[CDsDontBurn]

What is P1399? My car starting throwing this code and it's not in this CEL Codes thread. Anybody know what this is? THIS and THIS are the only threads I found with 1399 relating to the v6, but they're not anything solid on how to go about fixing the issue. The only thing I've gathered from the 1399 is that it's a random cylinder misfire code. My Accord has thrown specific and random mis-fire codes before, p0300 - p0306, but it has only happened due to the Heat Soak issue. HERE's another thread on the heat soak issue.

Outside of a possible spark plug or coil pack issue, I'm not finding any real solid leads on this code. I did find a couple other P1399 thread related codes, but they were for the i4.

As for what I am experiencing, my car will accelerate just fine from a stop as long as I keep the throttle under 2500 RPM. However, between 2500 RPM - 3000 RPM, she will vibrate and sputter and will have a lack of power between this specific range. Above 3000 RPM, all sputtering and vibrating goes away and power returns like normal. VTEC kicks in and she runs like she's supposed to. Driving on the freeway, I have to be driving at 2500 RPM or otherwise she'll just sputter and vibrate if I'm in that 2500 - 3000 RPM range.

Not sure if it matters, but she does need some TLC. I had been saving up to put in some TLC into my other car and spent that money earlier this week towards getting my other car done. I was hoping that my Accord wouldn't have any issues pop up as I can't spend money on both cars at the same time since money is a bit tight right now. But here's the TLC that my Accord will be receiving as soon as I can get the money for it:

• Spark plugs haven't been done in about 100k
• Valves need to be adjusted
• IM gasket needs to be replaced. I noticed some oil on it when I cleaned the EGR port a few months ago.
• Replace EGR valve. I'm also getting a p1491 code and I have cleaned out the EGR port a few months ago
• Replace IAC valve. I cleaned it a few months ago, but I don't think I did a good enough job of that so I want to replace it instead
• Replace valve cover gaskets. My car is leaking oil from here

Her TLC list is pretty long, but I'm not sure if doing all this will fix this new code or if it's related to something else. Will getting this TLC done on my Accord fix this new P1399 issue or could it be caused by something else?

 

[ea6bflyr]

Once you take care of your car, then the problem may be fixed. It may be as simple as taking your spark plugs out and cleaning them....until you can afford the $12-$15 to replace them. It could be the spark plug wires. Sounds like you car is having a hard time at high RPMs.

Typically that's a timing/ignition problem. Step 1. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter. Step 2. Have the coil and ICM tested.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

2000 and up, no wires, cap, or rotors. They have coil packs.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Update.

Earlier today I made a quick errand in town. Total drive was like 5 miles roundtrip. The whole time she was sputtering when sitting at a light and accelerating, and when maintaining speed.

 

[ea6bflyr]

If you continue to drive your car with it mis-firing, it may cause damage to your CAT. You really need to apply some TLC to your car. Have you pulled the plugs?

A guy on another Honda board figured out it was the ECM after doing a lot of troubleshooting.

Other issues might be a bad valve, bad crank position sensor, bad ring. Bad fuel mixture (clogged fuel injectors). Have you tested the compression of the cylinders to rule out bad rings or valves?

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I'm actually worried of driving either car at all this week until I get all this work done to them either of them. I just spent about $250 on my other car and don't have any extra to spend until the paycheck after this one. Thing is, I haven't done the work to the car yet since I'm still waiting on parts to come in and I won't be able to do any work on it until the weekend.

 

[ap116862004]

Sounds like EGR ports are clogged.
The EGR valve can also get clogged with carbon deposits that can make it sticky so it cant close.
The tune up can help also.
Before you adjust the valves change the spark plugs first to see if you get any good results. And if not check the valve clearance and adjust.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I'm thinking it's one of the TLC things I listed out that need to be done. Though, I'm not 100% sure.

One tool I would like to get though would be a 3/4in thick 12in. long flexible wire brush. That will give me the confidence that the EGR port is clean both on the intake manifold side as well as the engine block side.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I ended up doing the spark plugs today. Spent $60 on NGK Iridiums over at AutoZone for all 6 on my car. Not a bad deal at all. MUCH cheaper than the $15 per plug the stealership wanted for the basic NGK plugs.

Anyways, after removing the plugs, I found that 4 of 6 plugs had issues ranging from minor to non-operable. The other 2 plugs looked perfect and could go for another 50k miles at least before needing to be replaced.

Of the 4 plugs that had issues, 2 of them seemed pretty simple in the fact that they were likely not properly tightend and came up slightly as indicated by the markings on the threads of the plug and a small ring around the area of where porcelain meets threads area. 1 plug had the same markings as the 2 other plugs previously mentioned, but more severely marked. Additionally, the coil pack for this same plug appears to have had some thick orange build up gone on as i had to sand down the buildup. It looked like rust to be honest. And then there's the last plug. The last plug had literally been blown up. The firing pin and the landing pad (not sure if that's the technical term for that area of the spark plug) were just gone. About 1/4 of the threads were completely destroyed as well. Not only this, but the coil pack for this spark plug was also frayed pretty badly. I ended up replacing this coil pack as well which I picked up for $50 from AutoZone.

