Honda Accord Forums - The DriveAccord community is where Honda Accord 2003+ owners can discuss reviews, service, parts, and share mods. banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

blkcoupe808

· Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Reaction score
36
Location
Dallas, TX
Discussion starter · #1 ·
i decided to install the short-ram cold air intake i had on my 90 CRX, onto my 2003 Accord LX V6, because i realised it would fit perfectly, i was'nt worried about the installation, cause i have done it in the past on my CRX and stuff with no problems.

i watched a youtube video of someone removing the stock intake and installing an aftermarket short-ram intake, and i read installation steps for installing an AEM cold air intake also for a 2003 accord V6, and understood everything before doing it.

i removed the stock air box and intake tube, but not the resonator, disconnected the breather hose from the engine and where it went to the stock intake tube, but left the coolant hose connected, which is attached alongside the breather hose, which i left un-connected to anything, just hanging there, since its attached as one piece to the coolant hose, and i just connected the breather hose that came with the CRX intake from the engine and to the intake tube and made sure it was tight, and i tightened the bandclamps where the intake went to the throttle body and where the cone filter attached to the end of the intake pipe, and i was done.

i started the car up, let idel a couple minutes, and went to start driving, and it would'nt accelerate ?, the car moved forward at a slow pace, but not from pressing the gas pedal, it felt as though it was on "auto-pilot" mode or something?, similar to when you're at a stoplight and let go of the brake pedal, and the car moves forward by itself slowly.

now i need to figure out whats causing this problem ???

any thoughts on what it may be would be helpfull,

heres some pics of the intake install : (i edited them brighter to see more detail)

Image


Image


Image
 
Where's the mass air flow sensor?
 
  • Like
Reactions: OCtoLV702
Discussion starter · #3 ·
is it possible its cause i did'nt let it "RE-LEARN THE IDLE"?,

did i supposed to disconnect the battery and connect it back and start the car and let it idle for 10-15 minutes, while not touching the gas pedal ??? cause i started it up and only let it idle a few minutes and drove off, and thats it.

i can't think of what else would cause it to not accelerate ?

i was pretty carefull, but i can double-check to see if i accidentally disconnected anything such as MAF sensor or other connectors ?

one thing i did'nt understand on the short-ram air intake install videos i saw, they disconnected the coolant hose, which is attached to the breather hose assembly, and said you need to route both hoses and connect to the single nipple on the intake ?, but i did'nt understand how you would be able to connect two hoses to one single nipple ?, unless they were like a "Y" hose ?

i did'nt think i needed to do anything with the coolant hose, and thought i just needed to only connect the breather hose from the engine to the intake hose, cause thats how it was installing the intake on the CRX, does that sound correct ?

as i understand it, i thought that the coolant hose was a seperate thing altogether than the breather hose thats attached to it ?, and that it was fine as long as the breather hose was connected from the engine to the aftermarket intake tube, and left the coolant hose connected how it was ?

any thoughts on what it may be would be helpfull,

hopefully its something small i can fix quickly, because i am scheduled to work tomorrow at 11am doing delivery for GrubHub.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
i thought the Mass Air Flow sensor was that black thing on the very top of the throttle body ?, or at least i thought thats what it said it was while looking at a parts diagram off Majestic Honda website?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
no, i did'nt mess with the throttle body, i might of just pressed in on the throttle plate just to feel if it was lined up when it went back closed, but really all i did was remove the stock intake tube, and disconnected the breather hose completely, leaving the coolant hose attached, and connected a different hose from the engine to the new intake tube i put on, but i did'nt do anything to any of those wirelooms or sensor looking things around the throttle body, unless i knocked one by mistake?, i'm hoping it was just that i did'nt disconnect the battery and start it up and let it re-learn the idle and let it run 10-15minutes,

really i am still learning about these 2003 model accords, cause i just got the car in august 2015, which to me are a lot newer than what i've been used to having, cause since 91 i've only had 3 different CRX's, and only know about working on them mostly, but when i install an intake on the CRX, it would still accelerate afterward, even if i did'nt disconnect/re-connect the battery and let it RE-LEARN the idle, but it was just better to do that so it adjusted itself so it worked best with it, but i'm not sure, the newer accord might be different and not work at all if you don't let it RE-LEARN the idle ?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
i did'nt see a sensor connected to the air tube ? i only saw one hole on the stock air tube, which the breather hose went to, and other than that, it just had that hook thing which was for holding a small wire loom in place on top of it.

are'nt all the sensors around and on the throttle body mostly ? i'm looking at a pic right now of a stock engine bay of a 2003 accord V6 and thats all i see ?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
i saw this on a post off this forum :

The 4 cyl has a MAF sensor
The V6 has a MAP sensor

The gen7 03-07 v6 does not have the MAF sensor
The gen7 i4 03 and some 04 don't have the MAF
From late 04-07 i4 they have the MAF

i4: ULEV = MAP
SULEV = MAP and MAF
V6: ULEV = MAP
so, i guess mine does'nt have a MAF (mass air flow) sensor ?, and just has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor ? also mine is a 2003 ULEV LX V6, and it says ULEV has MAP too.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
and it says the MAP sensor is the black thing on top of the throttle body, not on the intake tube or air box. and the intake temp sensor is on the front side of the throttle body. but i will check to make sure nothing is loose or disconnected, plus i will try disconnect and reconnect battery and let it idle so it can "RE-LEARN" and adjust itself, and see if that fixes it?

other than that, the only thing i am totally not sure of (even after looking all around google), is about that coolant hose thats attached to the breather hose as one piece ?,
and are those just seperate hoses that are just attached together alongside one another ?, or do they work together as one somehow ? i did see one person disconnect the coolant hose and breather hose all together, and then they put a new hose for each of them seperately, but i would'nt see why i would need to do that ?, unless that disconnected breather hose that is left dangling while attached to the coolant hose affects something some way ??? i don't know
 
If you are revving the engine and the engine RPM isn't going up, then you disconnected the drive-by-wire sensor wire going to the throttle body.

