[TMVB]

I've got a 10" JL sub in a sealed box in the trunk for now and always knew it would be a temporary solution. Am researching more permanent mounting solutions and wanted to get some feedback on what you all think of these options. Really want to gain back my trunk space.

I really like the idea of mounting it below the rear deck (where the EX-L factory sub would be). Leave it in a custom sealed box. Two options here: One - have it fire up into he cabin. Would have to cut a hole in the rear deck for that and maybe buy the EX-L package tray so that I get the center speaker grill. Second option put in the same location but have it down fire into the trunk. No need to cut a hole in my rear deck for this option.

I suppose another option would be to build a fiberglass box to but in the rear corner of the trunk. But I'd prefer to explore either of the above options before resorting to this.

Here are some pictures from an audio shop's solution. Different car, different sub, but same idea. They have it firing up into the cabin, but this car also has the factory sub opening.

TL/DR: Good idea to mount the sub in a sealed box, mounted under the deck, and having it either firing up into the cabin or down into the trunk?

Thanks!
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Again - not my pictures - provided as an example of what I'm thinking about.

 

[keep_hope_alive]

i like having my Hertz ML3000 in a sealed box firing into the rear passenger corner but I dislike having the box in my trunk. My next step is to fiberglass an enclosure into the trunk corner (driver's side for me). i simply want more cargo space with the same SQ.

Had I not put my amp under the rear deck, I would have done an enclosure like you have pictured above. I like the idea of a rear deck sub that is in a sealed enclosure.

 

[TMVB]

i like having my Hertz ML3000 in a sealed box firing into the rear passenger corner but I dislike having the box in my trunk. My next step is to fiberglass an enclosure into the trunk corner (driver's side for me). i simply want more cargo space with the same SQ.

Had I not put my amp under the rear deck, I would have done an enclosure like you have pictured above. I like the idea of a rear deck sub that is in a sealed enclosure.

I was hoping you were going to chime in

I'm reading what I can find on diyma - lots of noise. Hard to find the signal if you get my meaning.

Down firing vs firing into the cabin?

How far below the deck to position the cone (read 1/2 the diameter so for a 10" sub, needs to be 5" below the deck. No idea if this is important - the factory is mounted ABOVE the deck.

I have my amp and LOC under the deck now, but I think I'll look for a new location if I decide to mount the sub up there. Really want all of my trunk back so getting it up and out of the way is really resonating with me (pun intended).

So any thoughts about down firing vs up? Exactly how low to position the cone relative to the deck?

 

[Lashlee]

Mine is in the spare, with the sub firing straight up. I raised the floor up 3/4" to make the trim panel and sub grill. I would be willing to try a side firing, but my Hybrid didn't include a spare to begin with so it was a no brainer to build the box in the well.

 

[TMVB]

Mine is in the spare, with the sub firing straight up. I raised the floor up 3/4" to make the trim panel and sub grill. I would be willing to try a side firing, but my Hybrid didn't include a spare to begin with so it was a no brainer to build the box in the well.

Not really an option for me.

 

[Lashlee]

You could always build the box using the spare so you don't loose it.

 

[TMVB]

Reading as much as I can. Finding lots of opinions that state that a corner loaded sub will do better than one mounted in the rear deck. Corner loaded would certainly be easier but would still take up useful trunk space.

@keep_hope_alive any thoughts on this?

 

[Mike M]

I like having the sub firing into the truck (like mounted n the corner) vs firing through the rear deck. Do you have a sedan or coupe?

 

[TMVB]

I like having the sub firing into the truck (like mounted n the corner) vs firing through the rear deck. Do you have a sedan or coupe?

6MT Sport Sedan

 

[Mike M]

If your sub is a shallow mount, you could build a thin wedge shaped box (similar to old truck boxes) that could fit up against the back seat. If the sub is shallow enough, you might only lose about 6" of floor space, and that would leave the whole opening for wound to pass through. Plus you'd have the wave formation benefit of it firing to the rear of the trunk.

Another important question is what kind of music do you listen to, and what kind of sound do you want (tight and accurate (for rick and jazz, booming for EDM and hip hop, etc)?

 

[TMVB]

If your sub is a shallow mount, you could build a thin wedge shaped box (similar to old truck boxes) that could fit up against the back seat. If the sub is shallow enough, you might only lose about 6" of floor space, and that would leave the whole opening for wound to pass through. Plus you'd have the wave formation benefit of it firing to the rear of the trunk.

Another important question is what kind of music do you listen to, and what kind of sound do you want (tight and accurate (for rick and jazz, booming for EDM and hip hop, etc)?

I'll take rick and jazz for $200, Alex.

I've got a JL 10W3v3-2 sub. Takes a 0.625 cuft sealed enclosure. Mounting depth is almost 6". Don't think that would be considered "shallow".

So from what you're saying there is a "wave formation benefit" from having a sub fire to the rear as opposed to firing directly into the cabin? I've read that it's preferable to fire to the rear rather than towards the cabin, but am having trouble finding comparisons of firing to the rear vs firing directly INTO the cabin (like the factory sub does).

 

[keep_hope_alive]

"wave development" shouldn't be confused with phase interference.

rear corner wins over the rear deck. rear corner wins over tight behind the rear seat.

up vs. down in the rear deck doesn't matter (just invert phase). free area of the opening matters - cut the metal out and reinforce the opening.


if you ever want my input on something, just shoot me a PM. i also happily share my number to chat about ideas and concepts.

