[Accordable]

Is there any major differences between these years?

I'm looking for a used car this summer and comparing these years but also comparing civics of similar years.

But, I thought I should really consider the Accord although I think the main difference is that the '02 had better safety specs.

Also, I read mixed reviews on tranny, from it's car-to-car and depends if it was abused and also recommendations to buy a tranny cooler (where do you get those - the dealer or a Japanese import shop or?) if you get an auto. Of course, others insist that you don't risk it and go for a manual/5spd and call it a day. The problem is restricting the search to only 5spd, makes it harder to find a decent car - in decent shape - but also manual transmission.

The Civics '96 - '02 (I'll probably look at '03 and maybe '04, too) don't have as widespread an auto tranny issue?

Another reason, I'm inclined to prefer the Accord is that it has more hp and as long as I just look at LX and EX, it will have plenty (148 or 150) whereas most Civics will be 106hp unless I find LX and EX?

I'm in Canada.

Both models have rust and rust around the wheel well and quarter panel - and for both, here, the mileage is often close to 300K km or more. So, it will be difficult to find a cheap car in decent shape. I don't mind fixing and some repairs but nothing major.

I am told that the '00 to '02 Accords are pretty reliable/maintenance free (relatively speaking - nothing major but mostly routine/typical repairs) but that's just with standard shift/manual versions and a bit of suspension and possibly pain issues.

Comments?

Thanks for any info/insight/advice.

 

[slimm1469]

On those model years, it's the V6 auto trans that can be a, er, problem. I experienced it, avoid the V6 models. The i4 is among the best engines Honda has made. The cars are solid, well built and reliable.

 

[jb1331]

My 1998 in my sig tranny went out at 176k.. tranny was not maintained very well, but everything else was. I had a low mileage JDM tranny put in a couple of years ago for $750 installed, and it has been great ever since. Currently at 196k and my car is doing awesome.. I have not replaced one sensor on my 98... I have replaced the radiator, purge solenoid, distributor (to resolve internal oring leak), power steering pump (only because the old one was noisy in cold weather until the car warmed up), hoses, bulbs, vtech gasket, and normal wear stuff like breaks. I have had a couple of complete timing belt jobs with water pump, other belts, and valve jobs. Everything else is still original and this car runs like a top. Still on original suspension..

Amazing car.. so impressed, I bought a 2001 last year with 27k original miles and from the experience with my 98, I am doing drain and fills on the tranny every 10k miles. Hope to get 300k out of this car now. My 98 runs and drives better than alot of cars with 75k miles.

If you are buying a car that probably has > 150k miles on it and don't know the previous maintenance history, the tranny life is a tossup with just about any car with that amount of miles.

 

[Accordable]

On those model years, it's the V6 auto trans that can be a, er, problem. I experienced it, avoid the V6 models. The i4 is among the best engines Honda has made. The cars are solid, well built and reliable.

Agreed. I'm not looking at V6 models. At least with the i4 models, I can find some 5spd cars, too.

My 1998 in my sig tranny went out at 176k.. tranny was not maintained very well, but everything else was. I had a low mileage JDM tranny put in a couple of years ago for $750 installed, and it has been great ever since. Currently at 196k and my car is doing awesome.. I have not replaced one sensor on my 98... I have replaced the radiator, purge solenoid, distributor (to resolve internal oring leak), power steering pump (only because the old one was noisy in cold weather until the car warmed up), hoses, bulbs, vtech gasket, and normal wear stuff like breaks. I have had a couple of complete timing belt jobs with water pump, other belts, and valve jobs. Everything else is still original and this car runs like a top. Still on original suspension..

Amazing car.. so impressed, I bought a 2001 last year with 27k original miles and from the experience with my 98, I am doing drain and fills on the tranny every 10k miles. Hope to get 300k out of this car now. My 98 runs and drives better than alot of cars with 75k miles.

If you are buying a car that probably has > 150k miles on it and don't know the previous maintenance history, the tranny life is a tossup with just about any car with that amount of miles.

$750?!? That's not bad at all. Is that typical? I had the impression that a new AT (JDM?) was well over $1000? I think I can find a few local sites that might list some prices for a new AT. If everything else on the car is fine - paint, body, engine, suspension etc. - then that is worth it for sure. Not bad.

Thanks for that info! I will look for a car of this vintage.

Edit: I found an online ad for install of '98 - '02 Accord auto tranny for $780 and $700 for manual transmission (installed). So, it sounds right? That's for the 4 cyl. 2.3L. The same year V6 is $1200 for a new AT installed!

