal from KnuKonceptz. It’s the battery post 2gen. You need it for the extra wire connections and if you wanna add a system. I will show it in a reply post as I can’t put in any more pics, they limit to 10 per post…
I have done the “big 4” but mine is a little different…
I added a 4th step, a power wire. All of my wiring is tinned ofc and KnuKonceptz is the cheapest way to go by the foot, if you wanna do it yourself. The other company that sells “kits” is Down4Sound. You will also need “battery ring lugs”(I suggest closed end with no wire showing), heat shrink(marine grade with adhesive)and optional “wire loom” for the ground wires close to the engine(alternator to battery, engine to chassis, and trans to chassis).
Lastly you will need crimpers and wire cutters weather you buy the “kit” or do it yourself. You will have to measure each wire to install as they are all different sizes, and the “kits do not come with the “power wire” I added. I had to measure the distance(I think 5 to 6 feet, I kinda guessed lol)for the added power wire by the foot…
Remember these wires are goin in the engine compartment where lots of weather will hit them. So the closed ring logs and the adhesive heat shrink will help to keep moisture and water out of the wire and they will last a lot longer…
Most all the stuff can be bought from Amazon and I will add pics of the things I got. Read the description on the lugs as the Honda cable bolts are 6mm and you don’t wanna get a lug with to big a hole…
Now to explain in detail…
I have…
1. Ground wire frame to battery.
2. Ground wire engine to chassis.
3. Ground wire alternator to battery.
I have not done trans to chassis yet but plan to in the near future(so then I will have “big 5” lol).
4. Power wire alternator to battery.
When doing the power to battery I did not remove the oem power wire I added to it, so I have double…
You need to find at least 2 copper washers(5/16 in, 3/4 od)from specialty shop. Pull back the rubber cover from the alternator power wire, unscrew the nut, put the 2 copper washers on top the oem power wire then put the added 1/0 gauge power wire on top the copper washers then put back the nut. There is enough room to put back the rubber cover to protect it from weather…
All ground wires I replaced, did not use oem as well I threw them away…
Now for visuals…
1. Ground wire frame to battery.
2. Ground wire engine to chassis. I put the wire loom on this one and zip tied it to the bracket so it would not rest on the engine as the new wire is much bigger and won’t fit.
3. Ground wire alternator to battery… I ran it along the radiator from alternator to battery.
4. Power wire alternator to battery. O gauge power wire on bottom.
I also added a battery post terminal from KnuKonceptz. It’s the battery post 2gen. You need it for the extra wire connections and if you wanna add a system. I will show it in a reply post as I can’t put in any more pics, they limit to 10 per post…
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4. Power wire continued…
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4. Power wire continued…
I got it backward in the description b4 the pics. On the alternator the 0 gauge power wire goes on bottom then the copper washers then the oem power wire then the nut and the rubber cover, as you can see in the pics…
![Image]()
this is the post terminal v2…
![Image]()
Here are all the additional things you need to finish the project…
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
I also upgraded my battery, I believe I may have a post about that on here somewhere…
We’ll have fun and enjoy…
I got it backward in the description b4 the pics. On the alternator the 0 gauge power wire goes on bottom then the copper washers then the oem power wire then the nut and the rubber cover, as you can see in the pics…
this is the post terminal v2…
Here are all the additional things you need to finish the project…
I also upgraded my battery, I believe I may have a post about that on here somewhere…
We’ll have fun and enjoy…
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