[plunk10]

Changing the brake caliper, is it easy? straightforward? I can't seem to find any good instructions in my searches.

Background: 4.5 months ago, I changed all 4 rotors and pads. At the time, I noticed the rear left caliper boot or "dust cover" for the guide pin had a hole in it. I figured I would search for some sort of caliper hardware kit, and change within 6 months. Well, 10K miles later, that brake pad is dragging pretty bad, with the rotor getting all chewed up. So I think I'll have to either replace the hardware kit, or just change the caliper itself, if its too late.

Lastly, is it okay to replace just one caliper and pad set on one wheel, or should both sides be done at the same time? And should I buy an unloaded, semi-loaded, or loaded caliper?

 

[redhat]

Yeah calipers are relatively easy. Unloaded means it is just the caliper, semi-loaded means it might have the slider pins and some hardware, loaded means it has all of semi-loaded plus pads. Keep in mind most companies loaded, semi-loaded, and loaded might differentiate to some degree.

As far as changing them, good video by EricTheCarGuy on a Subaru. Same goes for all cars.

I'd say that if you're getting a set of pads already, might as well put the new ones on both sides as long as the other rotor is good.

 

[t-rd]

Why do you need to replace the entire caliper if just the slider pin was seized due to a torn boot? You can by just the boot and a new pin, clean out the opening for the slider pin, place new silicone paste on the pin and put it back. This is given that the piston is still good.

If you do want to replace the caliper, you can replace just the one side, no need to do both.

 

[DreaminAccord]

Why do you need to replace the entire caliper if just the slider pin was seized due to a torn boot? You can by just the boot and a new pin, clean out the opening for the slider pin, place new silicone paste on the pin and put it back.

This.

With a seized slider pin, the pin is unable to function properly, thus not allowing the piston to function properly. This is most likely the cause of the tore up rotors/pads. I would replace the slider pin and boot, greasing it as t-rd suggested, and buying a new rotor and pads for that side. Just keep a mental note of how many miles are on each side as the unaffected side will be needing replacement before the affected side.

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Just replace the pin and boot, if those are the only problems. Depending on how bad the rotor is, you could possibly have it machined slightly. I would replace the pads on both sides, however. You can't buy pads for just one side anyway.

 

[Aviography]

It may be easier said then done to "just replace the pin", sometimes the pin gets so rusted in place it is very difficult to dislodge, if the OP is not well equipped with different tools, and even torch etc., he may be better off just to get a new caliper to save the hours of cursing and scraped knuckls while trying to free up the pin. It probably won't cost more than $50 to get a new fully loaded caliper.

 

[plunk10]

After reading some bad reviews on the aftermarket calipers, I may just try getting a new caliper pin, dust boot, and grease. If I go that route, I may go with cheap brake pads, in case it doesn't work out correctly. The pads I bought 4 months ago were Honda OEM. Its probably not worth spending the coin if there's a chance this could fail again. I agree though, its probably a lot easier just to replace the pin and boot. We'll see though.

 

[Drew03Accord]

After reading some bad reviews on the aftermarket calipers, I may just try getting a new caliper pin, dust boot, and grease. If I go that route, I may go with cheap brake pads, in case it doesn't work out correctly. The pads I bought 4 months ago were Honda OEM. Its probably not worth spending the coin if there's a chance this could fail again. I agree though, its probably a lot easier just to replace the pin and boot. We'll see though.

If a slide pin is sticking, you can remove the boot, clean it off with brake cleaner then smooth off the rough spots with some steel wool. Grease her up and slap on a new boot. SHould be good.

 

[Arkainzeye]

i replaced my left rear caliper a while ago with a aftermarket (NAPA) unit. it was very easy and straight forward. The problems i had with my Oem unit was, torn boot. and sticking piston. It stuck once before and i got it to break free, but in the end it froze up again 4 months later. so thats when i decided i needed to replace the caliper and not worry about this anymore... and like i said "so far" the napa caliper has been perfect.

 

[Mr. White]

REPLACE BOTH SIDES when doing brakes. 4 braking units are the only things that can save you and your family's life when in a moving vehicle. Why skimp on the MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM of your vehicle? Brakes that provide uneven performance are dangerous and can lead to sketchy situations including spin outs. Brakes and tires should be replaced in PAIRS.
Do both your rears at the same time. A brake job is a good DIY chore and will bond you closer with your Accord.

PS: go for "loaded calipers" if you want it easy
"Semi-loaded" are great cause you can choose your own pads.

 

[Arkainzeye]

REPLACE BOTH SIDES when doing brakes. 4 braking units are the only things that can save you and your family's life when in a moving vehicle. Why skimp on the MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM of your vehicle? Brakes that provide uneven performance are dangerous and can lead to sketchy situations including spin outs. Brakes and tires should be replaced in PAIRS.
Do both your rears at the same time. A brake job is a good DIY chore and will bond you closer with your Accord.

PS: go for "loaded calipers" if you want it easy
"Semi-loaded" are great cause you can choose your own pads.

Why would you "need" to replace BOTH in a hydraulic brake system??? If it was a cable operating system i could possibly see why.. When i approached my dealer with questions about replacing the defective caliper i had, he said nothing about the "need" to replace both. and so far its been many months with No ill effects on my braking and no uneven wear on the pads. the hydraulic system provides the pressure to each caliper. if one is newer or not the same pressure is applied.

 

[cascivic]

REPLACE BOTH SIDES when doing brakes. 4 braking units are the only things that can save you and your family's life when in a moving vehicle. Why skimp on the MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM of your vehicle? Brakes that provide uneven performance are dangerous and can lead to sketchy situations including spin outs. Brakes and tires should be replaced in PAIRS.
Do both your rears at the same time. A brake job is a good DIY chore and will bond you closer with your Accord.

PS: go for "loaded calipers" if you want it easy
"Semi-loaded" are great cause you can choose your own pads.

At that point with the car being a death trap might as well buy a new car!!

Op. watch the Eric videos...it's very straightforward..pay attention to the way he "bench bleeds" .its really not a bench I guess gravity bleed. Then do a full bleed out while your at it if you haven't in 3 years (what honda calls for). Might as well if your there


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[t-rd]

There is no need to replace both at the same time, if you are saying that, then why don't you say replace all 4 since the front 2 calipers' age would be different than the rear??!? WTF?

Napa sells refurbished OEM Honda rear caliper. I have come across this and verified it because it says "Nissin" on the caliper's face.