 

[Amar]

Where in Canada are you located if i might ask?

 

[Accordable]

Where in Canada are you located if i might ask?

Ontario.

 

[enne]

Don't spend money on a transmission until the stock one fails. And don't cheap out on who you take it to...$780 for a new transmission installed sounds a little fishy to me.

 

[big_eddy]

All depends on the history of the vehicle.

I standardized on the G6 as our family vehicle for many years, before "updating" the standard to G7s for our last 2 cars. The G6s are good cars. Very reliable, and easy enough to maintain, but you need to start with one that has been take care of. At this age - you'll find everything from 1 owner dealer maintained gem, to ratted out, fart canned highschool drag machines. For what its worth, I'd avoid coupes, avoid v6's, and if you can drive stick, look for a manual tranny.

I currently have a 98 with 350km (originally BC car) that is somewhere between Ontario and BC right now, and I have NO concerns that my son and his GF will get to Vancouver and back in it. It was well maintained prior to us getting it, and since then as well. It has needed some suspension bits, brakes, muffler and various consumables over the 6 years we have had it.

I just got rid of another 98 with ~200km that was done. Burning oil, misfired, low compression on one cylinder, rusty and the clutch was slipping. Several owners before we got it, poor maintenance - but we needed something quickly and it was cheap. No point pouring any more money into it. I tried unsuccessfully for months to sell it for $750 as is, and finally scrapped it.

My eldest is driving a 2002 that's in the middle. Lots of dents and dings, but the engine and transmission are good. We had to put a clutch in it when he first got it, and the brake lines will need replacing soon, but other than that it's a solid car. He's put 100km on it in 3 years with the clutch as the only major expense.

Look hard, ask for the maintenance records, and if ANYTHING about the car seems off, trust your gut and look elsewhere. There are LOTS of these cars for sale. Definitely a buyers market and you can afford to be picky.

Max price I'd consider would be $2000, safety included, $1500 without.

I'm in Ontario too - post a link to some of the ones you're considering and we can provide feedback as appropriate.

 

[salcuta]

Don't spend money on a transmission until the stock one fails. And don't cheap out on who you take it to...$780 for a new transmission installed sounds a little fishy to me.

I wouldn't want it to fail on a long trip from home.

 

[enne]

OP seemed like he was insinuating he would be dropping a new trany in whichever car he finds regardless of condition, that's why I recommended that. If it ain't broke don't fix it kinda thing, you know?

Of course if the transmission isn't in good standing when you get it, then yeah, I'd get a new one put in possibly. Depends on the car's history, like big_eddy mentioned.

Trust me, I'm going through an "it's broke, so fix it" situation right now with my other car...

 

[Amar]

Ontario.

Ontario is quite large buddy lol. If you're around toronto/ottawa you should have lots of places to look

 

[Accordable]

All depends on the history of the vehicle.

I standardized on the G6 as our family vehicle for many years, before "updating" the standard to G7s for our last 2 cars. The G6s are good cars. Very reliable, and easy enough to maintain, but you need to start with one that has been take care of. At this age - you'll find everything from 1 owner dealer maintained gem, to ratted out, fart canned highschool drag machines. For what its worth, I'd avoid coupes, avoid v6's, and if you can drive stick, look for a manual tranny.

I currently have a 98 with 350km (originally BC car) that is somewhere between Ontario and BC right now, and I have NO concerns that my son and his GF will get to Vancouver and back in it. It was well maintained prior to us getting it, and since then as well. It has needed some suspension bits, brakes, muffler and various consumables over the 6 years we have had it.

I just got rid of another 98 with ~200km that was done. Burning oil, misfired, low compression on one cylinder, rusty and the clutch was slipping. Several owners before we got it, poor maintenance - but we needed something quickly and it was cheap. No point pouring any more money into it. I tried unsuccessfully for months to sell it for $750 as is, and finally scrapped it.

My eldest is driving a 2002 that's in the middle. Lots of dents and dings, but the engine and transmission are good. We had to put a clutch in it when he first got it, and the brake lines will need replacing soon, but other than that it's a solid car. He's put 100km on it in 3 years with the clutch as the only major expense.

Look hard, ask for the maintenance records, and if ANYTHING about the car seems off, trust your gut and look elsewhere. There are LOTS of these cars for sale. Definitely a buyers market and you can afford to be picky.

