[Jumpshot7]

My stock radio has been going on and off for the last 7 months or so and the last time it went out it didn't come back on...I have no backlight and no sound...I already tried jumping the resistor and that did not solve my problem...Because of this I have decided to go ahead and install an aftermarket underneath the stock one (replacing a honda cassette player)

I believe I have the non-premium sound because there is no logos, etc that would normally be there with premium sound and I can't find a separate amp anywhere...However I do have two harnesses going directly to the factory deck which seem peculiar for a non-premium stereo...

Anyways, I have installed the metra harness and plugged it into my new radio only to get no power to the new stereo.

I am getting proper voltage reads at the old harness and at the end of the new harness (where it plugs into the new stereo) but am still not getting power to new stereo. I have checked all fuses and they are not blown.

I have also taken an AC/DC transformer and tested the new harness in the house. I am getting 12 volts at the harness but still no power to stereo.

It has been a few years since I have replaced a stereo but I believe I'm correct in saying the stereo should turn on if it has ground and accessory power going to it. My conclusion is I bought a bad radio, but I know how rare that is at the same time...Am I missing something?

 

[DreaminAccord]

Pictures are worth 1,000 words :thmsup:

The two green OEM harnesses will remain plugged into your stock radio. They control not only the radio, but also the climate control. No, you do not have the premium sound system so you don't need to worry about that.

What make/model is your new radio? is it 1/2, single or double din? Pics of the power connector? You should just be able to tap a ground, ACC and 12V constant power and be able to power on the new stereo.

Provide us with more details and then we'll go from there...

 

[Jumpshot7]

Alright, first pic is back of stereo/climate control: The two green plugs are what controls the climate controls I believe...I have tested it with only these two plugged in and climate controls are completely functional

Second pic is the two green OEM harnesses

Third pic (blue and white harness) is the OEM harnesses going into back of stock deck. The blue one goes in the black housing on back of deck and white goes in white...

The fourth pic is the metra harness...The white side connects to blue OEM harness and black end goes directly to my new Kenwood (model KDC-152, single DIN)

--------------------------------

I don't see why both OEM harnesses would remain in stock deck because there would be no harness to attach the metro harness to...

Also, if I just tap ground, ACC and constant from somewhere on the vehicle I still won't have sound pushed to my speakers from the new stereo...

 

[Drew03Accord]

Also, if I just tap ground, ACC and constant from somewhere on the vehicle I still won't have sound pushed to my speakers from the new stereo...

At least you'd see if the radio could light up. You describe it as being totally dead. Hook up two wires directly to the battery to test. Gnd and pwr.

 

[DreaminAccord]

Yes, I'm well aware of all of the OEM harnesses lol I need to see pics of what AM radio you are installing and its supplied harness(es)

 

[Jumpshot7]

Yes, I'm well aware of all of the OEM harnesses lol I need to see pics of what AM radio you are installing and its supplied harness(es)

The last pic is the aftermarket harness that was supplied with the stereo...

it is this >>>> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00829TZ4I/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the stereo >>>>>

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KKS7XQ/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[DreaminAccord]

Does your AM harness also have the blue/red wires with butt connectors?

 

[Jumpshot7]

No, my AM harness does not have the butt connectors...but I think I may have found the problem...

I tested the new radio in the house today with an AC/DC transformer and was able to get power to the stereo...I proceeded to test it in the car and double checked my voltages...I am getting slightly less than 1V at the constant wire regardless of the position of the key...My multimeter is reading less than 1V at where the constant goes into the OEM harness (first pic - far left white-green striped wire is constant)

I went looking for a wiring diagram to see where I could check the voltage near the fuse box but couldn't find one, So I just tried to find it (second pic)

The wire next to the yellow wire going into the green harness is white-green striped so I checked for voltage there and the voltages I got seem strange to me but maybe it is normal

When I had the key out of ignition that wire would read at or above 12V and every other wire in that harness read 0V...However, when I turned the key to accessory position that wire dropped to 1.62V and the others around it read 12V...(Should that be expected or is it weird?)

