[Coach Steve]

Last week I gathered all the parts and players required to do a proper 3x3 drain and fill according to the awesome directions and walkthrough found here:
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/ChangeOilFilter.html

I got all the parts including the DW-1 from the local Acura dealership and believe it or don't, they were the cheapest source for the parts - even online! (Case of DW-1 was $76.00)
Anyway, as the parts guy was gathering the various things on my list, he brought the filter to the counter and I couldn't help but start laughing at the size of this thing! Having never seen one except in a couple of pics which gave no perspective of the actual size, I assumed it to be at least the size of the oil filter. I mean, come on... it has the job of filtering out impurities from almost twice as much volume as a regular oil filter, and given how complex these transmissions are, you just naturally perceive it to be bigger than it is - MUCH bigger.

For the uninitiated, here's the filter. Look close... it's the pink thing to the right of the soda can.

Here are all the parts required (ATF DW-1 NOT PICTURED)...

...and here's the total for everything including the case of DW-1

 

[t-rd]

The filter has to match the flow rate of the fluid, and the transmission fluid doesn't flow super fast like engine oil. it is better than NO filter, which was the case on the 6th gen V6 Accord.

 

[03EX]

Interesting. That looks to be the same size as the filter on I4 cars.

 

[MikeCz]

When Honda designed this filter they incorrectly assumed (again) that years of previous AT problems had been solved. This is why they did not identify this filter as a serviceable item, believing that if the filter had enough material to block then the transmission likely had bigger problems to worry about and would soon fail in any case.

Not true of course, some bright spark forgot about fine metallic paste and the amount generated in this AT and normally generated in most transmissions. It often coats the outside of this filter and over the years hardens or thickens enough to reduce flow rate.

Now slightly reduced flow rate is not a problem in itself, the pump will - despite it's undersized reputation - build pressure to overcome reduced flow, although you don't want this filter in bypass mode for obvious reasons. However the same bright sparks forgot about an unforseen flaw with the TC and external cooler path and bypass control valving at low pump speeds.

Bottom line - replace filter every 50K miles or so, sooner if ATF is showing signs of breaking down / oxidising from heat when you preform your 1 X Drain & Fill ATF change, hopefully at an increased interval and not at the "old" Honda or dealer recommendation interval.

 

[2i2dk1ny2i3]

nice find! i've had dealerships and auto parts shops that will not install that part for some reason...i still have mine but now may finally install it on the new Transmission

:
http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/ChangeOilFilter.html

If you have the oil jet modification in the ATF filler hole you must be very careful not to damage or kink the hoses coming from the banjo fittings and the tee connection for the 2nd gear mod.

When the banjo bolt is removed you may find that the fitting will not move, this is because the metal pipe going from the fitting to the rear of the transmission is attached with another bolt which passes through a bracket welded to the metal pipe. This bolt should be removed before you remove the banjo bolt (You may not have to do this if you have the 2nd gear jet mod)


ALL of this freaks me out...let me know how it goes for you because i dont even have all those parts yet

 

[BLCKFLSH]

When we see the actual size of the filter, we are all probably a little surprised. It looks like a toy oil filter for one of those Barbie cars.

 

[Drew03Accord]

We must remember that the transmission is a sealed system. Engine oil has to contend with incoming air and carbon particles produced during combustion.

Once a 3X drain and fill has been completed, magnet cleaned and filter changed, you will find that very little accumulates on the magnet with periodic drain and fills. By replenishing the fluid and keeping the viscosity level up, you allow the transmission to work at it's most efficient level, reducing slippage and producing fewer wear particles. At 20K drain and fills, I see nothing on the magnet. In my book, nothing on the magnet means little or nothing in the filter. However, if you allow the viscosity to drop, drop and drop... you start the inefficient operation and the chain reaction which produces wear.

At this point, I am confident that I could completely REMOVE my transmission filter and have the tranny last about as long as it will with the filter in place. There are MANY similar class vehicles that have no external ATF filter and employ only a flat screen filter in the pickup, where fluid starts it's flow back into the tranny. As an example, I removed the transmission pan on a 2004 Corolla with over 180K (and possibly never had ATF serviced). When I checked the screen filter (no canister), it had caught basically nothing and it was clearly there only to filter large particles. I back flushed it with a garden hose, let it dry and reinstalled it.

 

[jimijam]

At this point, I am confident that I could completely REMOVE my transmission filter and have the tranny last about as long as it will with the filter in place.

you don't have a hair on your ass....i double-dog dare you.

