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ttower

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am looking to get a set of winter tires and rims for my 2013 Accord V6. Stock tires are 235 wide. I am wondering what the best idea would be for winter tires. My previous cars all had 205 wide tires stock and much less power, so dry traction under acceleration was never an issue. I am debating now what to do with the Accord. A skinnier tire would be better in the snow, like a 205 or 215, but I am concerned about the power the accord puts down overwhelming a tire that size in the dry. Its already possible to briefly lose grip with the 235 wide under hard throttle. Because I have never had a car with wider tires, is a 235 wide fine in snow with proper snow tires, or is there a reason to run a skinnier tire like I am used to?
 
Winter tires using the OEM size specs will be best. Just be sure to get winter tires that has excellent snow& ice rating/performance and you will be find. Tire Rack is an excellent resource for this information.

The V6 power will not be an issue unless you plan on gunning the throttle from a stand still or drive irresponsibly in the snow. Everything can slide or be slippery in snow if pushed beyond its limits. I love seeing mofos in FWD/RWD/AWD/4WD vehicles stuck in ditches whenever it snows! :ROFLMAO:
 
I have 205-65-16 Goodyear Winter Command Ultra for winter and 215-55-17 Pirelli P7 AS+2 for 3 season.

My winter tires spin easier in dry and especially wet as compared to summer. That is also a physics thing from the tread compounds and design. Better winter performance is normally worse wet and dry. Diligence and common sense is needed when driving in all conditions and knowing the limits of your vehicle and the tires. Try some stuff in snowy parking lots etc.

Oh Yeah - I'm in '17 LX, 4cyl, 6MT so a bunch less power and torque. Wet roads, starting out slow, shift to 2nd gear, full throttle and my tires will lose traction and ESC kicks in. The 4cyl has enough torque for that, your V6 definitely will. I have no problem in winter up to ground clearance induced issues. I also know I'm not flying around corners at to high a speed knowing limits.
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I would suggest the narrowest, highest profile(sidewall) tires that can still clear the brakes on your car, but that's my 1950s common sense kicking in. 😉
 
OEM size snow tires will be fine. A skinnier tire will help cut through slush or snow (think of hydroplaning in a racing slick) but it's not like you're in a 305 or 315 tire.

As far as power, it's just knowing your car and knowing it's limits and what you're comfortable with. Easy on throttle and easy on brakes.

Even though your OEM's are 235's, keep in mind that other models have 215 (Yes even the V6 EX-L) as the OEM size.
 
If you have it, yes. But still, just being easy on the throttle is plenty.
Low gearing will only really prevent you from gaining speed going downhill.
Other than that, it just runs a higher RPM.
No need to refute. I have a heavy foot. Low gear keeps it under control on ice or snow.
 
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And put it in a low gear!
Check your owners manual and if you have "snow" or any version button, my older CRV and Forte do not. Most vehicles that do have that then change programming so it starts in 2nd gear. I don't know if just moving shift lever there does it.

In my manual transmission Accord there is much more torque in 1st gear so will spin easier even with easy throttle. 2nd gear and clutch slip limits that if really slippery starting out. I think almost all my vehicles over the past 45 years have all had whatever factory width tires for winter. I have never downsized to skinnier on purpose. I have downsized many to the smaller rim size for more sidewall and if that factory width was was a bit narrower than that is what it got. The overall diameter with more sidewall was my goal.
 
Check your owners manual and if you have "snow" or any version button, my older CRV and Forte do
not. Most vehicles that do have that then change programming so it starts in 2nd gear. I don't know
if just moving shift lever there does it.

In my manual transmission Accord there is much more torque in 1st gear so will spin easier even with
easy throttle. 2nd gear and clutch slip limits that if really slippery starting out. I think almost all my
vehicles over the past 45 years have all had whatever factory width tires for winter. I have never
downsized to skinnier on purpose. I have downsized many to the smaller rim size for more sidewall
and if that factory width was was a bit narrower than that is what it got. The overall diameter with
more sidewall was my goal.
I have the automatic on my Accord EX. Shifting from D to 3 I feel a very slight difference, and it is still possible to use cruise control. Almost like GM's 'OD' gear selection.

From D to 2 or 1 I definitely feel a difference. I can negotiate light snow or icy roads easily without having to be excessively light-footed, as I would in Drive.

The fact that narrower tires, regardless of how much sidewall, bite through frozen precip better has been scientfically proven.

For those that want to maintain OEM factory size during winter, there is always the same size snow tire or all-weather option.
 
OP was discussing the spin under hard throttle, starting or accelerating. Never use cruise control in snowy/icy conditions. Narrower will cut through easier but to what point in the tradeoff of too narrow?

