[gunpowder]

hellow guyz,

i am kind a new in here, with a question, will be appreciated for your kind answer.

I have a 2005 honda accord with 2.4L standard. It has 2,20,000km, i just bought it couple of months ago. I was looking to change the spark plugs and wondering how do i know they have been changed previously or not?

And one more thing, i found the spark plugs in the following website, snapshot attached. Will you please suggest me which one should i go with?

thanks in advance.

take care.

 

[CJKaz]

From the FAQ at the top of page:

Spark Plug - Every 110K (I4), Every 105K (V6)
I4 - 9807B-56A7W (NGK IZFR6K13) / 9807B-56A5W (Denso SKJ20DR-M13)

Available locally, very popular cars.

If you have no maintenance records, assume they are old. Simple job to replace. Be sure to check the gap, I just replaced them (at night) didn't see that one electrode was bent (dropped ?), instantly gave rough idle & eventually a check engine code.

 

[2006accord4]

Only buy the NGK or Denso above. No other brands are recommended.

 

[gunpowder]

thanks guyz for your answer. I will go with the NGK.

One more thing, since it has already 220k KM on this, how do i know spark plugs been changed recently or not? or its just better to change them....?

 

[RickBlaine]

You can always remove them, take close up pictures, and post here for an evaluation....if they've only been used for 5,000 miles, they will actually look new- no brown "crowning" on the white part of the plug.

 

[cintocrunch]

Honestly it's cheap and easy enough to just replace them and not spend any time thinking about whether they have been replaced.

 

[Drew03Accord]

thanks guyz for your answer. I will go with the NGK.

One more thing, since it has already 220k KM on this, how do i know spark plugs been changed recently or not? or its just better to change them....?

Aside from looking spanking new (Rick Blaine's comment), you really can't tell.

Being a new owner, you'd want to be safe and go with peace of mind. Be aware that once you pull them, the crush washer is already depressed and the original antiseize coating on the threads may be stripped off. So, if you put them back iin (not suggesting), I'd add a little antiseize and be very careful with the torque.

Might as well go ahead and put your location and car info in your signature.

 

[gunpowder]

Aside from looking spanking new (Rick Blaine's comment), you really can't tell.

Being a new owner, you'd want to be safe and go with peace of mind. Be aware that once you pull them, the crush washer is already depressed and the original antiseize coating on the threads may be stripped off. So, if you put them back iin (not suggesting), I'd add a little antiseize and be very careful with the torque.

Might as well go ahead and put your location and car info in your signature.

bro can you please tell me what is the torque amount? will there be any problem if i tight it a bit more? cause, i opened one of the spark plugs to see the model and when i put it back again i just have used the wrench and tighten up with hands. so not sure about the torque that i gave.

will be waiting for your answer. thanks

 

[2006accord4]

No torque gauge is needed. Hand tightened is better. I have a digital torque wrench that will go down to the specs but it is overkill and I didn't even use it on mine.

 

[RickBlaine]

bro can you please tell me what is the torque amount? will there be any problem if i tight it a bit more? cause, i opened one of the spark plugs to see the model and when i put it back again i just have used the wrench and tighten up with hands. so not sure about the torque that i gave.

will be waiting for your answer. thanks

1) No need to wait, you can search!
2) Yes, there will be a problem if you tighten it more than what you should. Define "bit".
3) If you are not sure about torque, spend $10 and get a torque wrench.

No torque gauge is needed. Hand tightened is better. I have a digital torque wrench that will go down to the specs but it is overkill and I didn't even use it on mine.

2006accord4- I "could" agree, but OP sounds like he is new to this. Until you've done a bunch of spark plugs and instinctively "know" the feel of a properly tightened spark plug, ALWAYS use a torque wrench. They are $10. Newbies AND regular wrenchers can, have, and will continue to strip their plugs. Take the guess work out and use a torque wrench. Every few months there is a post here from someone who admitted over-tightening their spark plugs without a torque wrench.

I do believe BLCKFLSH once stated something like "hand-tighten + 1/4 turn" or something like that.....if you do it w/o a torque wrench. To each their own....me? I spent the $10 and don't worry. My (rambling) point is that different plugs have different torque settings, and the torque setting changes (as mentioned by Drew above) if you take them out and re-use them. The rating changes if you have anti-seize or not.

 

[cintocrunch]

To further Rick's comments and reiterate, if you plan on doing any work on cars, one of your first tools needs to be a good ft-lb and a good in-lb torque wrench. DO IT!

 

[2006accord4]

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=79526&postcount=8
Torque value is 13 ft lbs.

 

[Drew03Accord]

No torque gauge is needed. Hand tightened is better. I have a digital torque wrench that will go down to the specs but it is overkill and I didn't even use it on mine.

I personally never use a torque wrench on plugs but I've changed so many that I can say that with ease. If adding antiseize (I always do, new plugs or not), it does change the amount of effort.... as Rick says below. That's what would make me hesitate with a torque wrench. Gently hand-tightened so they are nicely snug, is what I usually do.

The rating changes if you have anti-seize or not.

bro can you please tell me what is the torque amount? will there be any problem if i tight it a bit more? cause, i opened one of the spark plugs to see the model and when i put it back again i just have used the wrench and tighten up with hands. so not sure about the torque that i gave.

will be waiting for your answer. thanks

Sorry man, I'm a slave to the clock. Just saw this but you already have your answer, I think. To avoid any confusion. Buy new plugs and use a torque wrench without antiseize. If you don't, remember SNUG, not gorilla.

 

[gunpowder]

1) No need to wait, you can search!
2) Yes, there will be a problem if you tighten it more than what you should. Define "bit".
3) If you are not sure about torque, spend $10 and get a torque wrench.



2006accord4- I "could" agree, but OP sounds like he is new to this. Until you've done a bunch of spark plugs and instinctively "know" the feel of a properly tightened spark plug, ALWAYS use a torque wrench. They are $10. Newbies AND regular wrenchers can, have, and will continue to strip their plugs. Take the guess work out and use a torque wrench. Every few months there is a post here from someone who admitted over-tightening their spark plugs without a torque wrench.

I do believe BLCKFLSH once stated something like "hand-tighten + 1/4 turn" or something like that.....if you do it w/o a torque wrench. To each their own....me? I spent the $10 and don't worry. My (rambling) point is that different plugs have different torque settings, and the torque setting changes (as mentioned by Drew above) if you take them out and re-use them. The rating changes if you have anti-seize or not.

thanks for your help.

btw where did you get the torque wrench in 10bucks? no where i found less than 70-100$....

 

[2006accord4]

http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torue-wrench-61276.html
Torque range: 5-80 ft. lbs.

Here is a cheapo tw.

 

[BLCKFLSH]

From the FAQ at the top of page:

Spark Plug - Every 110K (I4), Every 105K (V6)
I4 - 9807B-56A7W (NGK IZFR6K13) / 9807B-56A5W (Denso SKJ20DR-M13)

Available locally, very popular cars.

If you have no maintenance records, assume they are old. Simple job to replace. Be sure to check the gap, I just replaced them (at night) didn't see that one electrode was bent (dropped ?), instantly gave rough idle & eventually a check engine code.

The numbers for the spark plugs, for most Accords, is 11 at the end, not 13. The number 13 is for California SULEV cars I believe. If you have the owner's manual, check the number there. Advance auto usually has the NGK plugs for $9.99 each. You should not have to adjust the gap. If you do, be very careful because the iridium tips can break.

 

[CJKaz]

Good catch, bet the author of the FAQ thread is from California? The parts counter person will look it up and give a series of alternates. I went NGK, but pulled Bosch 4 electrode plugs out. It was running fine with them.
Some cars are more sensitive to the plug design. My Audi refused to start with single electrode plugs in it (NGK). Granted it was very cold (single digit), but surprised me.

For the origin poster, be sure to have the proper spark plug socket and an extension to reach down the plug hole. Recommend a locking extension or at least align the ball on the extension with the hole in the side of the socket. If the socket stays on the plug when you pull it out, it can be a challenge to retrieve. You can take the rubber holder out of the socket when installing the new plugs, but be sure not to drop the plug out of the socket when installing down the hole. A rubber hose to start the threads is a good trick if you don't have a good locking socket.

Follow the torque recommendation on the box. These have a crush washer as discussed, tighten to the angle shown on the box.

 

[gunpowder]

The numbers for the spark plugs, for most Accords, is 11 at the end, not 13. The number 13 is for California SULEV cars I believe. If you have the owner's manual, check the number there. Advance auto usually has the NGK plugs for $9.99 each. You should not have to adjust the gap. If you do, be very careful because the iridium tips can break.

I am located in Fort Mcmurray, Alberta, Canada not is USA.

 

[CJKaz]

Some rough weather up there, spent some time at the Suncor tar sands plant. Quite an operation. Rugged bunch of workers!

 

[BLCKFLSH]

I am located in Fort Mcmurray, Alberta, Canada not is USA.

Unless your car has "California" emissions, use these plugs. NGK IZFR6K11 (not the NGK IZFR6K13). The engine would probably run just fine with the 13 plugs, but I would get the 11.