 

[mc1114]

ALL of this freaks me out...let me know how it goes for you because i dont even have all those parts yet

Its a lot easier than it sounds. The only difficult part is working in a tight space. I believe there's a ground wire near there that can be loosened and moved for more room. I fill thru the dipstick tube

I have no idea what the 2nd gear mod is. All bolts have come loose for me pretty easily and its always been a straightforward process

 

[2i2dk1ny2i3]

Its a lot easier than it sounds. The only difficult part is working in a tight space. I believe there's a ground wire near there that can be loosened and moved for more room. I fill thru the dipstick tube

I have no idea what the 2nd gear mod is. All bolts have come loose for me pretty easily and its always been a straightforward process

ah i see, so that banjo bolt comes out like all other bolts?

the description made it sound like it was attached to something else and if removed improperly, could be a headache or PITA

 

[BLCKFLSH]

The banjo bolt is on the fluid line, so you do have to be careful not to bend the line when you move it out of the way, to get the filter out. I've never loosened another bolt on the line, but then I only move the line as far as I have too, to get the filter out/back in. I use the "jet kit" hole, which goes through what was the fill bolt hole, to fill the transmission. The dipstick tube is too small IMO. Seems like the fill plug would be much easier than the dipstick tube also.

 

[mc1114]

ah i see, so that banjo bolt comes out like all other bolts?

the description made it sound like it was attached to something else and if removed improperly, could be a headache or PITA

The banjo bolt that attaches the line to the housing, comes out. Then the 3 small bolts for the housing cover. I did not remove any bolts at the rear of the transmission

To fill thru the dipstick tube, I use one of those gear oil cone shaped caps attached to the bottom of a long skinny funnel, because the tube is pretty small in diameter

 

[Drew03Accord]

you don't have a hair on your ass.

Well, I do have some peach fuzz back there. Are you suggesting I shave it?

 

[quikjake]

this whole thread is pretty hilarious! lol I went to napa the other day asking about prices for their AT filter and the guys were all like "oh? you sure you can just replace that? I think you gotta take apart the entire case and it's a BIG JOB" anyways that is a puny little thingy lmfao:nuts:


BTW Pacific Honda dealership is $104 for a case of DW-1 the price of paradise

 

[Coach Steve]

Just for shits and giggles, I looked up the price of the filter via Alldata.com..... $84.00
I paid $12.43 at an Acura dlrshp!!!!



And they're listing it as being a 9+ hr. job!

 

[MikeCz]

I'd have to believe they are talking about the internal ATF pump strainer, sometimes incorrectly called an internal filter. Guess it depends at what particle size a filter becomes a strainer. Filter price is just ridiculous.

A bit like the V6 flexible intake hose, here in AU they quoted me over $200.00, I got one from China for $18.70 delivered to my door, installed it the other day - perfect.

 

[quikjake]

Just for shits and giggles, I looked up the price of the filter via Alldata.com..... $84.00
I paid $12.43 at an Acura dlrshp!!!!



And they're listing it as being a 9+ hr. job!

I'd have to believe they are talking about the internal ATF pump strainer, sometimes incorrectly called an internal filter. Guess it depends at what particle size a filter becomes a strainer. Filter price is just ridiculous.

A bit like the V6 flexible intake hose, here in AU they quoted me over $200.00, I got one from China for $18.70 delivered to my door, installed it the other day - perfect.

Hah! what a joke with all these ripoff stealership prices I'm not even going to bother asking them to look up the price of the AT filter, I think I might be able to find a cheaper source online, shipping is just hard in hawaii. It sucks $9 per bottle

 

[Coach Steve]

Well, I do have some peach fuzz back there. Are you suggesting I shave it?

You have to wonder what a male baboon is seeing when he sees a female all engorged like that and thinks to himself, "Damn! I gots to get me some of dat assss!" :dunno: :screwy:

 

[ikethegreat]

Does that o-ring go on the filter housing cap? I've replaced the filter several times but I've never touched the o-ring before.

 

[ypsibird]

Just for shits and giggles, I looked up the price of the filter via Alldata.com..... $84.00
I paid $12.43 at an Acura dlrshp!!!!



And they're listing it as being a 9+ hr. job!

I'd have to believe they are talking about the internal ATF pump strainer, sometimes incorrectly called an internal filter. Guess it depends at what particle size a filter becomes a strainer. Filter price is just ridiculous.

A bit like the V6 flexible intake hose, here in AU they quoted me over $200.00, I got one from China for $18.70 delivered to my door, installed it the other day - perfect.

Looks like Mike is right. That part #25420-P7W-003 is the internal strainer assembly (and only $62.13 @ College Hills) which is #6 in the parts diagram.

http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/transmission-automatic-cat/at-shift-fork-v6-scat

Maybe 9+ hours isn't so bad since they have to pull and disassemble the transmission?