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DIY: Installing an Injen Cold-Air Intake (EX-L V6)

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xxDaJackalxx

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
How To: Install an Injen Cold-Air Intake on a 2008 or 2009 EX-L V6 Coupe.

This process is done to replace your OEM filter-box with an aftermarket high-performance cold-air intake ("CAI"). While these directions specifically discuss an Injen brand intake, I would imagine they can be duplicated to install almost any after-market CAI.

Approx. Installation Time: Less than one hour. This is a simple "out with the old, in with the new" type installation.

Things You'll Need:

  1. Philips & Flathead Screwdrivers
  2. 10mm Socket
  3. Socket Wrench

Preparation

You must remove your front bumper in order to properly complete this installation. Please see these instructions for bumper-removal.

In addition, these instructions assume prior removal of stock air resonator box. If this part has not been previously removed, please follow these quick steps:

1. With the front bumper removed, use the 10mm Socket to remove the two bolts securing the resonator to the frame.

2. Firmly pull down and out to remove the air resonator box. This may require some aggressive pulling to accomplish.
 
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Discussion starter · #2 ·
Step 1: Removing the Battery and OEM Air Box

Step 1: Removing the Battery and OEM Air Box

I suggest waiting at least 30 minutes after operating the car before attempting this installation. You will be reaching around the engine bay frequently and there is a very good chance you will burn yourself if working on a hot engine. The best time would be on a Saturday morning or something before you even take the car out.

The Battery (Image 1):

  • [A] Using the 10mm Socket, loosen the two nuts securing the battery tie down and remove them.


    Using the 10mm Socket, disconnect the negative and positive battery leads from your car battery. Take a couple old rags or similar and wrap the connectors up tight so they don't accidentally make contact with the car frame, each other, or worse - you.


    [C] Remove the battery heat cover (the plastic frame/shield around the battery) and carefully remove the battery from its tray.

Image 1



With the battery out of the way, you are free to remove your OEM filter and air box (Image 2):

  • [A] Using a Flathead Screwdriver to assist you, remove the green retaining clip attached to the mass airflow sensor ("MAS").


    Unclip the MAS wiring harness.


    [C] Using a Philips Screwdriver, remove the two screws from the MAS and set them aside, you will reuse them.


    [D] Carefully pull the MAS from the factory air-box. Put this in a safe and clean place for later.



Image 2




  • [A] Using the Philips Screwdriver, loosen the three 8mm bolts on top of the factory air-box.


    Use the Flathead Screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the factory air-box duct where it connects to the throttle body (Image 3).


    [C] Pull the PCV breather tube out of the air-box duct.


    [D] Remove the covered wires from the c-catch on the air-box duct. You do not need to unclip the harness itself.


Image 3

  • Disconnect the air-box duct from the throttle body.

  • You can now remove the upper air-box cover.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Step 1: Removing the Battery and OEM Air Box (con't)

Step 1.2: Removing the Lower Air Box

Lower Air-Box (Image 4.1)

  • [A] With the battery removed, you now have access to the lower air-box bolt. Use the 10mm Socket to remove it.


    Press on the tabs on the left side of the air-box to release the wires and pull upward to disconnect them from the air-box.


    [C] On the top right corner of the air-box is a bracket on the shock-tower. Pull towards yourself to detach the grommet from the bracket (Image 4.2).


Image 4.1

Image 4.2

You should now be able to completely remove the stock air-box.

 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Step 2: Installing the Vibra-Mounts

Step 2: Installing the Vibra-Mounts

  • [A] On the driver side shock tower wheel well, insert the male M6 Vibra-Mount into the 3/8 hole located next to the driver side engine mount. Use the included nut to secure the mount to the strut tower.



  • In the air-box resonator area, under the driver-side headlight, use the M6 hole next to the yellow air bag harness to screw in the other M6 Vibra-Mount. (The bottom-right most hole).
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Step 3: Installing the Primary Tube & Sleeve/Clamps

Step 3: Installing the Primary Tube & Clamp

The instructions that come with most intakes will suggest installing the clamp to the throttle body before attaching the primary tube. We found this order to be pointlessly difficult and instead attached the clamps to the tube first and then connected them to the throttle body.

Primary Sleeve/Clamps - X3141 (Image 5)

  • [A] The sleeve is different sizes on each opening. The larger opening is #56 (.056) and the smaller opening is #46 (.046) which are measurements that correspond to the clamps. Use the Flathead Screwdriver to loosen both clamps.

    Slide #56 over the top end of Primary Tube, making sure the MAS adapter is on the top.

    [C] Tighten the #56 clamp with the Flathead Screwdriver until it is secure.


Image 5


  • [A] Place the Primary Tube into the wheel well opening, making sure the sleeve is on top (Image 6).

    Slide the Primary Sleeve onto the throttle body until it is fully flush with the throttle body housing. Do not fully tighten clamp yet.

    [C] Line up the Primary Tube bracket with the Vibra-Mount stud located on the shock tower housing and using one fender washer and M6 nut (included), secure the bracket to the Vibra-Mount. Allow for some play so that you can adjust the alignment as necessary.

