[bradbullock]

Having an issue with a parasitic battery drain on my 2014 accord EX-L Sedan (no nav). If I go about 16 or more hours without driving it, the battery will be dead.

Tested my battery and alternator...they are fine. Unplugged the negative terminal and left it overnight and it starts fine in that case.

Using my multimeter I found that my car is pulling 470 mAmps while it is turned off, but when I pull fuse 21 in the engine compartment fuse box, the Amps go all the way down to around 10 mAmps which I assume is normal. So that's the circuit in question...something that is controlled by engine compartment fuse 21 which is titled "Back Up".

When I pull that fuse with my car on, it gives me a warning in my dash board saying "Failed Forward Collision Warning System" so I am sure that is one of the things controlled by that fuse. The car won't start without that fuse in either.

I am looking all over to try and find what electrical components are controlled by that fuse, and any diagrams as to where those components are located. Can't seem to find that info anywhere. Can anyone help me figure out which systems are controlled by the "Back Up" #21 fuse? I'm happy to dig in and unplug them one by one to find the problem. But would rather not take my whole car apart!

Thanks!

 

[Miker]

@bradbullock

ambient light,cargo area light,ceiling light,glove box,vanity mirror,climate control HVAC,DLC,DPMS, energy management (ELD?),Entry light control,EPS, fogs, FCWsystem,lane departure,guages,headlights,HFL system,keyless access,keyless power door locks/security system,STARTING SYSTEM

Whew!

Are you letting the car go to sleep prior to that 400+ measurement? If you measure it immediately after shutting the engine you will have about 5-6 minutes or so of all those system at the ready for you to reactivate them.


Did you have the ELD fixed? If the ELD module on the battery is bad it acts like a short and that's why batteries were "blowing up" and causing a couple fires

 

[rookie]

Your car does not, by any chance, have one of those horrible dealer installed alarm systems?

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/8...ation/446138-does-anyone-know-what-aftermarket-karr-alarm-dealer-installed.html

 

[Mulyhuntr]

New here, having the same exact issue. I removed the dealer installed alarm and replaced battery. Not sure if eld was ever replaced. Anyone have any other advice or items to check?

 

[69Indian]

I am having same issue with my 2014 Accord LX. If I don't drive for a day or two, car will not start due to low battery. The parasitic draw is .25 Amp. After I pull #21 fuse, it goes to zero. I can't figure out what it controls.

 

[Ronch]

I am having same issue with my 2014 Accord LX. If I don't drive for a day or two, car will not start due to low battery. The parasitic draw is .25 Amp. After I pull #21 fuse, it goes to zero. I can't figure out what it controls.

#21, under the hood fuse panel or interior fuse panel?

#21 under hood = "back up", 10 amp
#21 interior = Driver’s Door Lock, 10 amp

Honda Accord (2014 – 2015) – fuse box diagram

(Does "back up" = back up lights?)

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Back in the day (first Accord) the "back-up" fuse would erase the memory of radio presets and would erase trouble codes when you pulled it. It was an easier way to reset the CEL instead of disconnecting the battery. Don't know if that helps, just thought I would mention it.

 

[salguod]

Having a similar parasitic drain on my 2015 Hybrid. Haven't isolated it to a particular circuit yet, but it's about 500 mA. Mine started with the car locking itself with the key fob inside overnight and now it was dead this morning. Full thread here. Can anyone in this thread share what they found the problem was?

My draw drops to zero when the 10 A fuse 21 "back up" is removed as well. At this point I'm taking it to the dealer because there's no way I'll be able to narrow it down without a service manual or wiring diagram. Printing out the list of symptoms and items I've checked to hopefully that'll point them in the right direction, assuming they will pay attention to it.

Dealer said that I missed something doing my current test. There's evidently a switch on the hood that needs to be closed in order to get a valid parasitic drain test. Once they closed it the current dropped to 9 mA.

Nothing wrong, they said. I guess we'll know for sure in the morning.

 

[Accord2016_dubai]

Hi guys, I read the thread and I have the exact same problem with fuse#21 ..upon doing a parasitic draw test ,the multimeter read 1.87amps . Upon removing the backup fuse #21 it goes to zero. Did anyone successfully solve the issue?
BTW, upon removing the fuse#21 the following seems to be not working:

1. Remote door lock/unlock
2. Ambient light sensor (came to know as the auto light function doesn't work)
3. ECU (the diagnostic computer check on the drivers side, ECU or whatever its called)

The remaining things seems to be working fine...
I have an OEM battery installed, 51R and the battery reads 12.8Volts


Update: As suggested by a user, i tried closing the hood to read the parasitic draw and the reading decreased to 0.12amps which although is a bit higher but still manageable..I've decided to replace the battery.

 

[brindan10]

Dealer said that I missed something doing my current test. There's evidently a switch on the hood that needs to be closed in order to get a valid parasitic drain test. Once they closed it the current dropped to 9 mA.