Max price I'd consider would be $2000, safety included, $1500 without.

I'm in Ontario too - post a link to some of the ones you're considering and we can provide feedback as appropriate.

Looking at ones under $800 that I would fix/repair.
E.g. 2001 Honda Accord EX:
needs a clutch
2001 Honda Accord EX Sedan | used cars & trucks | Kitchener / Waterloo | Kijiji

What do you think? That's just an example. I know I should try to find a vehicle that's already ready for safety but I was hoping to get something soon and then (as $$ allows) fix it when I have the cash provided the repairs are minor or routine (nothing major engine-related). That's why I asked about repairing an AT or the cost for the repair. It would be good to find a car for future work and I could 'upgrade' to a better car later on. I guess it depends on the history of the vehicle (preferring to see service records?) whether one should risk taking a chance on any of these older (cheaper) cars?

Ontario is quite large buddy lol. If you're around toronto/ottawa you should have lots of places to look

Closer to Toronto than Ottawa. I don't know the Toronto shops, though.

 

[anwar]

If you do mostly highway driving get a 5spd manual. For the automatic, drive the car and see how the tranny shifts, look for any slipping. check the tail pipe, oil burners will have a black residue/carbon when you wipe your finger. Make sure Timing belt,water pump was replaced on schedule.

 

[Accordable]

If you do mostly highway driving get a 5spd manual. For the automatic, drive the car and see how the tranny shifts, look for any slipping. check the tail pipe, oil burners will have a black residue/carbon when you wipe your finger. Make sure Timing belt,water pump was replaced on schedule.

Thanks! I do mostly inner city driving but the traffic mostly varies... not a lot of stop-and-go unless it's a busy time (people going to or from work) or there's construction. Same with the occasional highway drive.

If the auto is slipping, is it mostly noticeable from a stop? I think there's sometimes slipping on a truck I occasionally drive. I think it jerks sometimes from a P to OD. I also think I read on here or other Honda forums of some examples some posters gave but I forget. I think 1st to 2nd or something is sometimes with hesitation or slipping on some Accord ATs?

Yeah, timing belt/water pump needs to be replaced on schedule but not everyone keeps good service records (copies)? Hopefully, I find a seller that does. I guess mileage doesn't matter too much as long as the tranny/engine is good and there's not too much rust/corrosion with the underside (suspension/break/fuel lines - sometimes are in bad shape?), right?

 

[anwar]

Almost all the car's in your region has been thru the winter's/road salt. Unless it came from another area. When you buy a car with that kind of age, mileage, nothing is guaranteed. If you have time keep looking you may come across a good one. If tranny is bad it will show, drive it hard you will feel how it shifts....

 

[big_eddy]

I've looked at a lot of these cars over the years. Here's a quick rundown of my usual process

I always talk to the seller on the phone for at least 15 mins asking a ton of question before I even ask to see the car. I have a crib sheet I use to make sure I cover everything. Phone interview includes car history, reason for selling, any known issues or needed repairs, any recent repairs, sellers opinion as to whether it will pass a safety, as well as my "gut feel" check of the seller.
If I'm not aligned with the asking price, the phone discussion also confirms the price range I'm thinking of. "I see you're asking $3000. That's a bit more than I was planning to spend, but then again your car is newer (lower mileage, better trim, pick one) than I was originally looking for. If my budget is only $2600, am I wasting your time coming to look at it?"

Once I schedule a time to see the car, I let the seller know I plan to go over the car thoroughly and to plan a couple of hours. I tell them I will bring some tools so they are not surprised when the jack comes out.
Take tools, flashlight, jack and stands, code reader, creeper (a crazy carpet makes a cheap and easy creeper), clean white rag etc.

Once you get there, ask the owner lots of additional questions, and confirm the answers with your own observations. I'm not saying a seller will lie to you, but I would not expect to get "the whole truth" from the seller.

Task 1 -Sound body / frame (Show Stopper)
* Look at the frame for serious rust, especially around the jack points. If you can't jack the car off the ground using all 4 jack points because the frame / body is rotted, go no further. Bad ones, you crank the jack and the jack point just pushes up through the body.
* Look at the inner fenders in the front of each of the rear wheel wells. These are bad spots for rust-through, and once there is a hole there, the whole frame will follow quickly. Don't be worried about rusting around the perimeter of the back wheel wells - that is almost guaranteed.
* Open the trunk and look at the bottom of the spare tire well for rusting. Look behind the carpets on both sides behind the rear wheels.
* Look at the sub frame members under the engine behind the right front wheel. Something related to the AC drain lines caused rusting in that area. If the sub-frame is rotted, replacement is not simple.
* Brake lines and fuel lines are known problem areas. By now, they should have been replaced.

