Honda Accord Forums - The DriveAccord community is where Honda Accord 2003+ owners can discuss reviews, service, parts, and share mods. banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
The only other tool you may need is this.
Image

Impact driver to remove the screw holding the rotor to the hub.....
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I was hoping to just use a battery powered hammer drill to do that job. Should have the same effect.

What about the Hub Bolt? How do you get that off?
 
No you won't need to remove the hub. Power hammer drill may work.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Shop quoted me $200 just to cut the two front rotors...

I laughed...

$60 for two front rotors at Advanced Auto. They only need to last me until I get pads again in about a year.
 
Ill be doing the same when I need to get my rotors turned. Cheaper to buy new ones.
 
It is fairly easy if you've ever done brakes before. Extra tools you might need C-Clamp & 8mm bolts probably like 2" or 3" long.

Take off tire, take off caliper 2 bolts, pry off caliper and hang it with something not the brake lines, you will need a C-clamp to push the piston back in.
Take off the caliper bracket, the other 2 bigger bolts.

Image


remove the 2 phillips screws (battery powered impact works too but i've stripped bolts before that way, take a #3 phillips and hammer it a few times before trying to impact), it would be nice to have 2 8mm bolts to put into the threaded holes to push the rotor off if it is seized (located at 5 oclock and 11oclock).

Image


replace new rotor and reverse process to put it all back together.

If you are good, you can do it in 45mins to an hr.

First timer? I'd say 3-4 hours or so for both sides.
 
I'm not touching pads, so it should be easier than that even

Brembo Rotors decent?
You MUST pull off the pads to even get the rotor off. depending on how bad your pads are it can ruin your new rotor fast.

Brembo blank rotors are one of the best. Oh yeah buy brake cleaner to clean the machine oil off the rotors before installing.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Shop says pads are still good with 6mm of meat on them. I wanted to avoid having to bleed the brakes if possible.

Is there an easy way to push the caliper piston back out without getting brake fluid everywhere?
 
you dont need to bleed if you just push the piston back in with a c-clamp, just make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
you dont need to bleed if you just push the piston back in with a c-clamp, just make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir
\

I think I might have too much in the reservoir and it might over flow.

Happened last time, but didn't seem to affect anything. I've heard brake fluid is rather caustic.
 
Using old pads on new rotors is the best way to kill your new rotors. It will take forever to bed them, and in doing so you'll have localized heat in certain areas of contact. Very bad. Buying the cheapest pads out there is better than reusing old ones on new rotors!

And if you replace the little phillps screws (IF) add some anti-seize and they will never be a problem again.
 
+1 on replacing the pads. You're taking off the old one, might as well install new ones....
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Just got 4 Brembo Blank rotors shipped from TireRack for what the shop wanted to charge just to cut the fronts. Maybe $100 for new pads all around and a half days work to put it all on. My Dad's buddy has a lift.

I easily saved myself $500 in labor.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
\

I think I might have too much in the reservoir and it might over flow.

Happened last time, but didn't seem to affect anything. I've heard brake fluid is rather caustic.
Just use a plastic spoon and a paper cup (or something similar) and take a little fluid out before pushing the caliper in.
 
so you plan on doing the rears too? the rear piston is different. Its a screw style. You need to turn it back in with a disc brake tool or a crowbar of some sort.

Image
 
Brembo makes a great rotor. I'm running plain Brembos and HP+ pads on my M3 for autocross, and the braking is outrageous.
 
Nobody ever talks about cleaning the rust off the hub when replacing rotors which is VERY important. Even when resurfacing the inside of the rotors should be rust free as well as the hub. Also the caliper bracket needs to be cleaned from rust. The little clips should be removed and a wire brush will remove the rust if no air tools are available. A layer of lube should be put there than clips should be cleaned and lubed. Also the slide pins need to be cleaned and re lubed. Another lube point is the pads back sides and edges, any where they make contact. When I do my own brakes, not a customers car I also lube the caliper where it touches the pads along with the piston. I know it's over kill. Then every 15K the brakes are taken apart for cleaning a re lubing. Brakes last much longer when they move freely.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts