[dhpark88]

Ok people so I was at work (honda) and it was raining and I said lets find out some answers. I went to a tech and we had a sport and ex-l v-6 side by side. So all the people wondering if it can be done well sorta....LEDs are 3pin regular are 2pin so you would have to do some splicing and wiring with the harness. I dont know if its worth all the trouble for just LED running lights.? opinions and input please. also if your a tech more input would be helpful.

I'm looking into buy a 2013 Accord, so, I've been looking up on certain things. But from what I can see ... the LED's are a 3 pin (an extra wire) because it functions as a DRL. However, on the lower model Accords, it is a 2-pin because it is activated/used for only parking lights (high-beams are the DRL). If the LED running lights are what you're looking for, it should be possible to get a connector that works with them, and use only 2 wires for power and ground... but it would work as "parking lights" and your high beams would still be your DRL's. I'm not 100% sure on this ... but, from what I remember looking at the diagram, I think that is why there is a difference between the 3-pin and 2-pin.

I'm also looking into putting the rear LED taillights onto a Sport. So far, looks not too hard, just a connector issue...but, I guess i'll find out when/if I get to do it.

 

[dhpark88]

Thats what he told me yesterday if you do it you would have to have them on when parking lights are on. which is kinda stupid IMO. The led tails what would you have to do with them to make them work I havent looked at those we took a peak and he was like should be possible. Thanks

For the LED taillights, it looks like its a simple matter of swapping connectors and rewiring the order that it goes in. For example, the regular bulb taillights are 4 pin connectors, however, one of them is not used. The led connector are three pins, but in a different order. So, when changing out the connectors to the ones that properly fit, its just making sure u put them in the correct order. (This is only for the very outer connector, the inner LED connector, I believe are both 2-pin but again different connectors shapes.

 

[dhpark88]

Alright guys. So, I've been digging around ... and this is what I got so far. Looks like the LED driver is attached to the headlight. Like so:

So, I am guessing it comes as one unit all together. One issue that I saw was the MICU directly can sense, and will illuminate a light onto the dash, if one of the LED headlight does not work (I'm not sure if this is feature that is apart of the regular halogens) so, the MICU with the PCM might have special programming.

As someone showed before, the issue is how many wires are going to the LED headlight driver. At this point, if its two wires like the regular halogen setup, the swap is looking plausible.

It looks like the LED headlight connection is the same connector as the turn signal connector.
So, you would need P/N: 04321-T2A-305

Then, you will need to change the lower marker bulb connector to the LED daytime running strip connector: P/N 04321-S0X-305

After all this...you still won't be able to use the LED strip of lights as your daytime running lights- only as your markers (your high-beams will be used like before). The reason why I say its not more likely possible is because the models (V6 and touring) with the LED strip have a separate circuit and relay for just the LED DRL's. And for those of us, who have a 4cyl, its wired and programmed to use the high-beams as the DRLs. But, I'm not 100% sure, so maybe someone will figure a way around it.

Basically, its not a direct plug and play, but it looks like its possible. :lmao:

 

[dhpark88]

Okay. I finally got to access the ewd for the 13 accord. I couldn't on my laptop for some reason at home. Well. Looks like it might not work. The led headlight driver has a three wire connector. One for power. Ground. Then gets another from the micu. Regular halogen just gets power and ground. So. The question is what does the wire coming from the micu do? That I can't answer without poking around and measuring things on a touring (which I have no access to. Work at Acura) An other thing. The connector is not combined with the turnsignal. If you look carefully at the diagram on page two. It just shows that they use the same kind of connector. For that referenced connector part, you 'll see four of the same numbers on the picture, showing that they are not combined.

Onto the next one, drl for 4 cyls does not have a separate wire or circuit to control its on/off. It is controlled by the micu using the power and ground circuit of the high beams. Which means theres no wire to tap or move to make the drl leds to work. Like I said before, the v6 and tourings have a separate circuit and relay for the led drls. :/

 

[dhpark88]

Thanks for confirming that dhpark88.

So we can assume that it's next to impossible for 4cyl Accord to upgrade to the Touring Headlamps?