Light footed to me is my brain control being appropriate for conditions. Use correct gear accordingly, not running high rpm on highway so I don't drive too fast. Different tires also change tread contact patch. My 205-65-16 GY WinterCommand Ultra have such a tapered sidewall/tread area that they list as almost 1" narrower width than the Michelin X-ice of the same size but not available for list currently but when I measured unscientific tape measure version the WinterCommand Ultra was like 6.1". Tire Rack does show 3 others 205-65-16 winter , Firestone 5.6", Bridgestone 6.4", Michelin 6.9" so factor that in when buying narrower tires to cut through easier.
 
OP was discussing the spin under hard throttle, starting or accelerating. Never use cruise control in snowy/icy conditions. Narrower will cut through easier but to what point in the tradeoff of too narrow?

Light footed to me is my brain control being appropriate for conditions. Use correct gear accordingly, not running high rpm on highway so I don't drive too fast. Different tires also change tread contact patch. My 205-65-16 GY WinterCommand Ultra have such a tapered sidewall/tread area that they list as almost 1" narrower width than the Michelin X-ice of the same size but not available for list currently but when I measured unscientific tape measure version the WinterCommand Ultra was like 6.1". Tire Rack does show 3 others 205-65-16 winter , Firestone 5.6", Bridgestone 6.4", Michelin 6.9" so factor that in when buying narrower tires to cut through easier.
You do you.

I do me.

(sick of every go_____ned body refuting me...)
 
You do you.

I do me.

(sick of every go_____ned body refuting me...)
If an honest discussion with facts is everyone refuting you because you don't agree, sorry can't help that. Different conditions apply for different people. Refute the experts in car testing and most owners manuals and they will say to not us cruise control in wet or snow. Wide vs. narrow is again dependent on conditions, scientifically proven, Nokian has it in their website and many others. Narrow is better for loose snow and slush, wider better for dry cold ground when it's not snowing, so everyone is correct depending on most usage for that person.

I pointed out that I can buy the same size tire, factory size and can have multiple widths touching the road. That might help someone that gets a flat tire and looking to replace only 1-2 tires. A 1.3" tread contact difference between Firestone and Michelin is not a small amount and may affect handling a lot more than 4 narrower or 4 wider because 2 will be totally different going around a wet or snowy turn.

None of that controls your mindset and your heavy foot as you describe. My FIL has a note on his dashboard that says don't speed and stop FULLY at all stop signs. He needs to read that everyday or he won't and has gotten pulled over for rolling slowly through stop signs. He's retired and has no where he needs to be but still can't grasp the red Octagonal sign meaning otherwise. Him doing him.

Expert drivers and testing say to put best tread depth on the rear and shops will only install new on rear unless you sign liability waiver and even then might not. Some people say they don't know reality and will put new only on front. I prefer the happy middle and rotate my tires to keep within 2/32". I also buy 4 matching tires not 2 at a time.

I hope your day gets better and you can worry (or not) about more important things in life than people on an internet forum not agreeing with you. If you can't then consider counseling, anger management, road rage control, defensive driving, Yoga, meditation or shots of Tequila at your happy place or what does it for you to bring you back to have a good day.
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Tire Rack does show 3 others 205-65-16 winter , Firestone 5.6", Bridgestone 6.4", Michelin 6.9" so factor that in when buying narrower tires to cut through easier.
@ttower in the 235-45-18 size at Tire Rack choices they list multiple different widths on the tread contact patch from 7.3" to 8.4" when you go into the specs for each if interested or it matters to you. They also list if the minus sizing for each if you want an even narrower tire.

Read the reviews for each and dive deeper on some international websites regarding performance in the different conditions from ice, snow, dry, wet and then "best overall" according to them. The caveat with that is as above, different contact patch that might affect the results in each particular test.

Some people it doesn't matter as long as they get the least expensive that meets their needs or gov't regulations. Compromises that can be justified only to yourself for what is best by your interpretation. I won't buy the WinterCommand Ultra's again even though they work as designed and price was a factor. Better than an all season IMO but a couple tradeoff's I don't like for me.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
@ttower in the 235-45-18 size at Tire Rack choices they list multiple different widths on the tread contact patch from 7.3" to 8.4" when you go into the specs for each if interested or it matters to you. They also list if the minus sizing for each if you want an even narrower tire.

Read the reviews for each and dive deeper on some international websites regarding performance in the different conditions from ice, snow, dry, wet and then "best overall" according to them. The caveat with that is as above, different contact patch that might affect the results in each particular test.

