[Bimmer74]

You would just need a overseas source to acquire the needed factory parts from Honda.

These kinds of parts tend to be eye-wateringly expensive if bought new from the OEM.

Better: Find an overseas scrapyard, like Redline is for Miatas...

I'm also thinking the best way to do this is to use a simple spacer in the front which will move the seat forward due to the angle at the front of the track. Then the rear spacer block could handle the resulting offset.

That makes sense to me... The angle of the front bolts is roughly 30°, so for an inch or two of rise you'd only lose a half-inch or inch of legroom (which wouldn't be missed).

I'm curious if it'll really be possible to fudge 1/2" laterally at the rear bolts...

 

[Accord_Mike]

These kinds of parts tend to be eye-wateringly expensive if bought new from the OEM.

Better: Find an overseas scrapyard, like Redline is for Miatas...

First, we would have to find out if those Chinese 11th gen Accords (Inspire) have the height adjustment for the passenger seat. Maybe they’re like the U.S. Accords and don’t have it either.

That makes sense to me... The angle of the front bolts is roughly 30°, so for an inch or two of rise you'd only lose a half-inch or inch of legroom (which wouldn't be missed).

I'm curious if it'll really be possible to fudge 1/2" laterally at the rear bolts...

I’d be worried about crash protection with that much of a lateral difference. I wonder if there‘s a way to raise the seat cushion at the seat frame to bottom cushion attachment point? You know like where the seat rails attach to the bottom of the seat?

That way, you wouldn’t even need to touch floorboard mounting attachment points possibly stripping the threads from the threaded holes in the floorboard.

 

[Bimmer74]

First, we would have to find out if those Chinese 11th gen Accords (Inspire) have the height adjustment for the passenger seat.

Isn't the Accord sold in Japan? (Didn't I see somebody posting a picture of a RHD interior?)

Then the seat on the right is the driver's, and it's sure to have a height adjustment...

 

[Accord_Mike]

Isn't the Accord sold in Japan? (Didn't I see somebody posting a picture of a RHD interior?)

Then the seat on the right is the driver's, and it's sure to have a height adjustment...

I think right now just having 1”-1.5” spacers under the seat frame in the back would work. These are the spacers I’m thinking about getting along the required 10.9 grade bolts.

1 of 1
Picture 1 of 1

 

[Miker]

are those aluminum spacers or chromed steel?

Aluminum may cause creep and crush problems after you tighten the bolts.

 

[Accord_Mike]

are those aluminum spacers or chromed steel?

Aluminum may cause creep and crush problems after you tighten the bolts.

They’re T-6061 aluminum.

 

[Miker]

OK this is used for aircraft fittings so it answers that.

Any idea if they are T-6061-T6 temper? probably but curious.

 

[Accord_Mike]

OK this is used for aircraft fittings so it answers that. Any idea if they are T-6061-T6 temper? probably but curious.

I don’t know. Haven’t pulled the trigger yet.



Aluminum Spacer 1" OD x 1/2" ID x Choose Your Length, Round Spacer Unthreaded Standoff Bushing Plain Finish, Fits Screws Bolts 1/2" or M12 by Metal Spacers Online (1-1/2" Length, 5 Pack)

Visit the MetalSpacersOnline.com Store
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Outside diameter: 1"/25.4mm

• Inside diameter: 1/2"/13mm (fits 1/2" or M12 bolts)
• Length: Varies-Choose Length
• Shape: Round
• Material Type: T-6061 Aluminum with tumbled aluminum finish

 

[Miker]

I believe alloy wheels are made of the 6061 Al but I personally would want to know the temper of the aluminum you are contemplating purchasing or if it is annealed. I did a cursory look at the page you posted and it doesn't explicitly state it's temper.
This T-6061 Al alloy is AlSiMgCu.

I would not want this part to be so soft it deforms or hardened to a level where it may be brittle.

 

[Bimmer74]

I personally would want to know the temper of the aluminum...

I would not want this part to be so soft it deforms or hardened to a level where it may be brittle.

I think it's a non-issue... Those 10.9 bolts aren't going anywhere, even in a big crash.


In the worst case scenario, one of those spacer/sleeves cracks and splits and the seat wobbles.

