[Artes]

I must have a hairline crack around the filler area as fluid will slowly build and dry around the radiator lip at the top. I replaced the radiator cap with an OEM cap to rule this piece out. The car has 120k miles.

The OEM Denso radiator is $250 at Bernadi versus an aftermarket Denso at rockauto for $60. Is the build quality that different where I should not consider an aftermarket replacement?

Thanks for the advice.

 

[demonics12]

I've had good luck with replacement radiators on a variety of cars, I'd go with the Denso from RockAuto.

 

[drowned12]

For the price and ease of repalcement, might as well give aftermarket a shot. Denso should also be a solid brand by their reputation.

 

[salcuta]

Never had issues with aftermarket radiators.

Go aftermarket.

 

[CharlieHustle]

Afternerket radiators have become more reliable than in the past. I would likely just throw on an aftermarket piece for an older Accord. Spending the additional $190 wont do a better job keeping your car running cool.

 

[Drew03Accord]

I must have a hairline crack around the filler area as fluid will slowly build and dry around the radiator lip at the top. I replaced the radiator cap with an OEM cap to rule this piece out.

I know you might balk at this, but JB weld would fix that permanently. Just drain it, leaving the cap off, wire brush the crack, then spray it down with brake cleaner to clean it. Mix up JB weld and apply, let dry overnight. If it's leaking where the around the plastic top where it meets the metal body, you can use channel locks to go around it and tighten up the crimps.

Try it, nothing to lose.

...Drew...

 

[RickBlaine]

I know you might balk at this, but JB weld would fix that permanently. Just drain it, leaving the cap off, wire brush the crack, then spray it down with brake cleaner to clean it. Mix up JB weld and apply, let dry overnight. If it's leaking where the around the plastic top where it meets the metal body, you can use channel locks to go around it and tighten up the crimps.

Try it, nothing to lose.

...Drew...

Once again......proof that Drew is:

 

[CharlieHustle]

I know you might balk at this, but JB weld would fix that permanently. Just drain it, leaving the cap off, wire brush the crack, then spray it down with brake cleaner to clean it. Mix up JB weld and apply, let dry overnight. If it's leaking where the around the plastic top where it meets the metal body, you can use channel locks to go around it and tighten up the crimps.

Try it, nothing to lose.

...Drew...

He's right, you have nothing to lose. It's worth a shot, but i'm not going to say it's a permanent fix. Hot coolant will break up the jb weld bond over time. Not to mention, a hairline crack would be really hard to seal back together.

I must have a hairline crack around the filler area as fluid will slowly build and dry around the radiator lip at the top. I replaced the radiator cap with an OEM cap to rule this piece out. The car has 120k miles.

Wait, aside from this discovery of fluid, is your car experiencing a loss of coolant or overheating at all?

 

[Drew03Accord]

Hot coolant will break up the jb weld bond over time. Not to mention, a hairline crack would be really hard to seal back together.

I must disagree. I've used it for this very purpose before and it was a permanent fix. It covers and seals the crack, so it's the perfect application for it. What's important is cleaning the area before application. It won't bond properly if there is coolant residue.

 

[jimijam]

there is no way in hell i would pay to get another oem rad that will last at least 8 years and 120k miles.

 

[CharlieHustle]

I must disagree. I've used it for this very purpose before and it was a permanent fix. It covers and seals the crack, so it's the perfect application for it. What's important is cleaning the area before application. It won't bond properly if there is coolant residue.

A hairline crack is very thin and leaves little space to apply an adhesive between the split halves. Do you mix the jb weld and just apply it over the cracked region? Or do you force the crack open to get the adhesive between the split?

When you say permanent fix, does this mean you're using the radiator to this day in your own personal car?

 

[chris918]

Get a Denso from a parts store. It's the same thing as OEM and much cheaper.

 

[Drew03Accord]

I no longer have the car, but it held for many years, till I sold it. My intention was to use it temporarily but it never leaked again. The key is surface prep. tLike I said you drain the radiator, then wire brush the area... which roughens the surface so it can adhere. You then clean the area with brake cleaner, so all coolant residue is gone and apply.