Some people it doesn't matter as long as they get the least expensive that meets their needs or gov't regulations. Compromises that can be justified only to yourself for what is best by your interpretation. I won't buy the WinterCommand Ultra's again even though they work as designed and price was a factor. Better than an all season IMO but a couple tradeoff's I don't like for me.
I have been reading through reviews for different tires. Good tires are important to me. I do enjoy driving my car, not just purely commuting, so I dont want to lose significant dry traction, but I do want winter tires that will be good in snow, hence the OP. It seems like keeping a 235 is the best option based on this thread, though I may downsize to a 225 if I find a great deal on a set of 225 tires. I would also like to get smaller rims, 16 or 17inch, for the sidewall increase (and cheaper tires).
 
I have been reading through reviews for different tires. Good tires are important to me. I do enjoy driving my car, not just purely commuting, so I dont want to lose significant dry traction, but I do want winter tires that will be good in snow, hence the OP. It seems like keeping a 235 is the best option based on this thread, though I may downsize to a 225 if I find a great deal on a set of 225 tires. I would also like to get smaller rims, 16 or 17inch, for the sidewall increase (and cheaper tires).
You need to watch to confirm. There were some threads that the 16" rims do not clear the calipers on some of the higher trim and V6 versions.

Update your profile also so it shows location. Depending where you are and planned use, one of the more "performance" winter tires might be better choice or even a better rated 3PMSF. My family further upstate on their cars range from Michelin CC2 year round to Nokian Hak 10 but on/off at almost every snow event. It keeps them happy and works for them. I don't have the time/energy so they get put on around Thanksgiving and off around Easter.

I had an older set of Nokian WRG2 on my FWD Corolla. All the "truck/SUV" owners around didn't understand how I was able to pull away from intersections while they sat with tire spinning in AWD/4WD. They also were great in dry and rain. THEN they got older, down to about 4/32" but I tried them on first snow going to work. One of my worst drives ever. Never been really white knuckled driving except that time. Lots of room, driving slow in the tracks, following the parade and still not confident. I replaced them the next day.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
You need to watch to confirm. There were some threads that the 16" rims do not clear the calipers on some of the higher trim and V6 versions.

Update your profile also so it shows location. Depending where you are and planned use, one of the more "performance" winter tires might be better choice or even a better rated 3PMSF. My family further upstate on their cars range from Michelin CC2 year round to Nokian Hak 10 but on/off at almost every snow event. It keeps them happy and works for them. I don't have the time/energy so they get put on around Thanksgiving and off around Easter.

I had an older set of Nokian WRG2 on my FWD Corolla. All the "truck/SUV" owners around didn't understand how I was able to pull away from intersections while they sat with tire spinning in AWD/4WD. They also were great in dry and rain. THEN they got older, down to about 4/32" but I tried them on first snow going to work. One of my worst drives ever. Never been really white knuckled driving except that time. Lots of room, driving slow in the tracks, following the parade and still not confident. I replaced them the next day.
I was aware of the potential for 16 inch clearance issues. If I got used rims, I would test fit, and if I got new ones they should come with a fitment guarantee or at least something. I would also probably mount a rim bare to check clearance before mounting tires as well.

As for where I live, Upstate NY. We do get decent snow. I have used the Nokian Hakkapeliitta's in the past, and they are a great tire. I took a 1st Gen CRV, fully stock with Hakkapeliitta's at 6/32 depth, through around 1.5 ft of fresh Buffalo area Lake Effect snow without an issue. Those were a 205 wide tire though, as I mentioned my previous tires all were. I have also used Continental Viking Contact 7 tires on a Subaru, and they were also great and never gave me a problem, but Subaru systems are great is snow anyway, and much different from the Accord I now have.
 
I think more of your potential issue from past experience will be the lack of ground clearance and only 2WD with not even an LSD. The snow consistency (powder or wet cement) also. My Sonata on 215-60-16 Continental ExtremeWinter Contact was good for almost 10 inches of powdery snow. Accord on WinterCommand Ultra 205-65-16 has done almost 8" of wetter snow. Both were pushing some snow and scrapping bottom of vehicle. My Sequoia on Nokian Hakkapelitta 1 and General Atimax Arctic did almost 2ft on 265-70-16 on multiple occasions. My daughters '08 CRV on 235-65-17 VikingContact 7 has done 12" of back road to hunting cabin. The AWD/4WD with winter tires makes the difference then.

Like I said earlier, most of mine get downsized wheels for more sidewall to absorb bumps and potholes. Basically factory size besides that. After that I carry collapsible shovel in each vehicle, tow straps, shackles and hitch pins in case a truck is willing to help pull me out. Tow strap direct into receiver with pin is very easy.

Sonata in parking lot at work. I wanted to see if it would get stuck. It did when I went to turn around but had ESC on. I shoveled one foot in front/back of all tires and turned ESC off. backed up and drove back out.
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Sequoia was pushing snow at top of bumper mark. In this lot it drove up on the snow under it
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