[Hudouc]

So I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Ktuner End User Kit V1.2. Got it today and loaded tune 1. A quick drive around the block, my butt dyno actually felt no difference (how is this psychologically possible?!).

So I had to see if machines can tell a difference. The machines says there's no improvement in acceleration. I felt no difference in throttle response either. But I'm enjoying the 7400rpm rev limit.

Right now, all I have is a intake resonator delete. (I don't even have my K&N drop in filter installed rn).

I understand that because my car is bone stock, I shouldn't expect any significant gains. But shouldn't I have felt at least some difference?

PS: Feel free to roast me, or make fun of me. I'm just a little disappointed at spending $400+ and not feeling any difference with the car.

 

[jimijam]

What machines did you use to confirm?

 

[MrRangerZr1]

PS: Feel free to roast me, or make fun of me. I'm just a little disappointed at spending $400+ and not feeling anything.

The car or you is smoking something LOL

 

[Hudouc]

What machines did you use to confirm?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaHIUxGnZu0

Well, I still can't outrun that Decepticon that I found the other day. Car slow: Confirmed.:grin


I used a speedometer app. I know it's not nearly as good as a Vbox, but it is extremely consistent. And based on runs that I've done with the Camry, it should be quite accurate as well (nearly identical 0-60 time as the C&D result, repeatedly (all with in 0.05sec)).

 

[outersquare]

The included maps do not change throttle response. DBW tables are user defined. Are you using premium gas? You should definitely use a good clean air filter if you have not, even the DOE/EPA published a study saying very dirty filters kill power.

My data points are rusty now, but I picked up a couple tenths 0-60 from dead stock to listed bolt ons/ktuner. From 7.2s to 6.9s, using the same escort G meter, but this was several years apart. I can't speak to dead stock with reflash only. You must run all tests with VSA off, VSA kills launches and power.

One thing is per the Ktuner dynos, most of the gains are in high rpms. With the automatic, you only pass through that band once going 0-60, so any measured improvement will be small.

Sadly this happens even to OEMs, sometimes they add horsepower and it makes almost no difference. When the same gen miata went from 155 HP (2016-18) to 181 HP (2019), it only got .1-.4 seconds faster 0-60, as measured by actual publications. That's 26 HP that was in theory OEM rated.

https://fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/air_filter_effects_02_26_2009.pdf
https://www.motortrend.com/cars/mazda/miata/2019/2019-mazda-mx-5-miata-club-first-test-review/

 

[Hudouc]

The included maps do not change throttle response.

Are you using premium gas?

You should definitely use a good clean air filter if you have not, even the DOE/EPA published a study saying very dirty filters kill power.

That's my fault, I don't think I read about the throttle mapping before the tune.

Fresh tank of 93 (mixed with about 0.75 gallons of 87 left over from the last tank). I actually ran on this tank of 93 for two days before the tune.

Air filter is not new, but certainly is not dirty (Last checked about two weeks ago). I really need to make time to clean and re-oil my K&N to replace that paper interim filter.

I did ran with VSA on just because I ran with VSA on before the tune. Just trying to eliminate variables. I'm not looking for a best 0-60 number here, but rather the difference in 0-60.

I need to reassure myself that my decision was correct and the money was well spent.

 

[outersquare]

There's no point to testing with VSA on since that's the limiting factor. The ECU kills power the instant it detects wheelspin.

Edmunds has tons of tests on youtube with both traction control on/off and even they get laughable times out of good cars when traction control is on.

 

[08 v6/6]

K tuner base tune is not going to do much. And you need a lot of other mods to benefit from k tuner so they all work seamlessly with the car.

Simply adding a base tune ad 93 octane would be very minimal.

Why you would buy K tuner with no mods and no manual transmission is beyond me. The best part about K tuner is the ability to alter the drivability of the car with throttle response and fuel cut parameters.

Eventually you should get an actual dyno tune and that will make you power 100% just because they will take out fuel and lean out the fuel trim which increases tq and hp and also saves a lot on gas. But only do that once you are finished with the actual performance mods

 

[enne]

Why you would buy K tuner with no mods and no manual transmission is beyond me.

Eventually you should get an actual dyno tune and that will make you power 100% just because they will take out fuel and lean out the fuel trim which increases tq and hp and also saves a lot on gas. But only do that once you are finished with the actual performance mods

This was my question also, why tune a stock car? I thought you did mods first, then dyno/tune.

 

[Baldeagle]

So I finally decided to pull the trigger on a Ktuner End User Kit V1.2. Got it today and loaded tune 1. A quick drive around the block, my butt dyno actually felt no difference (how is this psychologically possible?!).

So I had to see if machines can tell a difference. The machines says there's no improvement in acceleration. I felt no difference in throttle response either. But I'm enjoying the 7400rpm rev limit.

Right now, all I have is a intake resonator delete. (I don't even have my K&N drop in filter installed rn).

I understand that because my car is bone stock, I shouldn't expect any significant gains. But shouldn't I have felt at least some difference?

PS: Feel free to roast me, or make fun of me. I'm just a little disappointed at spending $400+ and not feeling any difference with the car.

https://ktuner.com/0812accord/

According to Ktuner’s website, your 2.4-liter engine should have gained about 10hp and maybe 15 lbs-ft of torque. There seems to be a nice jump in mid-range torque. I’m surprised you could not feel that. The auto’s dyno had many other mods (RV6 PCD, HFC, Pulley, Intake, 3″ Exhaust), and looks like HP did not taper off as it approached 7,400 rpm. However, the EX-L manual’s dyno had only an intake and started to lose power after 6,500 rpm. If your auto uses a 7,400 rpm shift point, it could be taking the engine out of it’s torque curve and slowing acceleration. A 6,500 rpm shift point may be better for full throttle acceleration, but that won’t explain why the engine doesn’t have better throttle response. Also, a gain of 10 hp should improve a 0-60 time by no more than .2-.3 seconds. That is very hard to feel.