Needless to say, my Accord runs MUCH better. Even better than before the misfire started on Friday last week. I'm still in need to replace all the other stuff though: IM gaskets, valve cover gaskets, IACV, EGR, and do an EGR port cleaning as well.

 

[ea6bflyr]

So have you cleared the code? Has it come back?

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Didn't clear the code. I just let it run and she's still running great . And here are the pics I said I'd put up.

The bad coil pack

The plugs as they were pulled

The front 3 plugs. Middle one showing the odd orange build-up

The one that blew

 

[ea6bflyr]

I'd clear the code. It appears the mystery is solved.

 

[Kcovino87]

So i have the same ropblem u do im pretty sure its the shift solinoids bc i added some lucas transmission fluid it say helps renew old trans fluid my car actually stopped shaking and spuddering mine i look at the speed im going not the rpms myin used to spudder from 35 to 55 but it switched by itself one day and dident start shaking till 50 to 60-65 but if i floor it and when its like 3500 rpms while im going on the highway it spudders really bad form 60 to 70 i talked to someone who had the cls swap and they said all there accelerateimg problems went away im gettin that transmission soon ill let u know how it turns out i replaced almost everything on my car besides the trans and engine i have 185,000 on mine still runs string under 2200 rpms theat when its most solid up to 60 medium acceleration is fine

 

[CDsDontBurn]

My problem was engine related, not transmission related. You have a different issue all together. I know now that P1399 is an alternative code for "random misfire". P0300 is another code for "random misfire".

The issue I had was resolved by replacing the spark plugs and more specifically giving cylinder 2 a helix coil to fix the exploded threads when the old spark plug that was in it blew up.

 

[enne]

The one that blew

Yarg. I thought the ones in mine were bad when I pulled them...

 

[CDsDontBurn]

The irony about this is that I remember looking online to price out some spark plugs earlier in the week, as I was prepping to do some TLC on my car. Of course, when the blowing up of the one spark plug happened, it forced my hand to get the spark plugs done, lol.

 

[PattonTazz]

I bought a 2002 Accord 2.3l that turned out to have a bad valve. Bought reman head, had valve job done by pro,new injectors, new timing belt, cap, rotor, wires, plugs radiator, hoses, bled system, cleaned egr, still getting 1399 code and an occasional knock sensor low voltage but it goes away quickly.

Conditions. Sometimes if you shut it off and try and restart in about 10 minutes it it barely cranks, leave it an hour and a half fires off no problem.

Sometimes the idle is so low it almost dies, after driving a while it will go to 1800 for a few minutes then back down to 1000-1100(to high?) but idles smooth there. All of that is off dash tach so may be bogus numbers.

I get 1399 a lot, and some random this O2 high value that O2 low but they are all pending almost immediately and only viewable with the CAN OBDII tool.

Any ideas. Trying to fix for my daughters first car but about to throw a match on it and start with another car.

Oh and when I unplug the EGR nothing changes or happens. No lights, the EPA doesnt send a swat team, no change in motor, the sun still stands in the sky...........

 

[DatsunSaves]

Its funny that this happened to you because we both just replaced our timing sets, both have white 2000 coupes and we both just had the same code and the same issue. I replaced my plugs when I did the timing set. I was at a stop light the other day and dropped a coil pack. I had my suspicions of which one it was, and sure enough. $37 and a Beck & Arnley made in japan coil pack and I'm back on the road.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I bought a 2002 Accord 2.3l that turned out to have a bad valve. Bought reman head, had valve job done by pro,new injectors, new timing belt, cap, rotor, wires, plugs radiator, hoses, bled system, cleaned egr, still getting 1399 code and an occasional knock sensor low voltage but it goes away quickly.

Conditions. Sometimes if you shut it off and try and restart in about 10 minutes it it barely cranks, leave it an hour and a half fires off no problem.

Sometimes the idle is so low it almost dies, after driving a while it will go to 1800 for a few minutes then back down to 1000-1100(to high?) but idles smooth there. All of that is off dash tach so may be bogus numbers.

I get 1399 a lot, and some random this O2 high value that O2 low but they are all pending almost immediately and only viewable with the CAN OBDII tool.

Any ideas. Trying to fix for my daughters first car but about to throw a match on it and start with another car.

Oh and when I unplug the EGR nothing changes or happens. No lights, the EPA doesnt send a swat team, no change in motor, the sun still stands in the sky...........

Sounds like you may have a bad sensor somewhere, perhaps crank sensor? The swaying idle may likely be a bad IAC valve. The EGR port, was it cleaned at the valve as well as on the head and plenum passage?

Its funny that this happened to you because we both just replaced our timing sets, both have white 2000 coupes and we both just had the same code and the same issue. I replaced my plugs when I did the timing set. I was at a stop light the other day and dropped a coil pack. I had my suspicions of which one it was, and sure enough. $37 and a Beck & Arnley made in japan coil pack and I'm back on the road.

Referring to mine, or Patton?

 

[DatsunSaves]

Is there a 3rd member in the coincidence club?