[Alijah913]

Tools needed:
•Jack along with jack stands
•Clear tubing or Aquarium tubing
•Funnel
•Drain Pan
•3/8ths Ratchet
•17mm Socket
•Your choice of MTF (Manual Transmission Fluid)
•Crush Washers for both the Check/Fill Plug and Drain Plug

I used the Honda OEM fluid. Each quart cost me $7.43 USD. The crush washers were less than $2.00 USD each.

Since I had access to under my vehicle at my job this was a lot easier. First things first:

1. Make sure you have long enough tubing to reach the fill plug. A rough estimate of maybe 3ft-5ft of that should be good.

2. Locate the Check/Fill Plug and once located remove with a 17mm socket. If you'd like dip your finger in there to see what the fluid looks like.

3. Analyze the plug & finger to see if it's dirty and that the fluid needs to be replaced. (Mine had not been done since the last owner did it @ 60k )

4. Locate the Drain Plug and use the bare 3/8ths ratchet to break loose the plug. I had to use a breaker bar/cheater bar. It will hit the frame by the way so have a catch pan ready.

This is what mine looked like

5. As the fluid is draining open up your MTF of choice and replace both crush washer for the Fill Plug and Drain Plug.

6. Once done draining replace the Drain Plug back in its home nice and securely. Sorry idk the torque specs. Feed the clear tubing into the Fill plug hole securely so that it doesn't come out as your filling it and wasting your fluid. Pour 2 qts of your MTF through the funnel connected to the tubing. Honda OEM fluid was pretty much a clear watery substance in my case.

7. Once done filling, place your finger back in the Fill plug hole and there should be fluid on your finger, tighten the Fill plug back in its home. Clean up the area the fluid drained out of, lower your vehicle. (Optional: Get in your car and cycle through all the gears with engine not running 2-3 times whatever makes you comfortable)

I used warranty seal on my plugs just cause.

8. Take it out for a drive going through all the gears bring it back home jack it up check for leaks, if everything is A Ok, give yourself a pat on the back cause you probably saved your well over a $100+.

Happy Driving [emoji6]


2006 Honda Accord 2.4L 5SPD MT 150k

 

[derass]

I jack up the entire vehicle when changing transmission or differential (my old 240SX) fluid. I lift the front and rear axles, then measure the "ride height" as per the FSM. This way the car is level and therefore fluid levels are accurate when filling. This isn't an issue when working in a garage on a hoist.

Also, a suction gun makes these fluid changes so much easier. $20 well spent. Waiting for oil to flow down a hose while hunched over the engine bay is awful. I'll never work that way again.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Just did this on a Sonata. The front end should be on the ground, or level with the rear when checking and filling. Otherwise you probably overfilled it. Easy enough to open fill plug on flat and let it drain out.

Used this extra thick gear lube. I think it would work in the Accords too. Tranny feels much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8RYMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[chris918]

Used this extra thick gear lube. I think it would work in the Accords too. Tranny feels much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8RYMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

lol

 

[WDHewson]

That Sta-Lube is a GL-4 Hypoid meant for hypoid gears found in classic old differentials of RWD cars.

It won't hurt the steel helical gears in the Accord's box, but it may contain very active sulfur additives that quickly eat any copper based alloys such as bronze.

Sorry to be alarming, but that is a risky misapplication.

 

[Drew03Accord]

That Sta-Lube is a GL-4 Hypoid meant for hypoid gears found in classic old differentials of RWD cars.

It won't hurt the steel helical gears in the Accord's box, but it may contain very active sulfur additives that quickly eat any copper based alloys such as bronze.

Sorry to be alarming, but that is a risky misapplication.

No... its safe for yellow metals, as is any GL-4. That's exactly why I went with it. I had put in some Pennzoil synchromesh, didn't like it, drained it out and put in this stuff. It did wonders for the shift feel.

 

[200366HFP]

Just did this on a Sonata. The front end should be on the ground, or level with the rear when checking and filling. Otherwise you probably overfilled it. Easy enough to open fill plug on flat and let it drain out.

Used this extra thick gear lube. I think it would work in the Accords too. Tranny feels much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8RYMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Drew, please tell me you didn't put 85w-90 gear lube in your MT transmission......

To anyone reading this, DO NOT USE GEAR LUBE IN YOUR MANUAL TRANSMISSION.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Drew, please tell me you didn't put 85w-90 gear lube in your MT transmission.......

Yeah, I did... The Sonata is spec'd for GL4 and that is what I used.

 

[200366HFP]

Yeah, I did... The Sonata is spec'd for GL4 and that is what I used.

I suppose being in Hotlanta, that molasses won't have much effect on shifting. I'll stick to the AmsOil or GM Synchromesh 0w-30 MT fluid, as should all other Honda manual transmissions.

 

[Drew03Accord]

I suppose being in Hotlanta, that molasses won't have much effect on shifting. I'll stick to the AmsOil or GM Synchromesh 0w-30 MT fluid, as should all other Honda manual transmissions.

Not questioning your logic, but I'll just discuss how it feels. The GL4 that I drained out was 75W90, but it was also due for a change, so who knows the viscosity of old oil. I've run with the thicker fluid for a few weeks now (It describes itself as having a low pour point). I've felt no notchiness or difficulty shifting on cold mornings, at or near freezing. What I have felt, is the transmission seems to feel less trashier and when coasting or on the highway, there is a lot less vibration and overall smoother feel. It really transformed the feel of the driveline where the tranny is concerned. ...Drew...