Task 2 - Solid engine and transmission (Show stoppers)
* I won't (knowingly) purchase a car that already needs engine or transmission work including clutch. Too many other good running cars out there that don't.
* Take a code reader with you. Hook it up. Check that all monitors are set. Check the time / distance since last reset. You don't want to be the guy that buys the car where the codes were reset yesterday. Check that the MIL does come on during the start up sequence then goes out. (Yes - it happens - my son looked at a jeep last week where the MIL bulb was missing)
* Pull the dip stick (and transmission stick) and check them. Beware brand new oil or transmission fluid unless the seller already mentioned that he changed them. Transmission - dry it on a white cloth. Look for a nice red colour. Black is bad. Rub it between your fingers and feel for grit.
* Remove the oil filler plug and shine a flashlight in. Look for a "clean" valve train. No sludge or blackened areas.
* Roll underneath and look for leaks. There will be leaks - any car this old without leaks a) is empty of fluids or b) was just degreased and washed. Seeps and wet spots are normal. Any fresh or clean fluid is not.
* Start it up and let it idle with the hood up. Listen for abnormal noises. Listen for an uneven idle or misfires. Listen for exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks. Let it idle long enough that the fans come on and go back off. Don't be in a hurry here. Other than the idle drop once it starts to warm up, there should be no change in tempo. Car should sit and purr. Beware the owner who wants to rush into a test drive.

Task 3 - Tires, Suspension, Steering and brakes. (most of these are cheap and easy to replace yourself, so not show stoppers)
Jack up one side of the car and remove the front wheel. I like to do the drivers side as it tends to be more exposed to road slop, and carries more weight.
Common wear areas
* Ball joints
* Upper Control arm pivots.
* Suspension arm bushings
* Sway bar links
* CV Axles and boots
* Front caliper slides
* Wheel Bearings
* Any play in any portion of the suspension.

Task 4 - Road Test - You need to cover the whole range of driving experience, from low speed maneuvering to highway driving.
* Engine - acceleration and deceleration, smoothness, noise.
* Transmission and clutch. Sound, shifting, slipping. All gears. Including reverse.
* Suspension - low speed, smooth, bumpy, turns, high speed. Noises and clunks etc.
* Braking - smooth, linear, noises, pedal feel, vibration
* Coasting - transmission in neutral - any change in noises or vibration?

Task 5 - Post drive inspection.
* Any new lights on the dash?
* Any leaks that weren't visible before?
* Any abnormal smells?

If you've got this far and you're still interested, then it's time to ask to see the maintenance records and ask what is included with the car. Spare parts, winter tires, roof racks etc.

And it's time to mentally calculate the $$ you're going to have to spend to get it certified before you start to negotiate.
I'm not going to derail this discussion by going into negotiations strategy. That's a whole different topic.

 

[anwar]

Wow!

Salute to Big_eddy, No one could have explained the process better. Were you looking at these car's for business <car dealer> etc, or mostly for your own daily driver?

 

[big_eddy]

Personal. 4 boys all going different directions in a rural community = quite a number of vehicles over the years. I tend to "standardize" for the family fleet. Makes it easy to get to know the common issues. Accords - originally Gen 4s then Gen 6s and now Gen 7s.

I looked at a 2004 Pilot tonight to potentially replace my F-150. Same process.

 

[anwar]

I see, your the Family Mechanic.
big_eddy please tell me your opinion on this one. My 01 LX 4cyl auto, every now and then when I hit bumps or potholes under load, I can feel a rattle- slight vibration, Not car shaking, or hard vibration....then I lift off my foot from gas pedal and it's gone. Its for a couple of seconds . It never does it on Highway speeds. Could this be a suspension part, hope not tranny.

 

[big_eddy]

If my response prompts additional qustions, you should start a new thread so we don't go off track too far here, but a quick reply won't hurt.
1) A rattle or slight vibration is often the heat shield over the catalytic converter. It would likely rattle if you rev it up a few times stopped too.
2) A clunk over potholes is often the sway bar links - although they clunk over bumps at low speed regardless of load.
3) Upper control arm (A-Arm) bushings will clunk as well.

Task #1 is to figure out what side of the car it's coming from (or under the car) then jack that side up and feel for play.