Image 6
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Step 4: Installing the Secondary Tube & Clamp

Step 4: Installing the Secondary Tube & Clamp

Secondary Sleeve/Clamps - X3144 (Image 7)

  • [A] In the area beneath the driver side headlight, place the long side of the 90-degree hose over the end of the Primary intake. Tighten the clamp to secure them together.

Image 7


  • Align and attach the Secondary Tube to the 90-degree hose, do not tighten the clamps yet. Make sure the Secondary Tube sits flush against the back-stops inside the 90-degree hose.

    [C] Alight the Secondary Tube bracket with the Vibra-Mount and attach using the fender washer and M6 nut (included).

    [D] Once the Vibra-Mount bracket is secure, tighten the clamp on the 90-degree hose where it meets the Primary Tube.


  • [E] Attach the filter over the end of the Secondary Tube. Make sure all parts are properly aligned with one another before going back to secure all clamps, including the first Vibra-Mount bracket, which should have been left loose to allow for adjustment.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Step 5: Throttle Body, Vacuum Hose & Mass Airflow Sensor

Step 5: Throttle Body, Vacuum Hose & Mass Airflow Sensor

Throttle Body & Vacuum Hose(Image 8)

  • [A] Adjusting the sleeve at throttle body as necessary, align the Primary Tube port(x) with the breather line(y).

    Attach the vacuum hose over the port on the intake and slide the breather line into it to complete the set-up.

    [C] Go back and check all clamps, nuts, and screws to insure proper installation, alignment, and tightening.


Image 8




  • [D] Reinsert the MAS into the Primary Tube and secure with the two original screws.

    [E] Reattach MAS harness and green clip.

    [F] Reinstall battery with tie down and connect positive and negative leads.

    [G] Reattach front bumper.

    [H] Start your car up and rev the hell outta that thing!

You're done!! Congrats on your Cold-Air Intake. Please feel free to PM me with any questions regarding installation. If you give me advanced notice of your DIY, I can give you my number and be on-call to answer any questions you have during the process.

Happy According!

xxDaJackalxx
 
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#8 ·
GOOD JOB! First Reply? I can use this for my I4 to remove the Air box. Thanks!
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Yes, I believe the instructions for removing the intake resonator and OEM air-box are essentially the same.
 
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#12 ·
Nice write-up Jackal...looks nice.

You guys must be getting really good at taking off that front bumper... haha I refused to take mine off for both installing my HIDs and my CAI... I always find a way around it (altho sometimes more difficult)
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys. Yeah, I can take off the bumper in like 5 minutes now that I've done it a dozen or so times (and not just on my car either).

AIJoker - No CEL after 500+ miles. All is well.
 
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#14 ·
will doing any of the mods that have to do with performance, ie: exhaust or a cold air intake void your factory warranty? I want to start doing some upgrades but i'm weary about it for that reason only. Anyone know?
 
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#15 ·
Only if the problem is caused by your performance part.
If your truly concerned about it. I'd just get an exhaust, much less risk than an cold air intake.

A dealership may try to give you shit for stuff, but they have to prove that if it was not for your aftermarket part, your car would be fine.
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Square.
 
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#18 ·
im just wondering i wana take my rear bumper off
but there are tapping screws on them if i take them off can i use the same screws to put them back on or do i have to use differnet screws to put back on the bumper
 
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#19 ·
Just to let you guys know. Idk y, but my car's resonator wasn't easy to remove by any stretch of the word. In fact, there is one piece still in there. I dont know the exact name, but its the part that actually brings in the outside air. Not the part right up against the bumper, but the plastic piping that goes down underneath the battery.

This piece (on my car) is bolted, in two places, to the metal plate the battery sits on. I tried to reach these bolts using several different tools, but couldn't get to it without taking the plate off. So, I tried taking the plate off; which is a whole 'nother barrell of monkeys. There are 2 visible bolts, one only accessible by taking (what i think is the ECU's) screws off and moving to the side. After taking out the two bolts the plate is snuggly secured by atleast one bolt i found to the side of the frame in another unreachable place.

That's why that piece is still in there.

My other problem was that the other piece that goes from the resonator to the airbox itself is (rather was) connected to the resonator via 2 rivets.

So, to conclude, my install was no sub-1 hour job. It took me quite a while to do this by myself. Yes, this is my first time installing a CAI; without the help of my knowledgeable father anyway. I wanted to do it myself, and kept most of the pieces in factory condition. Everything can be re-used, the only problem is the place where the rivets were is broken (due to frustration) and the pipe from the resonator to the airbox may have some grass/dirt inside from my punting it across my backyard.

All-in-all, it wasn't that difficult, just wasn't anticipating having to face these obstacles since there was no word of it in the instructions or in this setup.

EDIT: I LOVE this intake! it sounds awesome when you open it up, but under normal driving conditions is hardly noticeable (sleeper) + NO CEL
 
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