I wouldn't say impossible yet... just need to find out what that wire coming from the micu to the led headlight does... I'm curious if its just a sensing wire to see if it's functioning or not. Also curious if it would work without that wire. I would love to do it as a project... if only I had 500 dollars to just waste :lmao:

 

[dhpark88]

So upgrading the V6 EX-L lights to the LED headlights should be a plug and play?

LOL. NOPE. not plug and play. I was able to look further into this and I looked at some diagnostic procedures...and it seems without that wire coming from the MICU to the LED headlights, it would cause the unit not to work. :/

It is NOW looking nearly impossible to work. But, you never know... someone might be able to figure it out, thinking outside the box. I'm just trying to utilize the system as-is without too much modification.

 

[dhpark88]

No. Everything works properly. I have high beams. Guess I should have shown that in the video. I used the relay to send power to the DRL when the relay is not energized. When the relay is energized, the high beam circuit is returned to normal. I used the low beam to energize the relay.

Looks like all of us will finally get those LED headlights after all! :banana:

LET THE MODS BEGIN!
(As I wasted money on HID's and LED's for the front headlight -.-; )

 

[dhpark88]

Any updates on this question Htg? I along with many V6 EX-L / I-4 EX-L owners are curious about this config with the 4 connector setup:thmsup:

If i'm not mistaken, I-4 EX-L would be the same as the Sport that he showed (No difference in headlights and connectors). However for those with the V6's... for the mod, I would think that all you need to do is change the wiring for the low beam connector to the LED connector. My reasoning is because the V6 cars already use the lower section LED's as the DRL, so no hassle with all the wiring and relay...all you need to do is swap the low beam connector and you're done! Any faults in my thought process?

 

[dhpark88]

Haven't been around for a while ... so, I'm just throwing my LED turn signal project update. For the front, I have 72 LED AMBER/WHITE switchbacks type I(go from amber to white and back and forth), and the rear I put in some V-LED triton RED led bulbs with their plugandplay resistor for 4 LEDS.

This is the comparison between the stock and the new Red LEDs:

Brightness at night:

Lights just on (bare with me, I know everything is glared out):

Turn signal lights on:

 

[dhpark88]

I know super late, but better late than never.

Front turn signal LED bulb: (Switchbacks) similar to: http://www.vleds.com/bulb-number/11...-changing-white-amber-switchback-92-turn-signal-bulbs-1157-2057-1-pair-b-o.html

Low-beams: 6k Morimoto 3five http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3955

Lower parking strip light: http://www.vleds.com/6k-white-4-led-2w-high-power-bulbs-194-168-158-1-pair.html

Foglights: 6k 35 watt DDM tuning HID kit http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W

Rear turn signal (RED): V3 triton V-LED bulb http://www.vleds.com/v3-r.html

194 bulbs I used for the interior: http://www.vleds.com/6k-white-3-chip-5-led-light-bulbs-194-168-158-2821-1-pair.html

 

[dhpark88]

@Jaan Lewaa Nope, you'll need a resistor ... not plug and play.
@glen e For lifetime warranty and the price, you can't beat it. With 6 sets, only ran into one bulb and one ballast problem. All others running fine without any bulb changes.
@liquid80 Just have Nokya Hyper Yellow 9005 s that I had laying around. But, I ordered some 5K 9005 LED bulbs ... so, that'll come next

 

[dhpark88]

So learned tonight that I don't have 1157 front turn signal lights...they are 3157's....so I'm gonna mod these with a 3157 male plug spliced on......(this is a 1157 LED switchback and a PnP resistor adapter...)

Hope all goes well. Before I bought a set of PnP resistors to use temporarily with my switchbacks and they didn't work. :/ Contacted the place where I bought them and supposedly the ones I bought weren't compatible with switchback LEDs. Where did you get yours from, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[dhpark88]

yeah, we'll see...no idea if these work....but says LED OK here:

http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/hpxde11pland.html

Gah ... bummer. Those were the same ones I bought. I should have posted it up on this thread. but, maybe it'll work with your switchbacks. When I used them they didn't work properly. :/ Might have to just use a regular resistor on those ... or you could cut off the PnP module/resistor and splice in some regular resistors, that way you won't have to mess around with your stock wiring.