 

[keep_hope_alive]

Q

So from what you're saying there is a "wave formation benefit" from having a sub fire to the rear as opposed to firing directly into the cabin? I've read that it's preferable to fire to the rear rather than towards the cabin, but am having trouble finding comparisons of firing to the rear vs firing directly INTO the cabin (like the factory sub does).

best to test, but i can say that i've tested exactly this (and more) in my 2014. Both sealed and vented, using good equipment, and the result is the same as any other car.

firing forward behind the rear seat (without sealing it off) is like adding midbass because you get destructive interference off the rear of the trunk.

firing rearward behind the rear seat results in a boomy and inaccurate response. while this may be great for bass without a care for accuracy, it's mainly done because it's easy and loud. the reflection off the rear causes a high-Q response filter.

rear deck sealed off (up or down) is accurate and done in many SQ competition-winning rides. it's a ton of permanent work.

rear corner (firing into the trunk or into the corner) has none of the disadvantages of the above three, but provides coherent reflections and offers the longest wave development with minimum phase interference.

 

[TMVB]

best to test, but i can say that i've tested exactly this (and more) in my 2014. Both sealed and vented, using good equipment, and the result is the same as any other car.

firing forward behind the rear seat (without sealing it off) is like adding midbass because you get destructive interference off the rear of the trunk.

firing rearward behind the rear seat results in a boomy and inaccurate response. while this may be great for bass without a care for accuracy, it's mainly done because it's easy and loud. the reflection off the rear causes a high-Q response filter.

rear deck sealed off (up or down) is accurate and done in many SQ competition-winning rides. it's a ton of permanent work.

rear corner (firing into the trunk or into the corner) has none of the disadvantages of the above three, but provides coherent reflections and offers the longest wave development with minimum phase interference.

As usual, you've provided the exact answer I was looking for.

Rear corner sounds like the way to go then. And while I'll lose some trunk space, it will be less than what I'm losing now (current box is 0.75 cuft - custom will be 0.625 cuft) and it won't be a big box sitting in the middle of the trunk.

I think I'm going to tackle the fiberglass box build this weekend.

 

[Mike M]

best to test, but i can say that i've tested exactly this (and more) in my 2014. Both sealed and vented, using good equipment, and the result is the same as any other car.

firing forward behind the rear seat (without sealing it off) is like adding midbass because you get destructive interference off the rear of the trunk.

firing rearward behind the rear seat results in a boomy and inaccurate response. while this may be great for bass without a care for accuracy, it's mainly done because it's easy and loud. the reflection off the rear causes a high-Q response filter.

rear deck sealed off (up or down) is accurate and done in many SQ competition-winning rides. it's a ton of permanent work.

rear corner (firing into the trunk or into the corner) has none of the disadvantages of the above three, but provides coherent reflections and offers the longest wave development with minimum phase interference.

I'm glad you have tested this - that is bar far the best way to determine the best placement.

I think with the small space requirements building a fiberglass enclosure that fits into the corner won't take up much usable space (obviously some will go, but not a huge amount).

 

[Mike M]

firing rearward behind the rear seat results in a boomy and inaccurate response. while this may be great for bass without a care for accuracy, it's mainly done because it's easy and loud. the reflection off the rear causes a high-Q response filter.

I'm also going to guess not many people have any idea what you mean by high Q response. :grin

 

[TMVB]

if you ever want my input on something, just shoot me a PM. i also happily share my number to chat about ideas and concepts.

Very much appreciated. I still have your number from the last time you helped me. Building the fiberglass enclosure looks pretty straightforward.

So my list of things to do looks like this:

1. Build corner sub enclosure.
2. Build amp shelf and get a cleaner looking installation under the back deck. It's just plain ugly right now
3. Seal front doors and speakers.
4. Consider replacing the Polk db3501 with something better - only after I've finished all of the above.
5. Wait until after CES to see what new touchscreen displays are being introduced and maybe a new adapter kit. Not holding my breath on a new adapter (Metra or PAC) so will likely just relocate the factory HU. Will definitely touch base with you before I tackle that.

 

[Lashlee]

I know when I worked in the business that CES debuts were usually shipped around the March/April time frame, so be prepared to wait.

 

[it8ezbngrn]

If I had the time and skills I would of did a custom fiberglass corner mount and mounted my amp under the rear deck. Since I was looking for more of a turn key solution I went with the JL micro 8 and a 500/1. Its not the best solution but its one that most people could do themselves with a small budget and not lose much space or have the wife or anyone else who pops the trunk notice.
What I'd like to do is run a 5 channel amp and a signal processor. I was just happy that I didn't have any ANC issues with this simple setup. I usually buy cars with standard radios so I don't have to deal with all this integrated BS. I like to be able to run the head unit of my choosing.

 

[Elias]

Alright I am reviving this 3 year old thread. :banana:

I drive a 2013 EX-L Coupe V6.

I currently have 2 10" subs in a box in the trunk. The amp is attached to the box. They sound good but I probably don't need both. I was thinking to try and save space and weight I may try to cut a hole big enough for one of my subs in the deck. Then I could probably attach the amp to the back seat or try to hide it somewhere.

My questions are, has anyone tried installing a 10" sub where their factory 8" sub was and does anyone see any problems with this?

Thanks!