 

[Hudouc]

Why you would buy K tuner with no mods and no manual transmission is beyond me. The best part about K tuner is the ability to alter the drivability of the car with throttle response and fuel cut parameters.

This may be childish, but I had to tune the Accord because I can't stand the Camry being the faster one out of my two cars.

This was my question also, why tune a stock car? I thought you did mods first, then dyno/tune.

I knew that I wouldn't get the full benefit without any mods. But in my head, I was thinking that if I can feel a difference, or see a difference with Ktuner, then I would go "all out" with the mods. Since Ktuner is the cheaper one out of the lot.

Also, a gain of 10 hp should improve a 0-60 time by no more than .2-.3 seconds. That is very hard to feel.

But the thing is I didn't see the better acceleration through measurement either. I was hoping to shave about 0.1 sec with the tune. Since any more would be unrealistic without the mods.

 

[08 v6/6]

0.1 seconds could be hidden anywhere. I dunno why you are looking for such a minimal data to substantiate ktuner was the best first mod when it honestly is not. If you were manual trans you can get other benefits from ktuner and thus would make it a good first mod candidate.

But for you. First mod should have been J pipe. That is more power and sound than ktuner would give you and is basically the same price.

 

[outersquare]

That is not necessarily true for the I4, the V6 is a single cam with a fixed gear. The I4 is DOHC and VTC, there are more features on the I4 valvetrain to tune than the V6.

 

[khmlee]

I am a kinda noob with tuning. I have a 5MT ex-l with takeda sri + Rv6 downpipe-highflow and a skunk2 muffler that I'll remove soon. Will put back the original. I selected tune 2 basemap (intake+rv6+exhaust) on Ktuner, suceeded flashing and honestly I don't really feel any difference. Is that normal? the redline is higher tough, couldve go above 8000 on 2nd gear.

I did not touch any other parameters. I've been searching the whole day how to learn and use the ktuner v2.

Somebody help please.

 

[outersquare]

I'm surprised this is a recurring theme. My parents have two stock LX sedans I drive all the time, they are dogs compared to my modded and tuned coupe.

One thing is per ktuner website most of the gains are above 4500 rpm, you have to stand on the gas to really see the speed accumulate. So the thing is if you only drive say 0-60, you probably only pass that rpm range once. Also then, in city driving or stop and go, there won't be much benefit. But for roll on acceleration and open highways, there is definitely benefit.

08-12 Accord i4 ? KTuner, LLC

 

[Mr.Turbo]

Bottom line is no, your butt dyno will not be able to tell the difference of a few horsepower. If you want to validate your gains, go to a track or dyno.

 

[BackToHonda]

This may be childish, but I had to tune the Accord because I can't stand the Camry being the faster one out of my two cars.

How does your Accord compare to your (2018?) Camry?
Just wondering ..... the new Camry does look a lot better than the previous generations did, IMHO.
Last time I dove a Camry, it drove like a boat, but that was a long time ago (like, 20+ yrs). I assume things have changed ... how much did they?

 

[khmlee]

Okay, so with a ktuner v2+ SRI + downpipe + 91 octane gas,

1) what are the items that are important to monitor while driving and what should be the normal values?

go to ktuner website -> KTunerHelp/item_abbreviations.htm?ms=AAAA&st=MA%3D%3D&sct=MA%3D%3D&mw=MjQw]Item Abbreviations

2) Is it pertinent to modify the throttle response? or other items in the tune for rv6 downpipe+intake+exhaust. What value should I enter?

finally, what are the other relativily cheap mods I can do to have a bit more fun driving my 8th gen I4? pulleys, throttle body spacer, camshafts, exhaust, short shifter, etc? Does a short shifter solve the 1 to 2nd gear problem on high rpm?

For the exhaust though, I had few warnings because of my muffler that I'll remove on friday. I want to be discrete with the noise below 3-4k ish RPM and small acccelarations.

I am a complete beginner with tuning and willing to learn! All my mods came from reading here in the forums! Hope I am in the right forum/post. I don't have acces$ to dynos and I'll fix my VSA off switch too that only works once a while. BTW, it's kinda hard to test right the tune and stand gas with snow and ice every few days!

Also would like to beat all the other stock civic SI k20, k24, tsx, ilx XD

 

[Hudouc]

How does your Accord compare to your (2018?) Camry?
Just wondering ..... the new Camry does look a lot better than the previous generations did, IMHO.
Last time I dove a Camry, it drove like a boat, but that was a long time ago (like, 20+ yrs). I assume things have changed ... how much did they?

The Camry feels quicker, quieter, and rides very soft. Thing still body rolls like a boat even with the 18in wheels. However, the cornering grip is very good and handles quite well (although feels very disconnected).

 

[Hudouc]

Okay, I'm loosing my mind now...

Put the RV6 PCD & Test pipe on today. Uploaded tune 2, and........ felt no difference. Checked 0-60, exactly the same as before. (No, I didn't feel any difference in high RPM either)

The only difference is that the car now sounds raspy under load at above 3K. Occasionally, it randomly becomes even more raspy (or something is rattling). The car sounds kind of like a ricer now...

The only thing that I can think of now is finish porting and polishing my intake runner, and maybe build a custom exhaust. I'm not inclined to dump more money into this car since the last $1K had made little to no difference.

Summer tires are going back on tomorrow since I might go down to TN this week to drive the Tail of the Dragon, hope this will improve 0-60 since I can maybe brake torque it more.

Edit: Luckily, it looks like the PCD will pay for itself since I'm seeing a 3mpg improvement on this road trip so far. Drove it normally, floor it when needed.