This guy used Loctite expoy and sand paper...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Trxlk9P6g

 

[CharlieHustle]

I no longer have the car, but it held for many years, till I sold it. My intention was to use it temporarily but it never leaked again. The key is surface prep. tLike I said you drain the radiator, then wire brush the area... which roughens the surface so it can adhere. You then clean the area with brake cleaner, so all coolant residue is gone and apply.

This guy used Loctite expoy and sand paper...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Trxlk9P6g

I agree with you on surface prep being important when using JB weld. A clean surface free of contaminants is always preferred. I dont doubt the repair worked, but I'd only rely on this as a temporary fix.

 

[AndyCapp]

Been losing coolant gradually, woke up to an empty reservoir bottle and level was low in radiator. No puddle underneath car, but traces of coolant in parts around radiator. I've been keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, and the needle has been at the right spot. Besides replacing the radiator (been told to stay away from leak sealants), someone recommended a new thermostat as well.

Opinions, suggestions? As always, thanks in advance!

 

[CharlieHustle]

Been losing coolant gradually, woke up to an empty reservoir bottle and level was low in radiator. No puddle underneath car, but traces of coolant in parts around radiator. I've been keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, and the needle has been at the right spot. Besides replacing the radiator (been told to stay away from leak sealants), someone recommended a new thermostat as well.

Opinions, suggestions? As always, thanks in advance!

A thermostat failure wouldn't typically cause coolant loss.
Where exactly did you find traces of coolant around the radiator? Was it a white spray residue on surrounding parts of the hood and engine bay? Or wet colored fluid around the body of the radiator? If along the top portion where the aluminum body and plastic cap (Green Arrows), you might have a radiator cap failing to seal. Other than that, the radiator is probably beginning to crack and leak.

 

[qman]

I'd do a plastic weld first. I've plastic welded tons of body parts and the welds hold great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amLsakq22Ls

I actually did this on a battery. I had put a brand new battery in my daughter's car and then she rear-ended someone. The battery wasn't held down securely and it flew forward into a headlight adjustment bolt which put a hole in the battery. I wouldn't recommend anyone do it as I was puckered up the entire time.

 

[AndyCapp]

A thermostat failure wouldn't typically cause coolant loss.
Where exactly did you find traces of coolant around the radiator? Was it a white spray residue on surrounding parts of the hood and engine bay? Or wet colored fluid around the body of the radiator? If along the top portion where the aluminum body and plastic cap (Green Arrows), you might have a radiator cap failing to seal. Other than that, the radiator is probably beginning to crack and leak.

I see coolant on the plastic shielding underneath radiator, but what baffles me is that it seems to leak while I'm driving. I've filled the bottle at night and inspected for leaks underneath car the following morning. None. I'm assuming the heat plays a role.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Not sure why you're baffled that it leaks when you drive, since you know the coolant becomes pressurized.

A thermostat won't do squat for a leak. You need to find where the leak is first. You don't want to replace a radiator to find out it's a hose. You can do that by borrowing a pressure tester and pumping up the pressure to whatever max PSI is stamped on your radiator cap. You then get under the car and wait. Once you can verify where the actual leak is, you either fix it or replace it.

Pressure tester...

Don't ever use stop leak because it can clog the heater core, which requires dash removal to replace.

 

[AndyCapp]

Not sure why you're baffled that it leaks when you drive, since you know the coolant becomes pressurized.

A thermostat won't do squat for a leak. You need to find where the leak is first. You don't want to replace a radiator to find out it's a hose. You can do that by borrowing a pressure tester and pumping up the pressure to whatever max PSI is stamped on your radiator cap. You then get under the car and wait. Once you can verify where the actual leak is, you either fix it or replace it.

Don't ever use stop leak because it can clog the heater core, which requires dash removal to replace.

Thanks Drew, I'm going to look for that pressure tester. I will only replace the thermostat if I do end up getting a new radiator. First things first....