 

[CGumina]

Used this extra thick gear lube. I think it would work in the Accords too. Tranny feels much better!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8RYMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What train of thought led you to using 85w-90 weight gear oil in a 4 cylinder Honda transmission?

 

[Soler25]

When I replaced mine, I had it up on a lift so it was level. Took about 2.1 quarts, so filling with just 2 might be a little low.

 

[ypsibird]

I'll stick to the AmsOil or GM Synchromesh 0w-30 MT fluid, as should all other Honda manual transmissions.

Do you have some information that the GM fluid is 0w-30 since that's the 1st I've seen that information?

 

[Drew03Accord]

What train of thought led you to using 85w-90 weight gear oil in a 4 cylinder Honda transmission?

Do you have some information that the GM fluid is 0w-30 since that's the 1st I've seen that information?

GM Synchromesh oil weight seems to be difficult to pin down. Pennzoil synchromesh, which should be similar, is 75W85 or 75W90. I'm vague on this, because the manufacturers are vague. Many Accord owners use GM Synchromesh, so I didn't see it as a far stretch to use the Sta Lube, although it being thicker is a consideration. The thickness didn't affect shift ability in the Hyundai, but it sure quieted down the transmission.

 

[ypsibird]

Now, I didn't mean to suggest that 200366HFP was wrong, just that I've never seen anything really exact before. He's probably at least pretty close. Penzoil Synchromesh is approximately 5W30 if this information is correct:

"A post on the message board at Machinery Lubrication Magazine found Synchromesh to consist of a 5W30 non-detergent oil with a friction modifer and an EP (extreme pressure) additive. It is made under contract for General Motors by Pennzoil (APC 3378) or by Texaco (Code 1874 MTX Fluid)."

Stealth 316 - Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid

The product #s in the article seem to indicate the Penzoil product is equivalent to the GM(Delco) Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid.

 

[03EX]

6. Once done draining replace the Drain Plug back in its home nice and securely. Sorry idk the torque specs.

Factory torque specs are 33 lb-ft for the fill plug and 29 lb-ft for the drain plug.

 

[200366HFP]

Do you have some information that the GM fluid is 0w-30 since that's the 1st I've seen that information?

I do not. I do know the AmsOil is 0w30, but like you said in another post, the GM must be pretty close. I myself have not used it, I just know a lot of people do.

 

[davidg4781]

I'm looking to do this soon. I've looked online and watched YouTube videos, but I can't seem to find any answers to this.

Would it be possible to work in this order (shortened, so don't follow this exactly)
Raise the front of the car
Drain the fluid
Replace the drain plug
Lower the car
Use a long tube to fill using the fill hole
Replace fill bolt from the top, using a decent length torque wrench (I think 1.5 ft?)

If not, I don't think I'll do it myself. I want to make sure it's full, but I don't think I can get the car level. I'll need to purchase 2 more jack stands. But the ground is a bit soft, unless I bring it fully into the garage. When I did the oil, I brought just the nose in.

I am thinking about changing fluids. My shifts don't seem solid sometimes, and sometimes it won't go in to gear without waiting for the engine RPMs to drop, if they're above 4k. I'm thinking the GM Synchromesh OR AMSOIL Synchromesh. Hopefully it's not the clutch going out.

 

[200366HFP]

I'm looking to do this soon. I've looked online and watched YouTube videos, but I can't seem to find any answers to this.

Would it be possible to work in this order (shortened, so don't follow this exactly)
Raise the front of the car
Drain the fluid
Replace the drain plug
Lower the car
Use a long tube to fill using the fill hole
Replace fill bolt from the top, using a decent length torque wrench (I think 1.5 ft?)

If not, I don't think I'll do it myself. I want to make sure it's full, but I don't think I can get the car level. I'll need to purchase 2 more jack stands. But the ground is a bit soft, unless I bring it fully into the garage. When I did the oil, I brought just the nose in.

I am thinking about changing fluids. My shifts don't seem solid sometimes, and sometimes it won't go in to gear without waiting for the engine RPMs to drop, if they're above 4k. I'm thinking the GM Synchromesh OR AMSOIL Synchromesh. Hopefully it's not the clutch going out.

Step 1 - Make sure you can take out the FILL bolt BEFORE removing the drain bolt.

Otherwise you can do what you said.

As for the shifting, might be that your clutch fluid needs to be changed. It is brake fluid, and should be every 3-4 years anyway.

 

[derass]

On a level surface, like the concrete pad of a garage, measure the front and rear ride height of the car. Use a tape measure to find the distance from the ground to the wheel arch, at the center of the wheel. For my 4-cyl sedan with 225/45R18 tires those numbers are 28" F & 27.5" R.

Then jack the car up onto 4 jack stands ie. all 4 tires off the ground. Then, with the car on jack stands, measure the distance from ground to fender arch again, and adjust the jack stands as necessary to level the car. You want to replicate the front-to-rear height difference on the jack stands, as it is when the car is on the ground. So in my case, 0.5".

Now, the car is off the ground so that you can work on it, AND it is level so that you can use the fill plug of the transmission accurately.

I use a suction gun to fill transmissions and differentials, it's much faster. Being hunched over an engine bay, slowly pouring fluid through a funnel and small hose all while holding everything steady, was a huge pain in the ass.