[fastv8]

I am getting tired of replacing lower ball joints - I am on my second set of Moogs now. The first set only lasted about 11k miles before they started creaking/squawking. I may as well have just installed Valucraft from AutoZone to save me the hassle of shipping the worn Moogs back.

Two questions for those with experience:
a) Is there an aftermarket lower ball joint that's as good as Honda? Someone in another thread mentioned Sankei
b) Is it safe to press a Honda (non-serrated) ball joint into a steering knuckle that's had two aftermarket (serrated) ball joints in it?

With b) in mind, I am seriously starting to consider acquiring replacement steering knuckles for both sides and using only Honda ball joints.

My recommendation to anyone reading this - do not use aftermarket ball joints. If you put a lot of miles on your car, you'll thank me later.

 

[t-rd]

This is another case of sucky Moog ball joints, that's why I've been recommending OEM only. You should know what's been going on with the Moog lower ball joints on the 3G TL, they FAIL miserably. No castle nut, so no cotter pin. One guy installed one, next day, front end fell off onto the ground, causing $3500 of damage.

If you've pressed in Moog ball joints, which has those grooves on the side, then the cast iron most likely already expanded. Sakei, 555 brand supposedly is good but I have not used it myself and I can't find them at my local stores. I decided to spend $120 on another set of OEM lower ball joints when I had a shop change them out 60k miles ago, still in perfect working condition. After all, my original OEM set were on there for 9 years/208k miles.

You can get new knuckles but they are expensive, try to find used ones still have OEM ball joints in there, press out old then press in new. The only ball joint I have that's aftermarket is the Moog outer tie rod with the grease fitting, they work fine. I have everything else OEM including the inner tie rods.

 

[fastv8]

This is another case of sucky Moog ball joints, that's why I've been recommending OEM only.

If you've pressed in Moog ball joints, which has those grooves on the side, then the cast iron most likely already expanded. Sakei, 555 brand supposedly is good but I have not used it myself and I can't find them at my local stores. I decided to spend $120 on another set of OEM lower ball joints when I had a shop change them out 60k miles ago, still in perfect working condition. After all, my original OEM set were on there for 9 years/208k miles.

You can get new knuckles but they are expensive, try to find used ones still have OEM ball joints in there, press out old then press in new. The only ball joint I have that's aftermarket is the Moog outer tie rod with the grease fitting, they work fine. I have everything else OEM including the inner tie rods.

I could not agree more about using genuine Honda for the ball joints!

The question is whether it's safe to put in Honda after installing the Moogs (which have probably widened the hole somewhat). Can anyone answer this?

 

[03LXV6]

I installed Honda ball joints over a year ago after my Moogs failed in short time as well. No issues yet.

 

[fastv8]

I installed Honda ball joints over a year ago after my Moogs failed in short time as well. No issues yet.

Thanks for the reply. I am also looking at BECK/ARNLEY 1016526 as one of the reviewers on Amazon said that he received Sankei. This part includes a retaining clip which allays some of my concern about the widened hole.

 

[enne]

I am getting tired of replacing lower ball joints - I am on my second set of Moogs now. The first set only lasted about 11k miles before they started creaking/squawking.

Quick question. Which Moog ball joints did you get? There are 2 grades of Moog parts. The info below is about control arms but it's the same general principle.

Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com

CK (K): MOOG PROBLEM SOLVER
Starting with the CK and K. Whether you see a “K” designation or a “CK” designation, you are getting the same part. The CK and K are Moogs Premium line of control arms.

RK: MOOG R SERIES
The RK series is a more value driven part.
(RK parts may not have Moog branding on the box or part.)

 

[salcuta]

Moog joints are the same design as the other crappy ones, Valuecraft, Duralas, etc. They all look the same, and I'm thinking that they're made in the same line.

I have the Sankei joint and everything is still ok 18k miles later. They are made in Japan and look just like the Honda OEM ones.

I've seen numerous failures on the facebook group. Most using cheap joints.

 

[fastv8]

Quick question. Which Moog ball joints did you get? There are 2 grades of Moog parts. The info below is about control arms but it's the same general principle.

Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com

CK (K): MOOG PROBLEM SOLVER
Starting with the CK and K. Whether you see a “K” designation or a “CK” designation, you are getting the same part. The CK and K are Moogs Premium line of control arms.

RK: MOOG R SERIES
The RK series is a more value driven part.
(RK parts may not have Moog branding on the box or part.)

I have used K80228, a "premium" part and it was just as bad as Valucraft (which I used once on the driver's side).

 

[fastv8]

Moog joints are the same design as the other crappy ones, Valuecraft, Duralas, etc. They all look the same, and I'm thinking that they're made in the same line.

I have the Sankei joint and everything is still ok 18k miles later. They are made in Japan and look just like the Honda OEM ones.

I've seen numerous failures on the facebook group. Most using cheap joints.

@salcuta Where did you get the Sankei joint from? I don't see it at Rockauto which is my normal go-to. Thanks.

 

[salcuta]

I got it off Amazon, which specified that it was made in Japan by Sankei. You can't buy a Sankei brand name joint. They sell under various brand names too. I got the one that was sold by Beck Arnley. Here's the one you need on Rock Auto.

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1016526

OEM are about 75 bucks on Amazon. If you can afford it, go OEM. If not, the one by Sankei is your next best choice.

 

[fastv8]

I got it off Amazon, which specified that it was made in Japan by Sankei. You can't buy a Sankei brand name joint. They sell under various brand names too. I got the one that was sold by Beck Arnley. Here's the one you need on Rock Auto.

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1016526

OEM are about 75 bucks on Amazon. If you can afford it, go OEM. If not, the one by Sankei is your next best choice.

Thanks! I greatly appreciate the insight.

 

[chris918]

Lol I learned that 10 years ago

 

[stiller fan]

I am getting tired of replacing lower ball joints - I am on my second set of Moogs now. The first set only lasted about 11k miles before they started creaking/squawking. I may as well have just installed Valucraft from AutoZone to save me the hassle of shipping the worn Moogs back.

Two questions for those with experience:
a) Is there an aftermarket lower ball joint that's as good as Honda? Someone in another thread mentioned Sankei
b) Is it safe to press a Honda (non-serrated) ball joint into a steering knuckle that's had two aftermarket (serrated) ball joints in it?

With b) in mind, I am seriously starting to consider acquiring replacement steering knuckles for both sides and using only Honda ball joints.

My recommendation to anyone reading this - do not use aftermarket ball joints. If you put a lot of miles on your car, you'll thank me later.

I try to use honda parts where I can.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320AZ using Tapatalk

 

[neilh]

lower ball joints

Sankei 555 W0133-1979030 for 03-07 accord. they are hondas oem supplier. do a search in your browsers web address line. about 38 bucks vs. 75 for honda oem

 

[t-rd]

I never really understood the "value" line of parts. Does it degrade value of your vehicle after you install it? YES. I would install a value line part if I drive like a grandma, but I don't. I don't wish my front end falling off unexpectedly.

Check out the thread on 3G TL's crashing onto ground using the Moog ball joint:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-...ires-wheels-suspension-97/fyi-aftermarket-moog-balljoint-k500117-beware-805131/

 

[fastv8]

I never really understood the "value" line of parts. Does it degrade value of your vehicle after you install it? YES. I would install a value line part if I drive like a grandma, but I don't. I don't wish my front end falling off unexpectedly.

Check out the thread on 3G TL's crashing onto ground using the Moog ball joint:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-...ires-wheels-suspension-97/fyi-aftermarket-moog-balljoint-k500117-beware-805131/

Moog did not used to be a "value" brand. Their products had a good reputation but sadly, that is no longer the case. The ball joint as supplied by Moog for the 2003-07 Accord does have a castle nut and cotter pin. I can also see that despite how much play that there is in the worn ball joint, there is little to no chance of separation.

I am going to follow the advice from earlier and get Sankei ball joints, especially considering that they manufacture for Honda and are substantially cheaper.

 

[KW2004Accord]

Where are Moog parts made? The answer may surprise you! - Suspension.com

 

[fastv8]

Where are Moog parts made? The answer may surprise you! - Suspension.com

That's marginally better because I was expecting China.

 

[t-rd]

I understand the Moog ball joint for 7th gen Accord has a castle nut + cotter pin, why? Because I have a new pair NOT INSTALLED in my living room! haha! I had read some comments here then decided to ditch them completely. The problem is Moog's build quality now. They can't get the 3G TL ball joint right, if you read into that thread, a guy had spent $60 on a front lower pair because he didn't want to pay $120+ for an Acura/Honda pair thinking he was saving money, then he ended up with $3500 in damages the next day. I don't have problem Moog's straight control arms for the rear, or the outer tie rods, I just wouldn't use their lower ball joints. The key seems to be a metal ball in a metal socket. The OEM design has a metal ball in a plastic socket. Metal ball in metal socket should always be a grease-able ball joint, like their outer tie rod and the front upper ball joint. But because of the design of this car, the lower ball joint isn't grease-able due to the cv axle being in the way, so they should stick with a metal ball in plastic socket design.

And there SHOULDN'T BE a value line of critical suspension parts, there just shouldn't. It's an accident waiting to happen. You are better off riding on worn OEM ball joint until you save up enough to buy another OEM pair.

Let me remind everyone what happens when a lower ball joint fails. This was right by my house, the whole hub got knocked off also.

 

[derass]

Only using OEM balljoints on Hondas should be knowledge that's handed over with the keys when people buy them. I can't even count have many Hondas I've seen crapped out in the middle of the road, with their front suspension dangling out to the side. It's even see it happen one friend's Integra, and another's TSX.