And to be honest, you aren't gaining anything with a setup like that. That filter is going to get cooked in the engine bay in no time exposed. Add to that, you didn't remove the resonator so you aren't getting much fresh cooler air from outside. If you want to stick with this setup, then remove the resonator and snake a dryer hose to the front lower portion of the bumper to get cool air.
 
It sounds like the throttle-body is unplugged. Check engine light on?
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobbo
Ok, I may be wrong, but by looking at the 3rd picture, on the right side of your throttle body, the cable seems to be disconnected, (or coming apart).
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
tr-d,

yeah, when i rev the engine, it does'nt go up raising the RPM's, cause i remember thats kind of the first thing i did, cause i wanted to see how it sounded when revving it up high, but right away i noticed i could'nt ?, and it stayed low in the RPM, and felt weird, like when you put it into drive, and press the gas, it just starts coasting forward at a slow, gradual pace, as if its doing it by itself ?, and pressing the gas only makes it accelerate just a tiny bit and not much at all, but luckily it drove enough to get me back home, because i installed the intake at a carwash stall thats close to my neighborhood.

when you said i probably disconnected the "drive-by-wire sensor wire" going to the throttle body, where is it located exactly ? i heard if your car has drive-by-wire, that the throttle body has a black thing attached to it, otherwise it would have a cable if it were a cable type activated throttle, but i don't know where the drive-by-wire wire is at ? i googled it in images but could'nt find anything.

i did'nt think i was going to gain much with putting that cheap intake on it, i was just curious to try it out to see how it was and if it had a more sporty sound, and also i think in a way, i was trying to think of a reason to work on the accord, cause i miss working on cars, like i did with my CRX, and i just got the accord in august 2015, but i am noticing that there is'nt much to do or work on with it, since it does'nt need anything done to it?, which is a good thing really, but i like to mess with and work on stuff on cars usually, and i just had an idea to take the intake off my CRX and measure it to see if it fit on the accord, and since i saw that it would fit, then i just thought i would put it on and see if it worked good or not.

actually the weird thing is, after having a cold air intake on my CRX for years, i wanted it to be more quiet, because i don't like it loud and attention getting, so i removed the intake and put the stock air box and resonator back on it, and also i figured the stock air intake system along with the resonator was all designed for a purpose too, but since putting it back on, i like it way better, its nice and quiet, and had better low-end torque than the open cone filter on the cold air intake, and with the CAI it sometimes bogged and stuff and just did'nt feel consistent, so because of that, i was'nt planning on removing the resonator on the accord, even know i realise what your saying, that its defeating the purpose of the cone filter and intake pipe i put on it to be able and get fresh air, so your saying its better off just putting the stock intake air box and tube back on, would it work better since its not exposed to the engine bay ?, and has the resonator tube going straight into the air box and directly into the intake tube to the throttle body, without letting any hot engine bay air into the path of the system ?
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
in the 3rd pic, your probably looking at the stock breather hose thats disconnected, cause it looks as though it connects right against the blue rubber coupler, when really the end is just resting there unattached, and the breather hose i put on connects to the intake pipe further down towards the middle on the right side, but turned slightly towards the bottom, its that hose that has a brownish color with a braided look to it.
 
I may have missed it but did you remove the CAI and put everything back together yet?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jimijam
Discussion starter · #19 ·
i was reading another post about someone having a check engine light after installing an aftermarket cold air intake and a guy replied saying :

"Hate to tell you the obvious, but I would remove that ebay junk and get some name brand CAI to fix your issue. If you recall, Fujita recalled their CAI for the V6 Accord due to CEL issue in almost every car that had it. Once they changed to Injen, AEM or Takeda, the CEL dissapears. The guys here on DA can chime in. A little R&D goes a long way, especially for sensitive instrument like the MAF on our Accords."

i'm kind of thinking thats really what my problem is, cause that intake i put on mine is a cheap ebay no-name brand i got for my CRX a while back, so it might just not work properly with the Accord's sensitive MAP or MAF sensor and air intake system electronics & emissions ?

but i thought as long as its the right size that fits in place and has a hole to connect the breather hose, that it was all that mattered ? and should work ? but maybe it has to be made specific to the model, cause this was not for the accord V6.

really, when i got the accord, i was'nt planning on doing any modifications to it, and just wanted it because its a more updated, practical, comfortable car with working A/C and with airbags, because my 90 CRX Si lacked those things, and it was'nt meant to be a car for me to mess around and work on like i did with my CRX all these years, so i need to stop myself before i start doing mods to it without even realizing it !, lol, thats what i kept my CRX for, so i can mess around and work on that one, but i don't need to be messing the accord up when its all good already.
 
What did you do with this plug I circled in the picture? That needs to be plugged into the side of the throttle body. It's a big plug also. Go pop your hood and check. Coming from a CRX, you are used to the old school throttle on cable setup. With drive-by-wire, there is no cable going directly from the pedal to the throttle body. There is no way engine is not revving, unless you disconnected that.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 34 Posts