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Tracy78

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I replaced the battery, alternator, and starter then the alternator went bad after 2 months along with the battery. The battery light is still coming on. WHY? I have replaced 2 batteries and 2 alternators. I’m frustrated
 
Do you have anything installed in the car that has high current draw? An amplifier for example?

You really need to figure what is causing the stress on the charging system before you replace anymore parts.
 
Do you have anything installed in the car that has high current draw? An amplifier for example?

You really need to figure what is causing the stress on the charging system before you replace anymore parts.
+1 on this

also… when you put in the alternator is there any chance you used it to charge a dead battery after jumping?

Also. Did the batteries get tested properly to confirm they were bad?
 
Been there Tracy. If it's a V6, there's a small VTEC solenoid positioned right above the alternator, and leaks right into it. If you have a 4-cyl, search for a leak into the alt. I went through two of them also.
 
What BRAND were the 2 new alternators (had 3 new NAPA ones fail) ? Electrical parts bought @ some chain stores can be problematic, especially if the top tier part wasn't bought. Were the new batteries fully charged up before being installed ? Check all grounds & cables for tightness & make sure they are corrosion free. As the other posters said look for something leaking into the alternator from above it.
 
There is no solenoid on the front valve cover for the J30A4 or A5 engines to leak oil onto the alternator with. BUT, if the front valve cover is leaking oil at the front passenger side corner, it would cause the same issue.

Battery light on while the car is running means alternator current / voltage regulator issue, or alternator pulley is seized and alternator stator isn't really turning.

The problem is with where you bought the alternator from. If it's from your local not-in-the-zone autozone or O-O-O-Oreiley then that's the issue. I suggest you buy a used OEM alternator from LKQ online.
 
Read this post about my alternator issues. This is why you can't assume you got a good alternator from the parts store.

 
So whats the battery voltage? Whats the alternator voltage? What are the measured cranking amps? What kind of loads are on the battery with everything off? If you have checked all of this with no parasitic draw, then it would point to the alternator. If you have a battery and charging system tester it will literally tell you whats wrong. It tests the ripple of the alternator, cranking amps and everything you need to know. Maybe you have one of these already, but we don't know that. If not, here's a good couple of testers.

TOPDON AB101 Car Battery Tester 12V Car Battery Load Tester on Cranking Charging Systems, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Analyzer for Cars/SUVs/Light Trucks with Flooded AGM Gel Types Amazon.com

Car Battery Tester 12V Load Tester, TOPDON BT100 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Tester Digital Auto Battery Analyzer Charging Cranking System Tester for Car Truck Motorcycle ATV SUV Boat Yacht Amazon.com
 
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