Nothing wrong, they said. I guess we'll know for sure in the morning.

We’re you able to solve the problem? Currently have the same thing. “Back Up” fuse draws 400 milliamps. Once I pull it, goes down to 20 milliamps.

 

[salguod]

After replacing the 12v battery, I don't think I ever had the issue come back again. I didn't like the response from the dealer, but based on it not recurring, it seems that they were correct.

 

[Accord2016_dubai]

Good job, my issue was solved after replacing the battery too.. It appears that although the battery was reading correct voltage.. There was an issue with the battery capacity.

 

[bfrefrigsales]

I'm new to this group. Still have my 2014 Honda Accord EX-L. I've gone through about 4 batteries, including a 100 month Honda replacement battery that they prorate. The draining of the battery seems logical, without me testing it that way. BUT, the problem always has started after the car has sat for several days and the key fob has caused the drivers power seat to move position prior to starting! When I've complained to the dealer, multiple times over the years, they say that option can't be turned off. Now need to replace battery again and think maybe I'll set both #1 & #2 seat positions the same. Any comments?

 

[hattrick65]

I am experiencing the same fuse #21 parasitic draw issue with my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. The battery will only keep a charge great enough to start the engine, if I remove the fuse after parking the car for any extended period. Apparently, the fuse (labeled 'Backup") ties into to the same circuit for ALL the following components/systems: ambient light, cargo area light, ceiling light, glove box, vanity mirror, climate control HVAC, DLC, DPMS, energy management (ELD?), Entry light control, EPS, fogs, FCW system, lane departure, gauges, headlights, HFL system, keyless access, keyless power door locks/security system, STARTING SYSTEM. Whenever I pull the fuse and then go to reinsert it, I can hear a clicking noise (like what a relay might do) coming from the firewall area, beside or behind the brake booster. I CANNOT pinpoint with any certainty where/what the noise is originating from, but I have to assume that it's tied into a relay and/or component in that general area! Has there been ANYONE involved in this thread and/or this forum who has been able to figure out what (component or system) maybe causing this ISSUE!!!???

 

[dirtdevil10]

In my mind, my 2014 Accord Sport has excessive parasitic draw. Here's what I've measured;
Doors locked, hood latched: 75-85 mA (bounces up to 85 each time the theft light on the gauges iluminates)
Doors locked, hood unlatched: 73 mA
Doors unlocked: 275 mA
Removing each under hood mini-fuse (including #21) or disconnecting the alternator connector did not change these values. Pretty sad that my 2002 Accord is more reliable when it comes to holding a charge.

 

[Miker]

In my mind, my 2014 Accord Sport has excessive parasitic draw. Here's what I've measured;
Doors locked, hood latched: 75-85 mA (bounces up to 85 each time the theft light on the gauges iluminates)
Doors locked, hood unlatched: 73 mA
Doors unlocked: 275 mA
Removing each under hood mini-fuse (including #21) or disconnecting the alternator connector did not change these values. Pretty sad that my 2002 Accord is more reliable when it comes to holding a charge.

How long are you waiting after shuttting of the car or are these readings hours after turning the engine off?

Maybe you are not aware that the system needs to go to sleep after about 30 minutes after turning the engine off.

From an old post of mine when I did the similar test albeit on the V6 but should be similar.
Now, I tried a parasitic draw test to see what the draw was measuring and this is what I found.

Stopped engine, turned off the radio, lights, A/C controls, dome light, map light switches. Closed the door, but did not arm the alarm system or lock the doors.

Initially measured a 0.500 A (500 mA) draw for 2 minutes
dropped to 0.200 A (200 mA) draw for 1 minute
then dropped to .091 A (91 mA) for 20 minutes. Yes, 20 timed minutes.:yes:

Heard something clunk off under the hood and final sleep mode parasitic draw went all the way down too.......

Bada Boom Bada Bing

0.009 A (9 mA) WAY under the generic industry standard maximum of 30 mA.

So it seems that for at least 25 minutes after parking with no alarm set, like in your garage, it is at or above approximately 100 mA. Probably should have tried it with the alarm. That's for another day.

 

[dirtdevil10]

Thanks for the reply Miker. I've been dealing with this issue for a few years now. Gone through about 4 Costco batteries. Battery is dead in about 3-5 days in the heated garage. During my testing today, I would see it drop from about 280mA to the 75-80 within a couple of minutes. I'm pretty sure that in my previous testing, I let it sit for more than 1/2 hour and it didn't drop any further by I will confirm it tomorrow.

 

[mtts60]

Don't forget to clean the top of the battery too.

Battery Care and Maintenance Tips -EricTheCarGuy (youtube.com)

 

[dirtdevil10]

Update: Just tested again and left it for over 40 minutes with no change. After about 2 minutes the draw dropped to 75-85mA and stayed there for the duration..

 

[Miker]

still a tad bit high but at least it's not a quarter amp (.275 A / 275 mA)

Any aftermarket goodies on the car?