For that reason, I'm thinking blocks would be better, so that there's uniform contact surface between the bottom of the seat rails and the floor pan... And I'm still thinking of simply making them out of some maple that I have lying around.

 

[Miker]

I think it's a non-issue... Those 10.9 bolts aren't going anywhere, even in a big crash.


In the worst case scenario, one of those spacer/sleeves cracks and splits and the seat wobbles.

For that reason, I'm thinking blocks would be better, so that there's uniform contact surface between the bottom of the seat rails and the floor pan... And I'm still thinking of simply making them out of some maple that I have lying around.

100% agree on the blocks

 

[NJAkkord]

not one person suggested the obvious... get a taller wife. sarcasm of course. as for the low seat position, I personally wouldn't mess with the geometry or attachment of the frame to the body. most proposed solutions involve raising the frame from the body which then introduces new stress/shear limits and locations. besides, get your short wife hurt in an accident where you intentionally changed the vehicle and watch as Honda says 'not our problem' and your insurance says 'not ours either'. of course, as i often end my posts, it's your car, you do what you want. good luck folks and stay safe.

 

[PHCH]

I put some money on Honda offering the additional height adjustment in a year or 2 on at least Touring models.

 

[NJAkkord]

I put some money on Honda offering the additional height adjustment in a year or 2 on at least Touring models.

doubtful and wish we could bet on this one. the low seat position was a common complaint for the 10th gen, which is essentially similar in seat heights/functions. nothing was ever proposed for the 10th gen, i'd bet there won't be any for any trim on the 11th.

 

[PHCH]

Good points. I bet the top trim new Camry will have it. If sales slow due to feature content they will change

 

[Bimmer74]

not one person suggested the obvious... get a taller wife.

Mine is 5'9", and she just doesn't like climbing in and out of the car...

I'm not at all worried about compromising the crash safety of the seat. Those bolts and blocks aren't going to fail — remember, they're merely holding the 50lbs of the seat, not the passenger (who is restrained by the seatbelt, which bolts to the body of the car separately.

 

[2manyCars]

These kinds of parts tend to be eye-wateringly expensive if bought new from the OEM.

Better: Find an overseas scrapyard, like Redline is for Miatas...




That makes sense to me... The angle of the front bolts is roughly 30°, so for an inch or two of rise you'd only lose a half-inch or inch of legroom (which wouldn't be missed).

I'm curious if it'll really be possible to fudge 1/2" laterally at the rear bolts...

No fudging the bolts. The rear spacer block would be drilled for a bolt into current body location and a separate hole drilled and tapped to accept the bolt from the seat track.

 

[Bimmer74]

The rear spacer block would be drilled for a bolt into current body location and a separate hole drilled and tapped to accept the bolt from the seat track.

Aha... That makes sense.

If you'll do a run of these, then I'll happily pay you $60 or whatever that website wanted (and I bet you'll have a bunch of other takers here).

 

[2manyCars]

Pulled out the seat bolts (left in the picture below). They are 10mm, 1.25 mm pitch (much easier to find than 11 or 12mm seat belt bolts). Head depth is about 6.5mm. Thread length is the same front and rear - 28mm with about 23mm of threads. There is about 8mm more depth clearance available inside the body (i.e. the bolt could be up to 36mm). Also, only about 15mm of threads are needed. They were not difficult to remove but I still recommend getting the proper TP50 torx plus bit. There was no thread locker.

I found some 10mm automotive flange bolts in my bolt bin to test the track clearance. I installed the short flange bolt (center in the picture below) in the track and it did clear the head with full rear travel but just barely. The head thickness of that bolt is just under 9mm and the diameter is 21mm (stock is 18mm). It fit properly and is probably stronger than stock (and definitely stronger than the sheet metal body). I did have the hex flats aligned with the sides of the track for the narrowest profile. I don't think there would be enough clearance with the flats perpendicular to the track. The long bolt below (right in the picture below) is 70mm shaft length and would allow for a 1.5" thick spacer block if bolted straight through. You should be able to find whatever length is desired for around $2 each.
Hope that helps anyone wanting to DIY.

 

[Accord_Mike]

These seat spacers made by Seat Jackers look to be very good quality. Much thicker on the sides than the silver ones posted above and they’re made out of the same T-6061 aluminum material and come powder coated in black. These might be the ones to get.