Am I able to just swap out the 8in factory sub with another 8inch 2 ohm sub, like kicker or JBL and use the same wiring that came with the factory? thanks!
Changing subwoofer
NK1109
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Yep, as long as your model has a sub included. Pretty simple upgrade and effective in my case.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/6280130-post11.html
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/6280130-post11.html
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You added a whole seperate sub OP wants to replace oem sub/speaker.
I’m waiting on someone to answer op’s question as well. I want to know if replacing the 8 will add a bit more bass.
Some users over at CivicX did this to their 10th gen Civics and the answer was they did add more bass by adding a better free air subwoofer but there were still limitations:
- only around 200 watts is supplied to the subwoofer, varies slightly by year
- 8 inch subs don't generally produce much bass, especially at lower power
- Free air subs just under perform
G
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·Was looking in to this as well. My biggest thing isn't necessarily getting more bass, but better frequency response. Going to do some digging today to see if i can find some specs on the stock sub to see where improvements can be made.
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Any update?
Got sent the wrong sub, but now the guy at crutchfield got me scared that I may damage the factory amp.
Exact quote was "Your factory sub is a single voice coil 2.5 ohm. If you want to replace just that alone it needs to be with a new sub that's also single voice coil 2.5 ohm. We have 2 ohm subs, but that's lower than what the factory sub is, and so its possible that could cause problems with the factory amp if its not stable all the way to 2 ohms."
So not sure if I should change out the sub now.
Exact quote was "Your factory sub is a single voice coil 2.5 ohm. If you want to replace just that alone it needs to be with a new sub that's also single voice coil 2.5 ohm. We have 2 ohm subs, but that's lower than what the factory sub is, and so its possible that could cause problems with the factory amp if its not stable all the way to 2 ohms."
So not sure if I should change out the sub now.
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According to the Honda documentation, the sub should test out at 2 ohms... not 2.5.
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Where did you find this? I might be able to answer a question on my own thread with this resource.
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I tested the ohm load on the sub in my 18 touring today and it was showing about 2.4 ohms.
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For reference, I have the touring. I just replaced all the speakers in my car over the weekend which worked out well. I decided to not worry about the back deck tweeters. I also tried to replace the factory subwoofer with the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2. It required some modifications to the metal closest to the passenger seat for it to actually fit. I also removed the plastic cover, but in the end, the holes did not line up so that I could just drop the sub in and play.
I had read that I would need to wire it to 4 ohms as it's a 2 ohm Duel voice coil but that wiring it that way should work. I'm going to need to get a mounting bracket made so that the subwoofer can drop in and line in to the already drilled wholes in the back decking.
While I had the back trunk lid off, I put in a bunch of sound deadening material and it has helped with the rattle quite a bit, but I could STILL hear it a tiny bit. Looks like I'll put more in the next time I'm in there.
I had read that I would need to wire it to 4 ohms as it's a 2 ohm Duel voice coil but that wiring it that way should work. I'm going to need to get a mounting bracket made so that the subwoofer can drop in and line in to the already drilled wholes in the back decking.
While I had the back trunk lid off, I put in a bunch of sound deadening material and it has helped with the rattle quite a bit, but I could STILL hear it a tiny bit. Looks like I'll put more in the next time I'm in there.
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So I finished my install today. I ended up returning the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 and got the Kicker 44CWCD84 as that’s a 4 ohm duel voice coil that I was able to wire to 2 ohm to match the Touring Amp. With the previous modifications I made to some of the metal I was able to just drop in the Kicker Subwoofer as well. I ended up getting a right angle attachment for my impact driver so that I could drill in new holes to put in the subwoofer. Before I dropped in the subwoofer, I put some foam in between the metal deck to the sub and then drilled / screwed the Subwoofer in. I just wired it using the red and black wires that were connected to the factory subwoofer and then wired the subwoofer to 2 ohm based on the instructions included with the sub. I’m very happy with the sound of it, and for now, fine with not having an amp provide it additional power.
From the pictures which I took about half way through, I put a boat load of sound deading material on the deck. I also put the some additional foam on top of the subwoofer so that it buffer it from the rear deck lid.
Hope this helps for anyone thinking about doing the same thing.
From the pictures which I took about half way through, I put a boat load of sound deading material on the deck. I also put the some additional foam on top of the subwoofer so that it buffer it from the rear deck lid.
Hope this helps for anyone thinking about doing the same thing.
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Very nice, brbruce! I have the 2.0 Touring too and have replaced the front speakers with JBL components. Will be doing the rears plus the subwoofer in a week or two. Thanks to your post I researched further the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 which I have on hand and found that it's either 1 ohm in parallel or 4 in series. Also read that both coils need to be wired, thinking initially I could just wire one coil to match the stock amp's 2 ohms (Pioneer manual says no). So, I'll probably order the same Kicker sub you installed.
Good to know you found the stock amp adequate for the Kicker sub. BTW, just having installed the JBL front 6.5s and tweeters, the biggest improvement was in the high notes from the JBL tweeters - clearer and sharper than the stocks. Did you replace the front tweeters?
Good to know you found the stock amp adequate for the Kicker sub. BTW, just having installed the JBL front 6.5s and tweeters, the biggest improvement was in the high notes from the JBL tweeters - clearer and sharper than the stocks. Did you replace the front tweeters?
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Thank you for the nice info!
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I did. I would agree, much improved highs after swapping those out. I also didn’t use the included crossovers, as the amp is already filtering the range at each of the speakers. One last thing I wanted to note. Since I wired the Subwoofer directly from the Subwoofer wiring, I didn’t need to disable the ANC behind the glovebox, and I still think it sounds great. I’m very happy with the sound.
In regards to the rattle, I still heard some on occasion depending on the notes on the subwoofer. I stuffed some old clean socks (I saw this recommended on another thread) up in those gaps and that officially killed the rattle. Again, hope this information will help others, as I couldn’t find much in one place that specified this, and did a lot of research on the Civic forums as their systems for the touring are pretty similar.
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Would you share this thread? I replaced the sub and the rattle is driving me nuts. I tried stuffing rags here and there
benromana and brbruce thank you for providing your thoughts on the front speaker upgrades; can you provide the speaker model you decided to install? did you do install yourself?
Did you notice if the audio was more fuller with the front speaker upgrade?
Also, has anyone measured how much wattage is going to each speaker?
Did you notice if the audio was more fuller with the front speaker upgrade?
Also, has anyone measured how much wattage is going to each speaker?
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