 

[dhpark88]

I'm looking at the VLEDS Triton V3 bulbs for my front and rear turn signals in AMBER.

Socket Adapters: 1157 Front, 7443 Rears

How many resistor packs do I need? Do the non-switchbacks work in the front turn signals at a lower brightness? Also tossing around the idea of running RED bulbs in the back instead of amber to be different.

Thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

If you buy the Triton V3's, Vleds has an inline resistor you can buy for like $20. The front LED turn signals won't be at lower brightness if you use a regular LED. And I have the RED triton V3 bulbs with switchbacks in the front with the inline resistors. I posted some pictures in this thread somewhere.

 

[dhpark88]

Before I go spending all that money, I'm going to look into this to see if the 9th gen relay is the same:

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80648

$240 for blinkers is a bit excessive, in my opinion.

$240? If you want to do it cheap, you can and get it done for like $50 (cheap chinese switchbacks and rear LED turn signal bulbs and splice resistors)

The only reason that were using the V3 triton bulbs from vleds, is because they produce a bright enough output in the rear housing to be seen in daylight (others cheaper LED's aren't bright enough to be seen in daylight) that's why were shelling out more money. Plus, they come with inline resistors that's only $20 (no splicing, or the case above- no soldiering, just plug and play). For the front, I put in some regular switchbacks in the front instead of V3's because the housing allows for better output than the rear- plus cheaper ($60 rather than $120 for V3 tritons)

 

[dhpark88]

I'm about to pull the trigger on the Vled Triton V3's for my sedan.

Rear: Amber, 7440
Front: Amber, 1157
Resistor: 1 x Pair

From reading, the bulbs have a high/low mode. I don't want switchbacks since my car already has bright LED DRL's that come on the Touring. Does anyone see anything wrong with this approach prior to placing my order?

Are any extensions needed to mount the resistors more cleanly? Has anyone proven that only two resistor packs are needed to handle all four bulbs? Any information is appreciated.

Thanks!

I can confirm that you only need two resistor packs for all four bulbs, mine are working perfectly fine. I just used double sided 3M tape I had laying around to mount them, and they're still holding good.

 

[dhpark88]

I was talking to dhpark about exterior lights a few weeks ago and he said that the rear brake lights look like they're also 7443 bulbs. I haven't had the chance to physically check the bulbs yet to confirm tho. My suggestion is to get into the trunk and check the bulbs physically before ordering just to be sure for the sizes.

Part number for the rear brake bulb is: 34906-ST5-003

which is a 7443 bulb to confirm this.

 

[dhpark88]

The Vleds has six 5 watt LEDs on the bulb. I have the 9005 version for my highbeams, and for what it is...looks nice. Plus, because these newer bulbs are higher wattage, I didn't need any DRL light decoder/module. Installed them and they didn't give off the DRL error light on my dash. :dunno:
btw, these bulbs are NEW ... just came out, they were 'out of stock' because it was on pre-order.



This is how it looks at half the voltage. When in high beam mode, its X2 brighter to my surprise (yes, I know it won't suffice as a real high beam, but its definitely noticeable to the driver in front if I flash them in the daytime or at night)

I also tried these: glass cased 20 watt CREE H8 bulbs, I was trying to use them instead of my HID kit in my fogs. They are decent, but for a 20 watt bulb, I expected a little more. Eh, trial and error. LED color was about 4500K ... was looking for about 5500K ish

 

[dhpark88]

That is far too much....buy the $30 DDM kit , have extra bulbs, get the Moromoto bulbs for 40.....

My current setup is like that. 35 watt DDM ballast with 6k morimoto bulbs. The morimoto bulbs are definitely brighter than the cheaper DDM. The morimoto 6k's color was closer to 5K. But, I'm happy with it. Plus, I have an extra set just in case.

 

[dhpark88]

Yes, those are probably the next best thing to the VLEDs V3 Tritons.

Do you have any pictures? Thanks!

I have those in the front. Build quality is junk though, I had one get shipped to me with a row of LED's not working. They sent out a replacement quick (the seller has good customer service), but now the other side is flickering and annoying the crap out of me. They are bright though.