Also, if anyone can guide me to a wiring diagram that shows wires from stock radio to fuse box would be great!

 

[DreaminAccord]

Hmmm that is weird. Your constant green/white should be 12-14V at all times. Maybe this is the issue to your stock radio - that in fact something never really was wrong with it, but it is the harness :dunno:

Harnesses can go bad / get destroyed over the life of the car. I don't have any wiring schematics - but hopefully someone can chime in with one

 

[WantsAPilot]

The thing about after market is does it also have digital indicators for the a/c heat, etc? Besides the resistor that burns out there's also a solder joint in the psu that needs to be fixed as well in some cases. I bet this is why your jumping the resister did not work.

Bad transmission, bad radio display, bad power seats getting stuck, leaking interior in some cases. How many disappointments can are there about the 03 or entire 7th generation Accords? Sorry to go off topic but I've had it...

 

[Jumpshot7]

Bad transmission, bad radio display, bad power seats getting stuck, leaking interior in some cases. How many disappointments can are there about the 03 or entire 7th generation Accords? Sorry to go off topic but I've had it...

Can you point me to a thread containing information on a leaky interior?? My rear passenger floor gets drenched when it rains and I have checked the weatherstripping and underneath the car, but haven't found the problem...

 

[DreaminAccord]

D'you have a sunroof, jumpshot? Check your drains - if they get clogged they will back up with water and can cause interior leaking. This is for any make with a sunroof (the risk one takes, I suppose).

WantsaPilot - I'm sorry that you've had a few cases of bad luck...but the '03 was the re-make year (which I would never buy) as they always have the most problems. I bought an '07 b/c it's the last of the generation and all of the bugs have been fixed

 

[Drew03Accord]

Also, if anyone can guide me to a wiring diagram that shows wires from stock radio to fuse box would be great!

Cut the end off the harness, the side going to the car. Use your tester to find the wires you need and splice directly into them.

 

[Jumpshot7]

D'you have a sunroof, jumpshot? Check your drains - if they get clogged they will back up with water and can cause interior leaking. This is for any make with a sunroof (the risk one takes, I suppose).

I do...I will look into that...thanks!

Cut the end off the harness, the side going to the car. Use your tester to find the wires you need and splice directly into them.

??? You mean cut the end that is going into fuse box?!?!

I went ahead and jumped the ACC wire to feed constant on the new harness just to see if it would work and sure enough it did...So I went ahead and jumped the ACC to constant on the old harness and my OEM radio works still (yay!)

Other than the need to enter the radio code everytime I turn the car on, does anyone see a safety issue with this simple solution? Or do I need to go ahead and find an actual constant to tap into?

 

[Tedmond]

might as well it. not much work to fix a constant, ground and acc.

do you need a wiring diagram?

 

[Jumpshot7]

might as well it. not much work to fix a constant, ground and acc.

do you need a wiring diagram?

I misread something...I thought it was suggested that I cut the harness off and not just the wire with the voltage drop...

Yes I do need a wiring diagram...specifically to know where the radio constant wire runs into the fuse box and what color it is and what wires it is next to

 

[Tedmond]

you wont find that amount of detail off a regular wiring diagram. you need to look for the service manual.

 

[Jumpshot7]

Alright,

found a service manual and have attached a photo of the wire in question...

It is the why/grn wire in the bottom of the picture.

It runs from the harness to J/C C554 which is located directly under the passenger's airbag...From there it apparently runs to the fuse box behind the left kick panel...I am hoping the voltage drop is from the C554 connector to the radio harness because that would be a much easier swap...

The problem is to test (or replace for that matter) the wire I need to remove the front passenger airbag...I know where the harness is that connects the airbag but don't want to mess up my SRS system just to fix this radio issue...

Is it as simple as unplugging the harness and removing the airbag or do I need to take certain precautions (like removing the battery ground cable, etc?)